Do I need to drain the fuel from my tank for this?

[Ebruckbauer]

I am installing a new electric fuel pump and fuel filter tonight, but the pump instructions reccomend I drain the old fuel out of the tank first. Any reason for this? Also would I have to drain all that fuel with a special pump (I have seen them for 60 bucks at the auto parts store) or is ther an easier (less expensive) way?

[2002Targa]

Just take the tank out and turn it upside down in a bucket.

I can't see any reason to drain it just to change a fuel pump unless it's an in-tank pump. Maybe to get any stray water globulets out.

Even if it is an in-tank pump, you shouldn't have to drain it just to change the pump. Just be careful and use non sparking tools if you have them.

TK

[Ebruckbauer]

dump it out.... pure genius. Its an out of tank pump so I see no reason to do that I think thay just want me to be safe. I gusee I better stop using candles to see what I am doing in my trunk then.

[Mike Self]

1. If you drain the tank while it's in place, be sure and connect a ground strap between the gas tank/body and the drain pan/can--especially if it's metal. (a jumper cable works fine for this)

2. If you pull the tank and then drain it, still use a ground strap.

3. Do this outside, not in a confined area. gas fumes are heavier than air and will creep across the floor in still air...if they find an ignition source, whoom!

Gasoline is scary stuff--i saw a dealership go up in flames when an ungrounded gas tank was being drained, and a repair shop explode when fumes from a draining gas tank crept across the floor and reached the pilot light of a gas water heater...23 cars lost in this fire, including a Lotus Elan (sob!)

Be careful out there.

mike

[slash02]

1. If you drain the tank while it's in place, be sure and connect a ground strap between the gas tank/body and the drain pan/can--especially if it's metal. (a jumper cable works fine for this)

2. If you pull the tank and then drain it, still use a ground strap.

3. Do this outside, not in a confined area. gas fumes are heavier than air and will creep across the floor in still air...if they find an ignition source, whoom!

Gasoline is scary stuff--i saw a dealership go up in flames when an ungrounded gas tank was being drained, and a repair shop explode when fumes from a draining gas tank crept across the floor and reached the pilot light of a gas water heater...23 cars lost in this fire, including a Lotus Elan (sob!)

Be careful out there.

mike

Fire safety picture of the week:

dont piss around.

Fumes can be a killer. that's what happens when you light a torch around too many fumes etc.

[Senna27]

Gasoline is scary stuff--i saw a dealership go up in flames when an ungrounded gas tank was being drained.

I'm always amazed that muffler shops aren't blowing up on a weekly basis. You see the guys with the cutting torches inches away from fuel tanks and sparks flying everywhere. I suppose if there's no leaks it's fine but it scares the crap outa me!

[steve k.]

gasoline is an interesting item. It is actually not that easy but also not too hard to get it ignited. You just need to have a few things go right. Also gasoline will only explode in vapor form at the correct air to fuel ratio

steve k.

[SteveJ]

As has been said-

Gas vapours can be more dangerous than the liquid.

If you are going for the quality of fuel issue, using a catch pan, remove the drain plug on the bottom of the tank and let it drain for a couple of seconds. Water is heavier than gas, so the water will be at the bottom of the tank.

What I like to do is run the car down to almost empty, then drain out the last gallon or so. After that, turn the key on and make a note where the pointer for your fuel gauge sits. That will be EMPTY. Add in one gallon of gas and see where the fuel guage indicates. No you will have a pretty good idea of when you need to start sweating when running on empty.

Also, if you already have the tank empty, why not pull it out all the way and clean up the rust around the trunk floor, clean the fuel pick up filter, install a new butyl seal around the opening, check all the hose clamps for the filler neck and fuel lines, etc...

[Ebruckbauer]

"install a new butyl seal around the opening,"

Is this a specific part? Or are we talking about using butyl to create a seal? I am confused. Probably because I know almost nothing about anything.

[c.d.iesel]

HOLD ON .......---====S.P.E.E.D.Y !

JUST LOOK UNDER THE RIGHT REAR OF YER CAR -at the bottom of the

gas tank - and look for a drain bolt. Early tanks have an easy

drain bolt instead of all the other suggestions above.

....and do disconnect and insulate yer battery cable ends

to prevent explosions. Wear safety glasses. Have a fire

puteroutter handy. And forget the electrical fuel pump

idea and put yer energy into rust repair. Mechanical Fuel

Pumps Rule.

[Lars]

Looks like you have some sanding to do.

I agree about the electric fuel pump for a regular carbed car. I tried an electric purolater pump, it worked, but not good enough. I left it in with the mechincal one as the main and if I need a back up for any reason I can switch on the electric. (Vapor lock or high RPMs)

[c.d.iesel]

.....here's the top side of dat crusty mess>

[Mike Self]

closed cell stick-on foam tape (hardware store has it--be sure it's marked "closed cell"). If you use a butyl or similar sealer, it'll be the very devil getting the tank out again. It's difficult to insert a knife blade between tank and car body to cut the seal, and butyl sealer will really glue the tank in place.

cheers

mike

[SteveJ]

Closed Cell.

Thanks mike, that IS what I meant.

Go to McMaster-Carr to see what exists in the world of sealant tapes: open, closed, single/double sided adhesives, removable, fireproof, etc...

I used some single sided adhesive closed cell tape from 3M. 1/2 to 5/8 width as I recall.

[ClayW]

Wait! Do I see a snorkel?

I feel an age-old argument coming on!