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how to start a car

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hubby bought a 72 parts car from a very nice man in ok city over the weekend....he stripped the entire wiring harness....it has a good engine and drive train and i'd like to rig it so i can start it to move it when needed...

could someone help me with a simple wiring solution, perhaps using some sort of off the shelf switch

under the hood is intact and complete

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Ummm.... Nobody better go stealing any cars - or I'm NOT responsible!!!

Is there a Key & wires that go to the key switch?

You can engage the starter by jumping the positive to the little tiny 12+ on the solonoid. That also should go to the coil so you've got to "hot wire" the car. If you take a SERIOUS wire (NOT ALLIGATOR CLIPS) and jump from the 12+ on the soloniod and run it to the + on the coil you're good. That's why it's called a "Hot Wire" because the 12+ from the battery/solonoid will heat up, melt the plastic and can cause a car fire. Just make sure you use something BIG gauge wise.

So you jump the coil and then just trip the starter with a screwdiver. She'll run....

As for the keys & steering column lock - you're on your own!

HTH esty..

TJW

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If you want to make it user friendly, I am assuming no engine wiring loom but you have distributor and HT leads and you have a battery lead to start motor, you will need an earth wire for battery and engine to body wire of appropriate size;

1, fit a regular wire between coil negative- and dizzy input.

2, fit long wire from coil positive + to simple on/off switch where the driver can reach it, other side of switch a wire to battery.

3, fit long wire from solenoid small terminal to preferably a spring loaded on/off switch to driver area and then to battery.

This will give you ignition but no gauge lights etc.

Check if you have mech. fuel pump, if electric then run another wire from the 'on' side of the new ign switch to input of pump and an earth wire of course.

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Is there a Key & wires that go to the key switch?

HTH esty..

no wires to or from the switch but have the key...what's HTH?

let's test my understanding....

1. run a big wire from the + on the coil to the +

of the starter solonoid...

2. connect the 2 terminals on the starter with a screwdriver to get starter action

3. motor turns

how'd i do.....

one more thing...assuming it starts, how do i turn it off?...and....thanks a bunch...

should i have the volunteer fire dept standing by with the defibrillator?

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If you want to make it user friendly, I am assuming no engine wiring loom but you have distributor and HT leads and you have a battery lead to start motor, you will need an earth wire for battery and engine to body wire of appropriate size;

1, fit a regular wire between coil negative- and dizzy input.

2, fit long wire from coil positive + to simple on/off switch where the driver can reach it, other side of switch a wire to battery.

3, fit long wire from solenoid small terminal to preferably a spring loaded on/off switch to driver area and then to battery.

This will give you ignition but no gauge lights etc.

Check if you have mech. fuel pump, if electric then run another wire from the 'on' side of the new ign switch to input of pump and an earth wire of course.

it has the original mechanical fuel pump so no addl wiring will be need'd for that...i'd like to be able to use a generic key'd switch if possible...that would simplify things a great deal, not having to kill a screwdriver in the sparks

i'm lost with your #'s 2 and 3....are you talking about having 2 switches?

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OK esty,

HTH - hope that helps

You're best bet is a combo of what I said and what the other TJW said. You said "He stripped the ENTIRE wire harness" right? THen you're going to have to make EVERYTHING work.

Wire from battery negitave to chasis. You can buy one of these at a NAPA.

Wire from battery positive to starter solonoid. You can probably buy one of these at a NAPA too.

Wire a decent gauge (10 or 12) from the negative on the coil to the condensor male spade. (You can use an alligator clip here)

Wire an 8 or 10 gauge wire (maybe 6 or 8) from either the battery positive or the starter solonoid positive (over the engine) to the positive on the coil.

Use key, turn to run position, to release column.

Jump from positive 12+ to small spade on starter solonoid to jump start.

As TJW said you can run switches, etc. but it all depends on how far you want to take it. Be careful with the 12+ to the coil + because that's where the "HOT WIRE" comes from. It's really easy to do but you're not going to have brake lights, tach (maybe tach) horn, lights directionals, etc...

Follow what your car has... 12+ at the solonoid (to start the car), 12+ at the coil (to fire the plugs), earth from coil to dizzy condensor (to fire when points open)

This is also how you can trouble shoot ignitions that are difficult. You can eliminate many variables this way.

Good luck & drive it like you stole it!! (cause you just did)

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or you could join AAA and just shrug and say 'it quit running, tow it home wouldya?'

:)

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I'm with -Z- Get the thing towed...

How's it gonna look if you get stopped.... Umm no I really do own this car... see I have the key. Only don't look under the hood and no I can't make it shut off till it runs out of fuel. It'll only be a few hours - bear with me!

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thanks you guys...maybe i said things wrong....the heavy duty wires to and from the battery location...to ground on engine and to starter are there..

what's missing is all the small wire inside the wiring harness that goes to lights, guages, etc...

i understand i'll have no guages, lights, etc, that's unimportant, i just want to be able to start the motor and move the car in and out of the shop as needed until i can get the engine & tranny removed

you said..."Use key, turn to run position, to release column.

Jump from positive 12+ to small spade on starter solonoid to jump start"...i'm lost again...i'm not following you...what key [?]"to release column"[/?]

edit...lol....i have the car at home...i ain't gonna be taking it for spins around the neighborhood sitting on a milk crate...i'd get a ticket for not wearing my seatbelt and no doors

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thanks you guys...maybe i said things wrong....the heavy duty wires to and from the battery location...to ground on engine and to starter are there..

what's missing is all the small wire inside the wiring harness that goes to lights, guages, etc...

i understand i'll have no guages, lights, etc, that's unimportant, i just want to be able to start the motor and move the car in and out of the shop as needed until i can get the engine & tranny removed

you said..."Use key, turn to run position, to release column.

Jump from positive 12+ to small spade on starter solonoid to jump start"...i'm lost again...i'm not following you...what key [?]"to release column"[/?]

edit...lol....i have the car at home...i ain't gonna be taking it for spins around the neighborhood sitting on a milk crate

esty,

there's a little tiny spade terminal on the solonoid. there are two wires on that spade. One from the key that activates when you hold the key in start position and one that goes to the coil. What you should probably do is run a wire from the starter BIG 12+ to the dash and hook to a key switch. Key switch needs either a starter button off of it or three positions. Easiest is key has on/off.

Confusing myself. OK 12+ from battery to starter solonoid. 12+ from starter solonoid to (ISOLATED) key switch on dash that has 2 positions. ON and OFF. Run two wires from the ON posiiton. One to a push button starter and one to the solonoid. Use 6 gauge wire maybe 8. Push button on dash has 12+ that goes to little spade terminal on starter. now you have start button. Key's ON posision... take second wire and run it to the coil's 12+ wire. Now you have key and start.

Make sense? Lock column = there is a steering lock mechinism in the steering column. You'll need to have the OEM key turned to RUN so the wheel will turn. If not you'll only be able to drive straight and in circles.

Make more sense?

thomasjwinston at yahoo dot com

617-717-8157

contact me when you're there if you need anything

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there is a steering lock mechinism in the steering column. You'll need to have the OEM key turned to RUN so the wheel will turn. If not you'll only be able to drive straight and in circles.

Make more sense?

thomasjwinston at yahoo dot com

617-717-8157

contact me when you're there if you need anything

gotcha....yes sir...i do have the key and can unlock the wheel...

i believe i understand how to wire a simple switch now....i have a generic one i bought at NAPA last summer to put in my tractor but never got around to it... it sounds like a button switch would be easiest but how do i kill the engine once started with that kind of switch?...a friend wired a push button switch on one of my garden tractors a couple of years ago...it has a wire hanging out that i use to ground out the engine to the tractor frame but i don't know what it's to

and BTW...i appreciate your patience with stupid people

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Yes two switches,

1, ON/OFF will give you switched power to run the engine and turn it off.

2, spring loaded switch will operate the starter when in the ON position, when switch is released the starter will disengage.

As stated this is the user friendly version that you can operate from the drivers seat.

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Not to beat a dead horse BUT...

esty make sure your switches are automotive grade. Especially the starter button. That can see some amp draw during starting as well as the on off switch. Also remember that the material inside the dash is steel so make sure you're not grounding out before you attach that 12+ or you'll be welding your switches in place!

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Not to beat a dead horse BUT...

thanks all you guys, especially winston...i'll give things a go the 1st chance i have and if i have any issues, i'll bring them back here

again...thanks for all the help and patience

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