engine and drivetrain Synthetic Oil Question-

[GregR]

Hey, I'm going to run synthetic oil in my engine that was recently rebuilt and the guy at Korman recommended 20w-50 full synthetic, but when I was out looking for some today all I would see was 0w-50 5w-30, 40, 50, mostly light stuff but nothing even close to 20w-50.

Anyone have any recommendations, or do I just need to look harder?

I have limited knowledge of synthetics except it costs about twice as much, lasts twice as long and does not break down like dino oils.

Thanks!

[c.d.iesel]

...if THE RINGS, PISTONS, CYLINDER BORES ARE 'NEW',

do not use synthetic oil during the first 1200 mile break-in.

Use 10w40 mineral oil only.

After 1200 miles, change the mineral oil and filter

and refill with 15w/50 MOBIL 1 or other synthetic oil

brand of your choice.

[Mike Self]

(nt)

[Jack]

Ray like Redline and it is available in 20-50.

[Mike87]

Have to 2nd that on Redline. Have been using it religiously for 10+ years. It is very good oil!

[GregR]

Have to 2nd that on Redline. Have been using it religiously for 10+ years. It is very good oil!

About how often do have you change it?

I've heard claims around 12k for some synthetics, but due to contaminates it seems like 5-6k would be better.

[02Nut]

Mobil 1 15W50 is now only available in "Extended Performance" - claimed to have a 15k change interval and it typically costs $1-2 more than "standard" Mobil 1.

As for other brands offering full synthetic 20W50 - Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline. I think I've also seen Valvoline & Castrol offering full synthetic 20/50 oil.

[Pinepig]

Have to 2nd that on Redline. Have been using it religiously for 10+ years. It is very good oil!

About how often do have you change it?

I've heard claims around 12k for some synthetics, but due to contaminates it seems like 5-6k would be better.

I run a synth in my Corrado ( mobile 1 ) I go 10k between changes but swap a new filter in at 5k and top off the oil. This seems to be the recomended practice if you are going for long oil change intervals.

[JayKehoe]

you will be fine to break in your bmw engine with dinosaur oil and then always use Mobil Syn. 15/50( I live in Nor Cal, so freezing is not a concern). But 15/50 is the recommended BMW oil for its new cars. Amsoil is good stuff, hard to find, expensive to buy, and heavy to order. But, if you want that elixer, ( good stuff), buy it and do your own oil changes. Shops do not like outside parts/liquids/anything brought by patrons for jobs. 1) The shop cannot guarantee the quality/integrity of ouside products, and 2), independent shops make part of their overhead using quality in-house provided products. Try bringing a gallon and a bit of oil to a BMW Dealer Service Department and insisting it be used in your covered vehicle. I do not think the service manager will alow it: violation of some cosmic BMW law. Costco has Mobil 15/50 in stock sometimes by the case: that is what you want to hunt for . You can save a bundle and just go to any site and buy some filtlers and have the piece of mind and the personal pride that your car is running on the right juice at the right time for about 10 bucks, and you did the work!.Dispose of the old oil at any auto shop for a nominal fee.

[jimk]

When I had a turbo on my 02, I ran Amsoil 10W-40 for 12,000 miles and sent to a lab for analysis. Report came back stating good for continued service. Today I use Amsoil European Blend 5W-40. Never saw the need for 20W-50 as it robs fuel economy and overheats the rod bearings.

Besides 5W-50 is too much of a good thing (VI improvers. And is no wonder the big one can't warrantee it for more than 15K, the VI improvers crap out).

[GregR]

...if THE RINGS, PISTONS, CYLINDER BORES ARE 'NEW',

do not use synthetic oil during the first 1200 mile break-in.

Use 10w40 mineral oil only.

After 1200 miles, change the mineral oil and filter

and refill with 15w/50 MOBIL 1 or other synthetic oil

brand of your choice.

When I had a turbo on my 02, I ran Amsoil 10W-40 for 12,000 miles and sent to a lab for analysis. Report came back stating good for continued service. Today I use Amsoil European Blend 5W-40. Never saw the need for 20W-50 as it robs fuel economy and overheats the rod bearings.

Besides 5W-50 is too much of a good thing (VI improvers. And is no wonder the big one can't warrantee it for more than 15K, the VI improvers crap out).

In Dallas winters we generally see a lot of 40° weather with occasional freezes and in summertime 100° is common and there can be 105° stretches, what would be a wise choice as far as synthetic oil grade is concerned in these climates?

[JohnW]

I've been using Mobil 1 15w-50 for a few years in the 2002. Does it offer superior protection? Hell if I know. I've had great luck with dino oil over the years, having run several cars past the 200k mile mark with no engine problems. But, with the 2002 and my 318, the synthetic oil just makes each car feel smoother, both at idle and while revving in the 3-5k rpm range. Both cars felt stronger after switching over to synthetic.

I change it every 6 months or 5k miles; whichever comes first. I buy mine at Wal-Mart. Last time I got the 5 quart bottle for $21. (Must have been a Roll-Back Special that week.)

[esty]

I buy mine at Wal-Mart. Last time I got the 5 quart bottle for $21. (Must have been a Roll-Back Special that week.)

yeppers...wal-mart for me too

[TJW]

Please provide evidence, not 'I heard a bloke in the bar story' that you should not use synthetic on a new engine.

More bollicks, 'break in period' like to expand on that!!

[Mike87]

I change the oil every 3K, but the filter goes 6K. And that is with RedLine 20W50. I could probably go 6K on the oil as well.