How do I remove hood and trunk Roundel?

[jpcapoc]

Is there a trick to this? I assume that you just gently pry them off. Is it difficult to get them back on? I just looked at the hood, it seems pretty tough to reach the plastic holders on the back.

I've got replacement plastic ones. I'm going to attempt to refurbish the originals. Any suggestions? I couldn't find testors 1110 in a spray can. They've got the lighter and darker blue but not the medium one. I found one that actually may be closer to the original.

[esty]

pry em off and push em back in....that's if the retainer don't crumble when you take them off

[Guest Anonymous]

JUST ANSWERING YOUR QUESTION FROM EARLIER I HAVE AN E12 HEAD MINE IS 61CCS AND YOU SHOULD CHECK YOUR CAM TIMING THERE IS A WAY TO ADJUST IT I KNOW SOME ONE WHO CAN TELL YOU HOW I WILL SEE IF HE CAN WRITE YOU THIS WILL IMPROVE DRIVE ABILITY OF YOUR CAR ALSO I BELEVE YOUR COMPRESSION RATIO IS HIGHER THAN YOU THINK THE TI HEADS HAVE SMALLER CHAMBERS

[Guest Anonymous]

JUST ANSWERING YOUR QUESTION FROM EARLIER I HAVE AN E12 HEAD MINE IS 61CCS AND YOU SHOULD CHECK YOUR CAM TIMING THERE IS A WAY TO ADJUST IT I KNOW SOME ONE WHO CAN TELL YOU HOW I WILL SEE IF HE CAN WRITE YOU THIS WILL IMPROVE DRIVE ABILITY OF YOUR CAR ALSO I BELEVE YOUR COMPRESSION RATIO IS HIGHER THAN YOU THINK THE TI HEADS HAVE SMALLER CHAMBERS

[John_in_VA]

I put a credit card (or thick towel) down on the paint and carefully pry with a small slotted screwdriver near the 2 pegs, then work my way around with my fingers.

New retainers are a good idea, and you can reuse the adhesive "dum-dum" to keep things snug and hopefully whistle-free.

[jasonix]

Pry slightly while protecting the surface, then slip something thin and strong under the gap. I use a length of plastic packing strap or insulated wiring. Pull up and rock the emblem back and forth very slightly.

If you do it right, you'll have a roundel imprint on your forehead to show your friends...

[jpcapoc]

JUST ANSWERING YOUR QUESTION FROM EARLIER I HAVE AN E12 HEAD MINE IS 61CCS AND YOU SHOULD CHECK YOUR CAM TIMING THERE IS A WAY TO ADJUST IT I KNOW SOME ONE WHO CAN TELL YOU HOW I WILL SEE IF HE CAN WRITE YOU THIS WILL IMPROVE DRIVE ABILITY OF YOUR CAR ALSO I BELEVE YOUR COMPRESSION RATIO IS HIGHER THAN YOU THINK THE TI HEADS HAVE SMALLER CHAMBERS

Yeah Joe, that's what I was thinking, that the compression is pretty high. Can you put me in touch with the guy that can tell me how to adjust it back? I'm guessing that I'd have to modify the cam sprocket to relocate the holes. It's running ok, it's just so different, especially compared to my tii, which wants to rev high. I've still got my old 121, so I'll measure the volume per your suggestion one of these days, then try to calculate how much of the volume was removed as a result of the 0.060" removal.

[jpcapoc]

Thanks all, I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

[TMK-001]

How about this... extremely successful where I am from.

Get your run of the mill dental floss... slide it under and gently pull upwards... they are in small plastic retainers, you can easily remove them with a gentle upwards motion.

Give it a crack!

[Guest Anonymous]

Joe asked me 2 respond to your question about cam time

1 you set the crank to tdc( top dead center) set the cam to tdc also ( if you dont already know how to do this refer to a book for this procedure , as it requires more in depth than this email can go into), use a pair of vise grips on a non machined part of cam resting against the side of the head to hold the cam in TDC position and keep it from turning. once you get TDC position, a small scribe mark or match mark on cam and front cam bearing top will help you keep everything aligned.

2 pop the dowel pin out of the cam ( use a pin punch from the backside ) put a rag or something in the chain cover hole so the pin wont fall into the motor.

3 put lipstick on the front of the cam where the sprocket seats to cam. put sprocket into the chain and pull it tight on the drive side of the chain (driver side of the engine, you may have to pop the tensioner plug out to give the chain a little slack) adjust the sprocket position so the bolt holes are close to the threaded holes in cam if you are slotting them or away from existing holes if you want to drill new ones (preferred method).

4 with the cam chain tight on left side, carefully seat it on the cam. tap gently to transfer lipstick to sprocket. it will mark the location of the new holes needed.

5 drill a new dowel pin hole where it is marked by lipstick, either slot the bolt holes or drill new ones in new location as marked.

6 I usually advance it just slightly about 2 degrees to compensate for tension of the chain, it will retard slightly when rotated after final assembly do your own figuring here as each motor may be slightly different.

7 bolt it back together with loctite and you are good to go.

HELPFUL HINT: if you have an old cam. set the sprocket on it with the new dowel pin location mark in lipstick aligned with the dowel pin hole in cam and use a transfer punch thru the cam from the backside (away from sprocket side) to center the new hole you need to drill (transfer punches are available from harbor freight. com for approx $6 a set on sale) test fit it on car to make sure everything is lined up correctly, if it is, align new bolt holes the same way and drill. Make sure you use the correct drill size for the dowel pin hole as it needs to be SNUG but not too tight, copy size of existing hole in sprocket. hole for bolts not as critical,

you can set several different cam timing settings on 1 gear.

rule of thumb is advanced will put your power band down way low, retarded gives you more high end. No more than 6 degrees of crank rotation either advanced or retarded without checking piston to valve clearances.

this information is intended for educational purposes only and it is a procedure I have personally used, depending on your skill level you may or may not be able to duplicate results and no liability is accepted for your use. use at your own risk

PS a narrow putty knife works well for pulling emblems it is nice and wide so it does not damage finish when you pry gently

[Mike Self]

The Testors color you want is 1111...and you can use it from the bottle with a little care. First I paint the outer black portion with a spray can (mask off the outer and center raised portions. Before the paint is fully hard, carefully scrape it off the BMW with your fingernail.

Then I set the roundel on a flat surface, thin the blue and white paint with a little thinner and dab it on the metal with a toothpick. It might take two applications if you use too much thinner, but it'll go on and flow without leaving brush (or toothpick) marks.

I've found the paint lasts 2-3 years before you have to touch it up.

cheers

mike

[SteveJ]

Mike said- "the paint will last 2 or 3 years".

That is MUCH better than the roundels on the newer BMWs. They tend to last about a year before the outer plastic lifts and then the color sections flake off.

At this point, I may take one of my old raised roundels and put it on the 99 328i.

[jpcapoc]

Thanks for the Cam Timing info. I'll study this and decide whether I have the skill level. If not, I'll be sure to take this into consideration when I have my original head rebuilt!

[jpcapoc]

The Testors color you want is 1111...and you can use it from the bottle with a little care. First I paint the outer black portion with a spray can (mask off the outer and center raised portions. Before the paint is fully hard, carefully scrape it off the BMW with your fingernail.

Then I set the roundel on a flat surface, thin the blue and white paint with a little thinner and dab it on the metal with a toothpick. It might take two applications if you use too much thinner, but it'll go on and flow without leaving brush (or toothpick) marks.

I've found the paint lasts 2-3 years before you have to touch it up.

cheers

mike

Thanks Mike, I found a different brand of model paint that's very very close to the good roundels that I've got on the hubcaps. I just masked off everything and sprayed the blue. I used and Xacto knife to cut the curve. If it works, I'll do the same for the white and black, although it sounds like it's easier to scrape it off as you suggested. I'll let you know how it works out!

I managed to pry it off very carefully with no damage to the paint or roundel. I'm "practicing" on my old '70, before I attempting on my '74 tii "baby"

[temujin]

i know this is a noob question but is that model paint 1111 that you guys are talking about for the logo, cause mine is bad as well just wonder where to go to find it.