engine and drivetrain Starting an engine after 6+ years - Where do I start?

[PSloan]

So, I bought a 69 or 70 1602 a with a 74 engine a few weeks ago. so far, I have done nothing to it but find out that the battery is dead. So, before I start it I plan to spray some lube in each cylinder - change the oil - change the coolant - clean up the spark plugs - and clean out the carb. Is there anything else I need to do to start the engine safely? I plan on making this car somewhat of a driver/college commuter - so I dont want to do anything wrong and burn the engine up. It has a 84 casting e12 head - so im assuming it's been rebuilt. Plus, the PPO was somewhat of an enthusiest. Is there anything else I should add to the checklist before turning the key?

[hpsenicka]

Not sure what kind of lube would be best to squirt into the cylinders.... perhaps just regular motor oil?

In any case, I would strongly recommend turning the engine over manually, with the spark plugs removed to ensure that it spins freely without binding before you crank it using the starter motor.

Also, it would be ideal to pressurize the oil system before turning the engine... not sure exactly how to do this on this engine, but generically, you want to spin the oil pump without the engine turning.

[PSloan]

I got the crank to budge already without way too much effort. I've been told WD40 or similar is good for the cylinders - as dry rings yeild low compression. Normal motor oil may be a bit thick. I'm curious - why pressurize the oil system? It seems like that would be very hard to do.

I forgot - i also have a full tank of 6 year old gas to drain. I'm looking forward to that.

[hpsenicka]

You want the bearings well lubed before cranking if possible.... There likely won't be much of an oil film left in them after that many years.

[PSloan]

True. It would be quite an effort though to turn the pump without turning the crank. Maybe if my rings are bad enough some of that WD40 would get down there. If I'm lucky...

[esty]

marvel mystery oil

[Bill_Riblett]

It is made primarily for displacing moisture.

[PSloan]

So, some marvel mystrey oil in each cylinder? I can turn the crank a small bit with the fan blade - then i guess it begine to comress and i cant turn it anymore for a minute or so. Is this normal? What worries me is there was a new starter and clutch in the trunk. I dont mind replacing the starter but i dont want to do another clutch job.

[esty]

i'd pour some of the oil on it and allow it to sit overnight or longer...and i'd put a pint of so in the top end as well

[Guest Anonymous]

fuel tank

clean it out

flush the fuel system. run the injector/carb cleaner in fresh fuel

might want to rebuild the carb but will usually without

( mine has a serious flat spot still )

chck the tranny fluid and rear end fluid

[Beaner7102]

Squirt MM oil or regular oil in each cylinder, leave the plugs out, let it sit overnight, turn the motor by hand (plugs out = 0 compression). You may want to drain the oil and replace the filter. With new oil (and clean fuel system) replace the plugs and crank it over with the coil lead off - so it will not start, this gets the oil pump working, pressurizing the system and lubricating everything. Put the coil lead back on and see if she fires. Beaner7102

[tkent02]

thread a plastic funnel into the hole and fill it up with motor oil, when it goes down into the engine fill it up again. Some oil will ooze through into the main bearings, rod bearings, maybe even some of the valve train parts in the head. The oil passages will then be full of oil, it will make the oil pressure come up very quickly once the engine is turned over, instead of running the bearings dry untill the oil pump primes itself and pressure builds up. If you have a means to pump oil into the same port do it, it can only help.

[BillWilliams]

and crank the motor over until the oil pressure light goes out.

[Guest Anonymous]

In addition to your list, you may want to consider replacing the fuel lines coming off the hard line at the firewall to the fuel pump - and from the pump to the carb.

The hose will only cost you a few bucks and it is good insurance against a flame job.

I'm sure you have thougth of it but you may want to flush the radiator - and top up the overflow tank. The heater-core holds radiator fluid and I'm sure your's is dry by now. When your t-stat opens it will let fluid enter and the level in the radiator will drop. As far as I know there is no way to fill witout it running so just be ready upon your maiden voyage to check that out.

Good luck!

Chuck

[bevans6]

If you put oil in the cylinders (great idea) be absolutely sure to spin the engine over well on the starter mtor with the spark plugs out to remove most of the oil before you turn the engine over. if you don't you can easily hydraulic lock the engine and that would be bad. When that happens, if you're lucky it just won't turn over, but if one cylinder fires before one locks, you can break rods or crankshafts.

Plus spinning it over without the spark plugs is the easiest way to prime the oil system. There are other ways to do it on this engine, but they aren't the work of a few minutes to set up for.

Brian