Heater Controls

[lngbrd]

I need some help in replacing a broken control for my heater. Please do not tell me I have to take the dash out, again. There has to be an easier way. The “wire” is broken right as it attaches to the heater valve. Can I attach a new wire and pull it through?

Thanks

[Jack]

You MIGHT (emphasis added) be able to pull the cable back into the interior. That cable has a raw end on it so I guess it might be possible to feed it thru the sleeve. It is kinda /sorta a straight shot. I suspect you will have to at least pull the console. The guy who designed that heater box was either an utter genius or purely demented. I'm just not sure which!

[scottt]

Jack, the guy that designed the heater box was a genius, the evil madman was the guy that built the razor sharp bracket for the underdash panels :-)

On topic, I don't see how you could replace that cable without removing the heater box from under the dash. That cable is the dual cable, they're connected together at the control lever end, then one end goes to the flap in the box ( ha ), the other goes to the heater valve. I've discovered the cause of the broken heater valve cable as well. The bolt that travels through the lever on the valve is designed with a shoulder on it allowing it to pivot within the lever. When it corrodes and siezes in place it forces the cable to bend sharply at the bolt, breaking it.

You don't have to remove the dash to pull the heater box, just the center console, it really isn't that big a job. The faq instructions are excellent, I think you'll be happy if you do it right the first time.

[kburkhardt]

Hi Scott,

I am a new 74 '02 owner interested in replacing the heater valve.

Am I correct in thinking that the lever should be removed from the valve body 1st, then dismount the valve, replce lever with new and then rverse process to cmplete?

I'm reaching out to you on a hunch that you know your stuff, and may be willing to share some advise.

Thanks, Ken

PS. it took me surviving my 2nd heart attack in 6 years to promise myself I'd own a bimmer........EVERY time i get behind the wheel, hell every time walk up to this little rocket I i feel like a i'm 25 again

heep good medicine

my e-mail is kenburkhardt@comcast.net

[Zenon]

Am I correct in thinking that the lever should be removed from the valve body 1st, then dismount the valve, replce lever with new and then rverse process to cmplete?

That's how I have done it a couple times - I left the cable attached to the lever and only undid the screw that holds the lever to the heater valve.

Note that the screw that attaches the lever to heater valve comes in two flavours. Valves with plastic guts (post '73 and most/all new replacements) will have a coarse thread (like a wood or sheet metal screw) while valves with all-metal guts will have a fine machine thread. Don't mix 'em up.

Make sure the new valve is in the correct position (open or closed) to match the position of the heater control when you install it.

If you like building ships in bottles while blindfolded, you will love replacing the heater valve in-situ.

Good luck.

regards,

Zenon

[Zenon]

I need some help in replacing a broken control for my heater. Please do not tell me I have to take the dash out, again. There has to be an easier way. The “wire” is broken right as it attaches to the heater valve. Can I attach a new wire and pull it through?

Thanks

It may be possible to to replace just the cable core - without disturbing the cable housing - with the heater box in-place since both ends are more or less exposed and one end of the cable is straight.

If you remove the heater control lever assembly* then you should be able to get at the end of the valve cable - it will have a looped end over a peg on the lever. (The temperature lever controls the heater valve and also a flap in the heater box and so has two cables connected but figuring which is which should be easy enough.) Once off the peg, you should be able to pull it back into the car. Installation would be the reverse.

*Not sure 'bout older cars but on '73 and later pull off the lever knobs, carefully pry out the faceplate (pulling on a crochet hook in lodged in a slot is pretty safe for the dash vinyl), remove philips screws and then pull controls/cables out from behind/under the dash. It might help to remove the centre console but there's no need to remove the dash!

You could make a new cable out of some suitable diameter solid steel wire (perhaps as found in a generic choke/throttle cable kit), the big trick here being to re-creat the looped end.

regards,

Zenon