Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

paint selection brand? 1 or 2 stage? D/FW Texas


Recommended Posts

have my 71 barn car ready for paint shop,,,engine out,trim off ,glass out. i have talked to a couple of shops. most say available paint for "golf "is single stage sherman williams but recomend a second coat of clear to prevent oxidation. my knowlege of painting doesn't go much beyond Krylon. i know the most important part of the job is prep. whats the best longest lasting paint...polyurethane,1 or 2 stage? brand/type. can anyone recommend a good shop in Ft Worth or the mid-cities

2. any tricks on removing gutter trim eithout destroying it ?

don johnston

817 706 1558

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2. any tricks on removing gutter trim eithout destroying it ?

don johnston

817 706 1558

I don't have anything to say about paint, but I, too, really want to know about gutter trim removal.... or even if I can buy new stuff...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are advantages to both 1 & 2 stage paints....but I believe single stage is cheaper in the long run. Depending on color 2 stage may get you the best "deeper" color. I have always been told to ask the shop what they prefer to use and go with what they do "best".

Re: gutter trim removal...start at the rear and pull up andtwist a bit to unhook it from the rail...simply pull it off. It "cannot" be saved...some will say you can save it, but I have never bothered...it's inexpensive brand new!

For install, it's tricky, and here are my directions for what has worked for me:

Rehab the sheet metal first..no rust, burrs, good paint coverage, etc....very important that there are no burrs or irregularities along the sheet metal rail that the chrome lip can hang up on. Then I always "lube" mine (the sheet metal rail) with all purpose Bosch lub or similar (eases installation and helps prevent moisture being trapped under the trim later).

Now, start at the bend atop the "A"-pillar by positioning the chrome strip

approximately where it will reside, then install the chrome with the back

first and "roll-it" toward you very carefully....you will know when it

"grabs". Then I proceeded to work down the "A"-pillar toward the front...get the position correct now...it will be easy to "slide" on the rail (remember the grease?)...Then, simply work toward the rear slowly until done.

You will be able to move it slightly as you work (if necessary) to get it

aligned properly, but the more of the chrome that is installed the harder it will be to move it. The only problem I've had is the very rear portion of

chrome sometimes doesn't want to stay in place perfectly...but over time it has done fine...maybe the lub prevented a good bond at first (i.e. slippery).

Also, if you get a wee bit of deflection (hairline cracking) at the bend in

the "A"-pillar when the bent portion goes on it will be barely noticeable, so don't worry about it. I'd say the initial placement and popping in place of the chrome at the bend atop the "A"-pillar is most critical on this install.

I'd lay something on the car to prevent the chrome scratching the paint,

unless you have a helper that can hold the "long" end that would be flapping in the breeze without a helper.

It worked for me...

good luck,

John

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1) for paint, find out what your body guy recommends, go to someone that knows paint (a lot of hacks out there). I believe on my '74 they went with Dupont (I think) with a clearcoat. He recommended that over others (he was will to use anything I asked).

2) Gutter Trim: Its available at the dealer, not worth trying to save. Was not too expensive if I recall.

-Justin
--
'76 02 (USA), '05 Toyota Alphard (Tokyo) - http://www.bmw2002.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

Last Time I was in my local Dupont place, they told me that they only make the metallics in 2 stage (color coat/clear coat). the trick to using a clear over a single stage is to apply it after the single stage paint has had time to flash and set, but before the single coat paint has had enough time to completely dry. An hour or two is usually enough. too long (24 hours or more) and the clear coat will not be able to bond to the single stage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Last Time I was in my local Dupont place, they told me that they only make the metallics in 2 stage (color coat/clear coat). the trick to using a clear over a single stage is to apply it after the single stage paint has had time to flash and set, but before the single coat paint has had enough time to completely dry. An hour or two is usually enough. too long (24 hours or more) and the clear coat will not be able to bond to the single stage.

sounds like you're assuming ss is only acrylic enamel....use urethane, which is far superior anyway and mix the final coat with the clear, then clear coat that for cutting and buffing to prevent disturbing the metallic's pattern

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...