can I replace a door brake w/o removing the interior panel?

[Boulder2milan]

Or am I dreaming - I thought I saw a post that said one can do this - I tried searching but no luck. Thanks

[BLUNT]

it can be done with a sawzall. otherwise i believe the panel has to come off

[Harv]

I think so. As I remember (sitting in my local coffee shop) there are the two bolts that are on the door jamb side by the brake. I guess you could undo the bolts and the brake could drop down in the door. Then it would rattle every time you hit a bump. Also, if your replacing a broken door brake, there is probably a broken piece down in the door anyway. If you go to Napa, they have a tool for about 9 bucks that will help you remove the door panel without breaking too many door panel snaps. I bought one years ago and can't believe I ever survived without one.

John

[Guest Anonymous]

Per your quote: Stoplights timed for 30 mph are also timed for 60 mph.

They are also timed for 120mph

[schwarz75]

(nt)

[Boulder2milan]

tap (pound) it through. I know I've replaced a few of these door stops over the years - but this one is stubborn!

I got my virgin door panel off my 8500 km 2002 (75 schwarz)and the plastic sheet is sooooo together - no rips- just like from the factory! It sure is a treat to work on a like new 2002! Now to try not to do any bonehead f--k ups as i put it back together

[Guest Anonymous]

Remove the window winder handle.

Pry loose the door panel clips holding the front, lower section of the door panel to the door body - about five or six clips.

(If your interior moisture barrier is intact - you will have to deal with opening and resealing the plastic sheet. When I re-did the door panels years ago, I attached plastic sheeting to the new door panel backer instead of the door. Makes '02 life easier.)

Remove the pin holding the door brake to the door jamb.

Tie a string to the door brake, through the pin hole. (Skip this step if you're you're the ambidextrous type.)

Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the door brake.

Reach in and pull out the old door brake and any broken parts that may have fallen to the bottom of the door.

Tie the string to the new brake and pull it in place to accept the 10mm bolts.

Put it all back together.

Congratulate yourself on not having to take off the door panel - this time.[/i]

[jimk]

Yes, did 2 not less than a mont ago.

Remove pin at jamb. run a retrieval wire or cord thru pin hole in brake ass'y. Unsnap lower part of panel and maybe remove the arm rest and door handle, window crank.

Remove 2 cap screws holding brake and let the brake down into door and remove thru lower fwd access hole. Pull out a bit of retrieve wire and attach new brake to wire. pull it up into place and reinstall cap screwe. Insert pin. Snap door panel in place and replace the handles.

Drive away!

[ingraham]

"(If your interior moisture barrier is intact - you will have to deal with opening and resealing the plastic sheet. When I re-did the door panels years ago, I attached plastic sheeting to the new door panel backer instead of the door. Makes '02 life easier.) "

That saves a bunch of work, and it protects the door panel. If the moisture barrier is not sealed against the door, however, water can come into the car by running down the 'outside' of the barrier and dripping onto the carpet, especially is the car is listing to one side.

[ingraham]

if the pin is stuck in the bracket on the body side. This often happens if the bottom end of the pin was mushroomed to keep it in place, or if the pin is distorted through wear. Use a Dremel tool or equivalent to quickly grind off the exposed end(s) of the pin so it can slide out.