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spongey/soft master>>>slave Post 5-spd. (TobyB u th

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TobyB posted before that this has often been his experience with post 5-speed conversions. My clutch is just crap now. It functions fine, and i've bled it, I'm using all the right parts, etc. Nothing is "WRONG" or "BAD" it's just soft and does not engage till the bottom of the pedal travel.

What can be done to remedy this? Eventually I'll go with a Tilton type drop down or pop-up pedal assy. but that's years away. For now can I get a larger MC or smaller slave? This is probably a BAD IDEA but how about shim between the TO bearing and the lever arm? OR modify the lever arm so it's less of a lever arm = engage sooner? The "modify or shim" options seem sketchy.... Just like we can bolt on a tii brake MC can I bolt on a different clutch master? How about looking for a different master with a larger piston and boring a standard 2002 mc? Is that a bad idea?

What do you other 5-speed guys do? TobyB - thoughts?

Thanks,

TJW

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The classic problem, Winston, is that the bleeder should point DOWN on the slave. It's totally counter- intuitive, but the passages inside are set up such that with the bleeder down, it draws fluid from the high point in the cylinder.

Other than that, bleeding a bunch is usually necessary. And the normal tricks for brake bleeding help- gentle hammer taps to consolidate bubbles, etc.

As to the 'soft' or 'slow' feel- once everything's really bled out, I haven't had enough trouble with it to make me look for a solution.

fwiw,

t

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The classic problem, Winston, is that the bleeder should point DOWN on the slave. It's totally counter- intuitive, but the passages inside are set up such that with the bleeder down, it draws fluid from the high point in the cylinder.

Other than that, bleeding a bunch is usually necessary. And the normal tricks for brake bleeding help- gentle hammer taps to consolidate bubbles, etc.

As to the 'soft' or 'slow' feel- once everything's really bled out, I haven't had enough trouble with it to make me look for a solution.

fwiw,

t

t-

Bleeder valve is down as it's supposed to be. I'll bleed again and try to tap with a hammer as you suggest. I've bled four times now - the complete system blue, gold, blue and now gold. It's getting old but I'll try again. The car is drivable and fine - just annoying and a PITA. I'll report back and if it don't get better I'll look for a more creative solution.

Thanks

TJW

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Think about it, bleed nipple down and air floats to the top!!!

100% cure, take the slave off, keep fluid lines connected, turn slave to an angle that the nipple is uppermost, keep push rod compressed with hand or baling twine etc. Have a friend (not godzilla) press the foot pedal slowly with your hand around the slave you will feel pressure build up, as the pedal is pressed down, open the nipple.

At the end of pedal travel close nipple, repeat 2/3 times and it will be perfect bleeding.

If you still have a problem then it is not air in the hydraulics.

There are a number of different thicknesses in release bearings ie, distance from face to point where lever arm touches, personally I put a dab of weld on the arm where it touches the bearing to take up a little gap.

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Well I may be a dumbass but the 2 times I've bled mine- both times I had to take it off and hold it vertically to get the thing to bleed. I've tried the bleeder mounted up and down and in the end holding the bleeder up (unmounted) worked like a charm.

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Take a clean oil can, the old man type, with a squeeze trigger, fill it with brake fluid. Attach a short length of tubing to the end of the oil can spout.

Reduce the fluid in the resevoir (sp?) to slightly below the clutch port.

Attach the other end of the tube to the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open, pump the fluid from the can until you are confident the clutch system is void of air and the fluid fills up past the clutch port. Close the bleeder screw.

Neat trick.

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Well I may be a dumbass but the 2 times I've bled mine- both times I had to take it off and hold it vertically to get the thing to bleed. I've tried the bleeder mounted up and down and in the end holding the bleeder up (unmounted) worked like a charm.

Are you guys kidding? It's a ROYAL PITA to remove that slave.... then bleed it with the valve pointing straight up, then reattach? That sux but now you all know what I'm doing tomorrow!

Thanks! OH & how much of a weld? I was thinking about trying to measure the play in the lever arm when the slave is out, then attempting to add that much on? Make sense?

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Bill,

Can I buy one of those pumps at any old hardware store? I've got a few that were grandpa's but I don't know that I would trust putting brake fluid in them without cleaning the heck out of them. Also I wouldn't want to loose the paint on them as they were grandpa's and dad would get upset. Dad flipped out when I broke grandpa's putty knife removing the soundproofing.... Not taking anymore chances. Napa, Home Depot, Ace Hardware?

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oh, ok,

there is another Skywalker-

I use a Mityvac to pressurize the reservoir to a couple of psi.

Then put whichever end of the car (the front on the 320 cylinder, right?)

up in the air that'll get the bleeder up in the air

and then let the pressure push the fluid through.

Worked on 3 out of 3.

And it's the ONLY car I've EVER had to pay attention to-

everything else, you put fluid in, open the bleeder until fluid comes out,

then close it and drive.

Something about that 320 slave just doesn't let it bleed itself in operation

like all the others do...

I dunno.

t

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I have a 320i 4 speed and I think the slaves are the same.

I can open the bleeder on my slave and just gravity bleed the clutch. I have no problems with bleeding or with clutch pressure.

I guess I am lucky.

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Take a clean oil can, the old man type, with a squeeze trigger, fill it with brake fluid. Attach a short length of tubing to the end of the oil can spout.

Reduce the fluid in the resevoir (sp?) to slightly below the clutch port.

Attach the other end of the tube to the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open, pump the fluid from the can until you are confident the clutch system is void of air and the fluid fills up past the clutch port. Close the bleeder screw.

Neat trick.

YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!!! Night and day difference! Even though I've bled now 4 times I still oozed brown crap a little bit today. I replaced the clutch MC with new and bled with a hand pump oil can and it's fine. Just like it was before and just like I had hoped for. Thanks again!

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Take a clean oil can, the old man type, with a squeeze trigger, fill it with brake fluid. Attach a short length of tubing to the end of the oil can spout.

Reduce the fluid in the resevoir (sp?) to slightly below the clutch port.

Attach the other end of the tube to the bleeder screw, crack the bleeder screw open, pump the fluid from the can until you are confident the clutch system is void of air and the fluid fills up past the clutch port. Close the bleeder screw.

Neat trick.

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as my son says, cars will fight you, but what they don't know is - we always win in the end. (Not being bragadoceus, you just have to be confident and persistant when you work on mechanical things)

oozing brown stuff is an ol'man problem, not you young guys......

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