Jump to content
Armond

Vibrates at 35MPH kinda long

17 posts / 1478 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

My mechanic suggests that I have my Driveline re-balanced or replaced due to, in my opinion "minor vibration" at 35MPH. The vibration disappears over 40MPH. How easy is it to remove and replace a driveline? I'm hoping to take it United Driveline in Albany and have them check it out. Thanks as usual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my drive line (tail shaft) re balanced after having new uni joints welded in (new guibo and center bearing too) I could not believe the difference, the car was so much quieter. The tail shaft is easy to pull 4 bolts at the diff end, 2 for the centre bearing and 8 at the guibo. I had a friend engage gears at the guibo end and hand brake at the diff end to stop it spinning. Good luck with it. Beaner7102

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The center bearings and guibo has been replaced as well. Can that be the cause of the vibration? My Mechanic has a good reputation and I doubt that he would pull a fast one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

over time due to leaking tranny/engine oil and can cause a specific speed vibration. Replace with a heavier duty one from an E21 or Bavaria.

Also check front alignment and wheel balance, which can cause the type of vibration (especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel) you describe.

Also, when you had the center support bearing replaced, did the mechanic mark the two halves of the driveshaft and reassemble them correctly. If not, that could be causing your problem.

cheers

mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My mechanic suggests that I have my Driveline re-balanced or replaced due to, in my opinion "minor vibration" at 35MPH. The vibration disappears over 40MPH. How easy is it to remove and replace a driveline? I'm hoping to take it United Driveline in Albany and have them check it out. Thanks as usual.

This is what they are talking about with lining up the driveshaft when you replace the ctr. bearing. It's IMPERATIVE that you put the d-shaft back together the same as it came apart. They are balanced together as one unit and need to stay that way.

4 bolts in the rear from the d-shaft to the diff. Three or four bolts (probably 4) from the driveshaft to the guibo, two for the center bearing hanger and one to seperate the middle yolk. Do yourself a favour and have it fully rebuilt including blasting and paint. They come back so nice and pretty... Also things like grease and rust can throw off the balance slightly. Best to do it right rather than 1/2ass.

You'll need 17mm (could be 19mm) box wrenches for the giubo and diff bolts. Double them up like in the photo for extra leverage, esp. in the rear. You can either have a buddy jack on the e-brake and put the tranny in gear or shove a full size screwdriver in the rear yolk to hold things still.

Ctr. Bearing nuts are 13mm, Center joing nut is 24mm. Go buy yourself one Craftsman 24mm box wrench and shave the loop/round end down to about 11.5 or 12mm so it will fit between the joint. Use a pipe wrench on the weld (it won't bite anywhere else) and double up your wrenches again.

The whole process takes about 2 hours if you've never done it before (that's putting it up on jack stands, removing the exhaust sections, removing and dissasembly of the driveshaft)

Best luck!

TJW

post-377-1366756896832_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I can do this. Is the install a simple Bolt on or is there more to it?

Thanks Gents

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HAVE YOU FIRST TRIED:

rebalance all 4 wheels?

while on the balancing machine - measure rim run-out?

rotate tires to different corners?

tried different wheel/tire on car?

inspected steering link/rods/ends for wear?

condition of front guibo flex joint?

condition of drive shaft rear u-joint bearings?

condition of drive shaft center support/bearing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...then you have a shorter check list->

rebalance all 4 wheels?

while on the balancing machine - measure rim run-out?

rotate tires to different corners?

tried different wheel/tire on car?

inspected steering link/rods/ends for wear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...then you have a shorter check list->

rebalance all 4 wheels?

while on the balancing machine - measure rim run-out?

rotate tires to different corners?

tried different wheel/tire on car?

inspected steering link/rods/ends for wear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... also known as a wobble.

With the wheel spinning on the balancing machine it is fairly easy to determin whether the wheel is true, or whether there is some lateral deflection/wobble/runout.

On a spoke wheel linke a typical bycicle you can true the wheel by selectively tensioning spokes. On a car, if the lateral runout exceeds acceptable tolerances, replacing the wheel is usually the only option.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

adjustments. I too have a vibration in the steering wheel at 65kph and greater.

I DIY alignment it today, it was toed out but the wobble is still there, I know, go put it on a Hunter machine somewhere.....

The tires were professionally balanced after they were trued...I know rotate them, I will tomorrow...

Like the village idiot, I did not mark my driveshaft when I took it off and redid it. SO I just put it back together and slapped in on the car. Silly me.

I called a driveline place, that does not do BMWs, he does not have the connection things. He said seperate the two halves, and rotate them 90 degrees to see if that helps. I know, get it professionally done at a good driveline shop somewhere, I will this winter, when I take the touring off the road, or out of the trailer. Said it before the concours police did.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and will be a Toyota tech at Toyota of Clifton Park.

Stop in and say hi to young Nathan. He may be willing to lend a hand in the evenings if you have a place to work. He does not work for free like his pops. But he is cheap and does know a little about 2002s.

Nateremovingbushes.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I called a driveline place, that does not do BMWs, he does not have the connection things. He said seperate the two halves, and rotate them 90 degrees to see if that helps. ...

that is a technique used to troubleshoot imbalances on gas turbine engines used in helicopters. the turbine to compressor coupling rotates at 51,000 RPM and many times just rotating it 90 degrees will reduce Compressor vibration to within limits. if this technique can be used on engines costing $250K/each then i don't see any problem trying this on a driveshaft. good suggestion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Also, when you had the center support bearing replaced, did the mechanic mark the two halves of the driveshaft and reassemble them correctly. If not, that could be causing your problem"

Turns out that the markers were not alligned on the Halves. Driveline issue is over...Thanks again to the folks who chimed in. Will have a chat with the mechanic. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.