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Oh-oh, broken exhaust manifold stud in head


yeewiz

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I think I'm in big doo-doo. Was replacing exhaust manifold with tii type and lower #1 stud broke off as I was tightening the nut. Sheared off stud flush with the head. Guess that's why you should replace the studs when the manifold is off. I know this is really bad, but what are my options?

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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Step one:

Pick up a beer... if you're of age.

Step two:

Take a deep breath.

Step three:

see of you can cut a notch in the end with a dremel or some sort of tool, then use a stubby flathead screw driver to back it out....

Or scream and throw a temper tantrum like I usually do.....

Brian

72 inka

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I've screamed and threw the tantrum, but the stud end didn't budge.

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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Step one:

Pick up a beer... if you're of age.

Step two:

Take a deep breath.

Step three:

see of you can cut a notch in the end with a dremel or some sort of tool, then use a stubby flathead screw driver to back it out....

Or scream and throw a temper tantrum like I usually do.....

Brian

72 inka

That's wonderful!! Take a deep breath... pick up a beer!

You can buy something called a screw extractor set... but I don't know that you'll be able to use it because the head is on the vehicle. What is does is you drill a hole in the stud. A tiny hole in the middle. Then you litterally screw a reverse-thread bit into the hole you drilled and the stud comes out! It's tricky and I wouldn't reccomend it without a drill press and the head off the car. Try taking it to a shop that can WELD. Weld a screwdriver or allen wrench to the end of the stud. Allen wrenches work well because you can turn them with cresent wrenches. You just bought yourself a $200 problem and maybe a week.... Sorry - been there and you'll laugh about it someday!

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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i had two such head aches when i got an old alfa: i was tearing it down anyway so i brought the head into my local shop_ guy just took a bolt of the same size and welded it to the sheared end. twice, worked like a charm, came right out and he charged me 20 bucks for both. course I had to help him hold the bolt in place as he welded.

now this guy is good and friendly- but it can be done is what I am saying.

'70 project

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The extractor mentioned in a prior post has been around for dozens of years, and can be purchased at most auto parts or hardware stores. Since your bolt sheared off flush at the head, welding anything onto it is not an option. I don't see any concern about drilling the small hole in the end of the stud with the head on the car. Stuff rags in the exhaust ports. A regular drill will not fit in the engine compartment, so go to an equipment rental place (we have Handy Andy here in Seattle) and rent a dremel type tool that will take a very small drill bit (which I assume you can rent with the tool, or buy). Picture something like what a dentist uses to drill your tooth when you get a filling. Be patient while drilling, because studs (especially case hardened) are very hard materials. Get a good drop light in there so you can see what you're doing, and really try to drill the hole dead center on the stud. That's the hard part. Once you get the hole drilled, you're home free. The extractor is a reverse drive and you just screw it in and out comes the stud. I'd suggest replacing all your studs at this time to prevent future problems.

I always do it right the second time.

1970 2002 Chamonix (Fiona)

1976 2002 Chamonix (Blanche), '73 2002 Colorado (Nemo), '72 2002 Riviera, '74 2002 Atlantik, '71 1600 Sahara (Binkley) all sold

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280SE many years ago. The studs are, if I'm not mistaken, hardened. They can be a sob of the first order even if you are in real good position to handle the drill. Buy a bunch of 1/8" cobalt bits and lot of cutting oil. Unless that stud gives it up pretty easily I'd pull the head so you don't ruin it.

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If the stud is busted off flush you can still have it welded if you actually weld the screwdriver (flathead) to the stud. The welder will be able to get the wire in there if you just feed it out a little bit. Then you can put vice grips or a wrench on the screwdriver. If you do it right you can just grind the screwdriver back down when you're done.

Also they make hammer driven impact screwdrivers that loosten and tighten. So as others say, cut a slot and impact the fcuk out of it. You'll have clearance issues there because your motor is in the car. It's not gonna be fun but do yourself a favour and read the "how to install studs" FAQ before you reinstall your new studs.

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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yah- flush is the problem and hardness of the stud is going to give you a pile of pain trying to drill. my guy simply welded another bolt to the flush stud end, I held the bolt in place with a long tongs(it wants to slip when the metal gets soft, so be carfeul), and he the wire and torch-

with a bolt its easy because you can then just stick a wrench on there as normal and turn.

'70 project

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Thanks for all your comments. Been drinking beers as you guys suggest. Doesn't budge the stud but does have medicinal value. Went out and bought a Craftsman Drill-Out Power Extractor. Been looking at the amount of work space to use this and/or Dremel tool. With the angle of the head, should I just figure on removing the head to have the best chance at success? Otherwise seems like a greater probability of mucking the head and stud end if I try to attempt a rescue with the head in place. Seems like most of you had the head out.

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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Thanks for all your comments. Been drinking beers as you guys suggest. Doesn't budge the stud but does have medicinal value. Went out and bought a Craftsman Drill-Out Power Extractor. Been looking at the amount of work space to use this and/or Dremel tool. With the angle of the head, should I just figure on removing the head to have the best chance at success? Otherwise seems like a greater probability of mucking the head and stud end if I try to attempt a rescue with the head in place. Seems like most of you had the head out.

It sucks when removing the exhaust can turn into a 3 week-long remove the head project. Yes it will be easiest to remove the head and take it to someone. This way you won't dammage the head while trying all the monkey business... I feel badly that you have to go through all this trouble. ON the bright side it can be time for a valve job, mild porting & polshing & maybe a cam!

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Then you can position it to drill it yourself. The weld method means you have to find someone who is willing to attempt it, get the car to them and they will likely offer no guarantee of either success or against screwing up the head. Looks like you have a few other suitable drivers while you do this. Keep in mind that with the angle of the head it is real easy to kind slide that bit around and drill a nice neat hole in the head itself. The stud is hard to drill. the AL head is real easy.

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