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pkbinplano

Anybody know how to

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Guest Anonymous

A longer pushrod?

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early cars with 1 bbl carbs had a pump very similar to the air cooled Beetles --it came apart with screws and could be rebuilt with a new diaphragm (in fact you can rebuild one with a VW rebuild kit).

2 bbl cars came with a crimped (no screws holding the upper and lower parts togehter) body. They used different length pushrods and I can't remember which went with which. REgardless, they won't interchange and have the pump work correctly--or at all.

Anyway, if you have an aftermarket early style pump (an Italian made one is notorious for this), the pad that the pushrod presses against will wear to the point where the pushrod won't operate it any more. It may be getting to that point. Also, the end of the pushrod that bears against the fuel pump will wear at an angle (the end should be 90 degrees to the pushrod's length). If this wear is present, it can cause the noise you describe. You can temporarily shut it up by swapping the pushrod end to end, so the angle wear is on the cam end--but replace a worn pushrod...they're cheap. Also check to see if the fuel pump itself is loose on it mounting studs. That can happen...

cheers

mike

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What Mike said - and when mine went a while ago I actually shaved a wee bit off the spacer gasket to "tighten" things up till the new parts arrived. I bought everything together, new pump, gaskets, spacer & pushrod. Just a thought if you measure things up or decide you have a little extra room. I did mine on a fine grit belt sander with a drill press. Don't ask how I rigged it up but I managed to belt sand my fingers also. I used the drill press only to make sure that I was pressing at an even 90degrees.

Better option is to just replace. This is more of a "field" repair.

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2 bbl cars came with a crimped (no screws holding the upper and lower parts togehter) body.

My '76 pump (original, I believe) has one screw in the middle of the top cap. I think that it comes off to expose a screen filter.

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