engine and drivetrain sway bar pic

[Ian]

Does anyone have a pic of their car with the stock sway bar with mounting point, or with the ST bar? I'm getting interference with my Ireland bar (which runs under the oilpan, just ahead of the drain plug) now that I've lowered my engine, and can't remember where the stock or ST bar runs.

Thanks,

Ian

'76 M2 (panless)

[Harv]

The stock swaybar runs at the front of and on top of the subframe. If you look at Bill Williams's project blog you can see it in a few pictures.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,277829/

John

[TMK-001]

I have been reading a few of your posts around here for a while - I read your original site on your cars build up, and it was one of the most insiring things behind me wanting an S14 powered 2002 - Thanks!

I was wondering why you lowered your engine? You must be getting close to the car being back on the road?

[Ian]

I lowered the S14 to get better clearance in the engine bay. Every S14 install seems slightly unique, and many sit high. That's why Ireland stopped selling M2 strut bars, they were straight and would interfere with the S14 unless the car was identical to the one Ireland used when designing the bar.

In typical fashion lowering the engine is a "slippery-slope" for tasks, as I can lower the engine, but now need to delete the brake booster, and am converting to Tilton pedals to remove the need for the booster. However, this has required a lot of fabricating, so rather than pay someone else I bought a MIG welder and am doing it myself. This makes for a glacial pace, but is a lot of fun. Hope to get the car on the road soon, though!

Ian

[Harv]

but now need to delete the brake booster, and am converting to Tilton pedals to remove the need for the booster.

Are you converting because of the pedel to M/C force ratio or for some other reason?

I'm thinking of deleting my M/C too.

John

[Ian]

I'm deleting the booster because it now interfers with the (lowered) S14 intake plenum. I've converted to Wilwood calipers front (Lee's Massive Brakes) and rear (my own fabrication-in-progress), and called Tilton to get master cylinder diameters for their triple master pedal setup.

Ian

'76 M2

[TMK-001]

Keep us updated on your progress - sounds crazy! Kudos for taking on the task first hand.

I have heard of people shifting the motors back, but never lowering - I assumed with the tight fit of the M10 sump it would be near impossible.

Lower CoG will be good for those corner speeds :-)

Todd

[Ian]

You are right about the M10 pan hitting the subframe. I picked up a VAC hybrid S14/2002 pan, which eases the fit issue (also eases the wallet!) and controls the S14 oil starvation in sweepers. I'll try and update my website (our motto: Once every 10 years is current!) soon with some pics.

Ian

[TMK-001]

Well, I first looked at your page in 2002, so there isn't any great hurry :-P

Nah, I would love to read an update and see how you go fitting up Lee's Massive Brakes as I have a set coming my way... (They are swimming from Canada!)

S14/2002 Hybrid sump...sounds like something else I need to factor into the build up :-O

Cheers,

Todd

[Harv]

Keep in mind that you can only go so low till the steering drag link becomes a problem.

John

[Ian]

Good point about steering interference. With the S14 lowered about .75", the engine and header till clears the pitman arm and drag link. A few pictures are at: http://web.mac.com/iandickerson/iWeb/Site/Library.html

Ian

[TJW]

You may not want to do this, but it takes about 1/2 an hour to put the bar to the back of the engine, drill the subframes and a few rivnuts, it looks flimsey but when you think about the pressure load, the pressure pushes against the subframe and this year I have had no problems.

Secondly look at the photo you will see the flywheel, if your steering linkage is touching the bell housing then cut the housing, 5 years now and no problems.

[Ian]

Good suggestions. I saved the pics from your earlier posts to my computer for ideas for my car. I'm gong to have to make a new passenger-side momtor mount, but other than that the uber-pan clears the subframe, as do the engine and headers. With my driveline lowered slghtly, I may have to make new tranny and center-bearing mounts, to keep the driveshaft aligned correctly, but other than that I think everything will fit.

Ian

[NickVyse]

Good suggestions. I saved the pics from your earlier posts to my computer for ideas for my car. I'm gong to have to make a new passenger-side momtor mount, but other than that the uber-pan clears the subframe, as do the engine and headers. With my driveline lowered slghtly, I may have to make new tranny and center-bearing mounts, to keep the driveshaft aligned correctly, but other than that I think everything will fit.

Ian

one thing leads to another, eh Ian!

With the VAC oil pan could you move the motor back at all? And you can assume any bulkhead clearance issues would be dealt with - just interested how the VAC item clears the subframe - good looking (if rather wallet lightening!) piece.

[TMK-001]

Dang! That is an expensive piece!! (Just looked on their website - $900+ WOW! Must be good!