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Subframe bushings.... replace them!


jgerry2002

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On my '76 today I finally (after having them new for two years) replaced my subframe bushings.

I have not put many miles on the car in the past two years, but last year the back end felt like it was wandering. When I'd brake heavily the car would pull to one side. After sorting out the brakes, it still wanted to pull to one side. I figured I still had an adjustment problem...

In preperation for my upcoming drive to Brooklyn on Monday (and '02 fest east in a few weeks), I decided it was finally time to replace the subframe bushings.

I used a procedure I found in the archives here. You do not need to remove the subframe. You have to do one side at a time. The only difficult part is getting the bolt (aka pin) to come apart. It needs to be pushed up inside the car before you can get the bushing off the subframe. It took lots of Wurth to get them to finally let go. I had to use a fairly good size mallet (5 or 8lbs) as well. I used an old nut (buy new ones) so I could hit the bolt without mangling the threads.

They both were original (!) dated '75. I found that one side was cracked around the middle, the other side was also cracked in the middle, but was also coming apart from the outside of the bushing.

After replacing things (and torquing to spec) I went for a drive tonight, its amazing how much tighter the car feels. Braking from 60 mph is nice and straight now, even in slightly rutted roads.

Anyway, I will be working on the '74tii tomorrow. Endless task list on that car, we'll see how much I can get done over two days.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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Fresh suspension rubber will transform these old cars.

One of the best performance upgrades is to just replace all the tired 30 year old rubber with fresh stuff.

Did the 02, the M3(19 years old) was in the process of being done but the 02 demanded more attention.

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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can you guys list the part #s and quantities for bushings i need to order?????

ive been having trouble getting some information on the different #s for them

i've already replaced my tie rods, and i have new ball joints waiting to be put in but i'm waiting to get the bushings so i can do it all at once.

1969 2002 Automatic "Pumpkin"

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Guest Anonymous

I'm always nervous about hammmering the studs up through the floor, and prefer (when possible) to LEAVE 'em in place - lower the subframe about 3 inches - and have at it. On 6 series cars and 3ers - there's little option but to hammer the studs out - but you risk stripping the splines in the chassis,mushrooming the stud, etc etc...

A floor jack in the center of the subframe usually does the trick - and I do one side at a time.

Though I don't have the part numbers (sorry!) I always replace ALL hardware associated: bolts, lock nuts, etc.

HTH!

Paul

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The part # for the rear subframe bushings is 33 33 1 103 926. I happen to have a set in front of me, wiating to be installed. Same for both sides, all pre-74 cars. 74+ is slightly different rubber or something, but folks here say they can be used since the housing is the same.

Jeff
1975 Alfa Romeo GT1300Junior w/1600 transplant (I'm still stuck on 1600's LOL)
2006 M3 White/Red - Orig Owner,6spd,ZCP, sunroof delete
SOLD 1967 1600 #1517644 "Florida"/Brown w/sunroof, SOLD 1968 1600 #1564660, RIP 1970 1600

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I'm always nervous about hammmering the studs up through the floor, and prefer (when possible) to LEAVE 'em in place -

If you are careful, getting them back in the chassis the same way they came out does not seem to be a problem. This is after repeating the process on two different cars.

If you just jam them in, I do see that its possible to mangle the the threads.

I personally like to take a quick look inside the mount for any corrosion issues.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

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