engine and drivetrain more questions on painting and prepping

[vintage_car]

since I too have spring fever painting syndrome like others on this thread, I wanted to ask a couple questions. I'm planning on pulling my engine for a swap and will be stripping the engine bay. what sort of primer do I need for this since there is more heat in there? is there a special paint that needs to be sprayed in there? I've never used an air gun to spray, but have all the equipment to do this. I want to paint the car also, but think that it might be just a bit to much for me and just prepping the car seems like the thing to do and letting someone with a paint booth do the real painting. I would like to go ahead and have the engine bay painted though so I can just prep the car and drive it to the painters for them to do the body. Is there a middle road brand of primer/paint that can be used. I don't need concourse paint, just a nice daily driver paint job, with the occasional local car show.

[esty]

since I too have spring fever painting syndrome like others on this thread, I wanted to ask a couple questions. I'm planning on pulling my engine for a swap and will be stripping the engine bay. what sort of primer do I need for this since there is more heat in there? is there a special paint that needs to be sprayed in there? I've never used an air gun to spray, but have all the equipment to do this. I want to paint the car also, but think that it might be just a bit to much for me and just prepping the car seems like the thing to do and letting someone with a paint booth do the real painting. I would like to go ahead and have the engine bay painted though so I can just prep the car and drive it to the painters for them to do the body. Is there a middle road brand of primer/paint that can be used. I don't need concourse paint, just a nice daily driver paint job, with the occasional local car show.

it depends on whether you're gonna strip it to bare metal...if so, you need to spray it with epoxy primer to prevent rust....you can leave it indefinately in epoxy primer but it must be scuffed prior to painting, unless it's painted within the manufacturers recoat window...rattle can or lacquer primer won't prevent rust

if you're gonna paint over the old paint, i'd use a single stage...either acrylic enamel with a hardner or acrylic urethane..both are hard as nails

[DukeRimmer]

Primers absorb liquids, that's how they hold the color coat. When left uncovered they absorb oils and any other contaminates to which they are exposed, even moist air. Never prime until you're ready for top coat. Never apply any coating to any surface that is not perfectly clean and void of all gloss, unless you plan to compleatly remove it before doing your real paint work.

[vintage_car]

So should I not prime it and take it to the painters? What about rattle can primer and paint? just for the engine bay not the whole car.

[johnhup]

I did just that. I have plenty of pictures with a little bit of detail. Check the link in my sig

[esty]

Primers absorb liquids, that's how they hold the color coat. When left uncovered they absorb oils and any other contaminates to which they are exposed, even moist air. Never prime until you're ready for top coat. Never apply any coating to any surface that is not perfectly clean and void of all gloss, unless you plan to compleatly remove it before doing your real paint work.

i ususally agree with you but this time i don't....

epoxy primer can sit indefinately, absorbs no moisture...that's why it prevents rust...all you have to do is scuff it with 320 before applying your 2k primer if you wait to long

[canadamatt]

Primers absorb liquids, that's how they hold the color coat. When left uncovered they absorb oils and any other contaminates to which they are exposed, even moist air. Never prime until you're ready for top coat. Never apply any coating to any surface that is not perfectly clean and void of all gloss, unless you plan to compleatly remove it before doing your real paint work.

Epoxy primer is a different animal though, its not like high-build primer.. Just consider the fact that it probably won't have much in the way of UV protection, and may deteriorate faster because of this.

Matt

[vintage_car]

I did just that. I have plenty of pictures with a little bit of detail. Check the link in my sig

what color and brand paint and clearcoat did you use for the engine bay? Was it rattle can from a retail place or a special mix that you ordered?

From the pics the engine bay looks great!

[DukeRimmer]

Let the painters paint it. Rattle can work isn't painting, it's coloring. It should be removed before painting.

[DukeRimmer]

In the old days primers and sealers were not left exposed for long periods.

[FL02]

I just got my car painted over "Self Etching Primer" spray that I got in white from Advance Auto Parts. It was sort of a rolling restoration, and I got it back from the local MAACO, and it looks good, except for a few issues that I should have smoothed out. The car looks 200% better, and cost about $1000 w/ door jams, under the hood and trunk jam all painted. Would have been cheaper for a respray probably. If it's a project I'd say don't worry about it and do your best. You could probably paint it yourself at about $450 in paint + extras, but MAACO type places are pretty cheap, just do a lot of skim coat and block sanding before it's painted.