And yet more 32/36 DGV questions......

[TJs692002]

After a 100% complete disassemble, I chem-dipped the carb along with all the bolts, jets, ect... for a full 24 hrs. When I got home from work last night I pulled the carb out of the chem bath and reassembled it. I installed the carb back on my 69 2002 (e12 head, stock evrything else) and started the car. I once again have perfect idle and still when I push down on the accelerator the motor dies. It sounds like pleanty of air is getting in but not enough fuel is being squirted out. Now with or without the car running, I can step on the gas and I can see the accelertor pump squirting out fuel so that cant be the problem. I have the problem narrowed down to the "accelerator pump cover assembly" typically #34 in any online 32/36 DGV breakdown. When I push down on the lever (opening the diaphragm inside) the car instantly dies. Now this lever arm is pushed down mechanically by a nipple on the end of the primary shaft, when the throttle is engaged the rotation of the primary shaft forces the arm on the accelerator pump to move down and once this happens the diaphragm in turn will open and then the car dies.

Could I be creating some wierd vacuum to where the motor will just die when the accelerator pump should be pumping?

What could be causing this problem? iiI have been wrestling with this project since last Saturday and I really want to find the cure!! Thanks for the advice!!

[Guest Anonymous]

did you reset everything to stock? Also is the car timed correctly? Follow CD's instructions on the FAQ and you should be fine. What's different about your setup than CD's instructions? I'd look into it and start there

best of luck

[TJs692002]

Timing is dead on, I have CD's jetting recommendation installed, the idle speed screw is at 1 1/2 turns out the idle mixture screw is 2 turns out. Eveything is set up correctly by the book. All the jets are ne, I have a new rebuild kit installed, nothing leaks fuel, and the motor just dies when I step on the gas. Could the Carb itself be defective? I just don't know where else to look.

[esty]

i have a quick question, please....other than the idle adjustment screw, is there only one air/idle mix screw for the 32/36...the one on the exhaust manifold side?

[Guest Anonymous]

Sometimes aggressive chem dips can cause oxidation to allum. parts. When you have the car running can you open the throttle slowly? Have you checked all your vacuum lines? do you have a mechanical or vacuum advance dizzy? is it hooked up to the carb or the manifold?

How does the car die? quickly or does it sputter? Is it drivable? Can you SLOWLY accellerate but just not floor it?

[TJs692002]

When I had the solex carb the motor perfectly!! Yes, Esty there is only one idle mixture screw on the carb and it is closer to the exhaust side. I have a vacuum advance dizzy and the vacuum line is connected correctly. No other vacuum lines involved. I can slowly advance the motor to about 2000rpm's which is just before the throttle opens to that magic spot then the car just sputters a bit and dies.

Almost like its not getting enough fuel and as long as I have the throttle floored or wide open then the motor will die. Now when I floor it and the motor starts to sputter and die, as soon as I let off the throttle the motor returns to a nice idle. Another wierd event is that I can open the secondary only and the motor will rev perfectly, but use the primary and the motor dies.

No, I cannot drive the car, I tried to move it and it never gets enough fuel to propell itself, the motor dies when I step on the accelerator. I was able to get some carb cleaner (B-12) and when the throttle is wide open and the car starts to die I spray the b-12 into the carb and she runs. Which points to low fuel or accelerator pump not working, but I can physically see and hear and smell gas squirting out when I open the throttle.

Well it is easy to say that i'm stumped! Thanks y'all for helping me brain storm! Hopefully the fix will be something easy. I miss driving my lil 02!

[mikem]

And, stop giving us the finger! We're trying to help here.

[TJs692002]

The bowl is full (well 1/2 full) when I open up the top. The floats still float and do not have any holes to let fuel leak into the float. Everything works perfectly, well that is until I step on the throttle. Could the carb actually be defective? I didnt think carbs failled but I have been over every little nut and screw in this carb and cant figure it out.

Sorry if I offended anyone with my old avitar. Even though the message was "have a nice day" a big middle finger just isnt very nice. This one should be easier on the eyes!!

[esty]

this is pretty obvious but you did remove the pump diaphragm b4 you dip'd the carb?...i made the mistake once of not and the chem-tool ruin'd the diaphragm

[Lars]

Those could be part of the problem.

But, I've had this issue with my 32/36 also. It took some messing with the idle mixture screw and timing before it went away.

[TJs692002]

Yep, the diaphragm is new (came with the rebuild kit) and I did not leave it in the carb when the carb took its chem bath. The diaphragm looks new, is plyable and should work. I think I might switch back to the original diaphgram to see if that changes anything.

Also my mechanical fuel pump is working (still fills the carb with gas) and all the fuel filters are new.

Do I need to adjust the timing or is top dead center where I need to be with the 32/36? Anything more then 2 turns on the mixture screw makes the motor run poorly so I am pretty sure that is set up correctly.

[Zenon]

The problem is in your primary fuel circuit! So obvious given that it revs OK when you open only the secondary and the accel pump shoots fuel.

In your descriptions of what you did to the carb, you never mentioned blowing through all the passages with compressed air after the "chem dip". I am pretty sure you have not mentioned directly checking/clearing the main jets (especially the primary) or the air corrector jets, emulsion tubes, etc., either. If, in-fact, you only dipped the carb and did not use compressed air to clear it out afterwards, there is a very good chance you will have crud blocking some critical passage or another. You mention stripping it but did you actually remove all the jets when you dipped?

If it idles fine but dies as soon as you get to where the carb's primary main fuel circuit kicks in, then a blocked primary main jet (or associated passages in the carb body) are the likely culprits.

The accel pump squirts into the barrel so I bet it is fine. The observation about how operating the accel pump lever directly will stall the motor is a red herring. At idle the amount of air flow is very small so that extra squirt of fuel is relatively huge and will make the air:fuel ratio waaay rich and likely outside of the combustible range. As you have noticed, the the accel pump is supposed to operate when you opoen the throttle - the air flow is also increased whenever it pumps.

Weber 32/36 carbs are extremely rarely outright defective. They can be worn, dirty, or misadjusted yes... but they have very few moving parts and the basic design offers very few opportunities for leaks. That said, even a really worn carb can work well if it is internally clean and tuned properly, so there is hope for yours.

Hope this helps.

regards,

Zenon

[Zenon]

Another thing - if you removed the auxiliary venturies when you worked on it, did you reinstall the primary one the right way round so the fuel delivery tube lines up with the hole in the carb body? That would be the same effect as a clogged main jet.

regards,

Zenon

[TJs692002]

I had every removeable part out of the carb when it was dipped. All screws, jets, emulsion tubes, air correctors, ect.... everyting was removed before it took a bath. (I also dipped all the parts that I removed off the carb to clean these as well.) None of the jets should be clogged for they are all new never been used jets. After the chem bath I rinsed the parts with water and then used comporssed air to blow through every part that has a hole in it and made sure I could feel the air coming out the other end of the hole to make sure the passage was not blocked. Then I sprayed a lube (like wd-40) on the carb to help protect the metal after the chem bath, and then once again used compressed air to remove all the excess penetrating lube. The carb was rebuilt again using the parts schematic breakdown and I also was deligent in making sure the venturies openings are lined up with the openings in the carb body so fuel will flow between them. This carb shouldnt be giving me this problem. Mabey if I take it apart for the 4th time that will do the trick.

Here is something I just thought about: Are the venturies primary and secondary specific? I did not notice any markings on them to determine the differance. If they are different I might have the venturies flip-flopped around.

[Zenon]

Glad to hear you blew out all the passages, sounds like that part of things is OK.

Don't assume anything about new parts. Remove and make sure you can see light through the bores of the jets. That only takes a few minutes.

The Aux Venturies are physically interchangeable and usually the same caibrated size (usually 3.5) for both barrels but must be installed the right way around, such that the supply tube in the venturie lines-up with the hole in the carb body.

Also, if an aux venturi is very loose, the resulting vacuum leak may not let it suck fuel out of the emuslion tube chamber and into the engine. You can use a bit of pop can as a shim - placed on the side opposite the hole - to make it tight (make a strip that is long enough to hang onto it as you push the venturi in then trim it flush after). Usually, one layer is enough but I have seen one carb where two layers were required. The aux venturis should be snug but you should not need a lot of force to push it in.

When the main fuel circuit is working, you should be able to see fuel dribbling off the bottom of the aux venturi as you rev the engine above 2500 rpm. Wear eye protection when you do this, though, in case it backfires into your face! If fuel comes from anywhere other than the middle of the aux venturi you have a leak.

regards,

Zenon