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Posted

I've just installed new rotors, ss lines, calipers, wheel cylinders, drums and master cylinder on my '76. Using the pressure bleeder from Bav Auto, I've run more than a gallon of fluid through the system.

Using the pressure tank, I've determined that the system will maintain 20psi no problem with the bleeders closed. There are no fluid leaks. I'm getting clean, bubble-free streams when I open the bleeders under pressure, but when I close the system with zero eexternal pressure I still don't have any brakes.

Having bled the car multiple times (always starting at the pass. side rear), this is getting rather frustrating (and expensive)! Any advice is much appreciated. TIA-

JJ

JJ

'76 Sahara

Ireland/TEP/Bilstein suspension mods

Currently for sale

-------------------

in the end she will surely know... i wasn't born to follow

Guest Anonymous
Posted

did you remember to bleed the slave cyl? Do you have any leaks?

Try bleeding the old fashon way if you can get someone to help you. That way you'll at least know that your master cyl is pushing fluid & not the power bleeder

Posted

Did you first bench bleed the master? I know with a pressure bleeder you shouldnt have to but i have been fooled before by air that is trapped in the master. Try benchbleeding the master first. After you bleed the prop valve AND clutch slave.

69 2002 1668997 "Geboren ein Hölle"

Shhhhhh... Another Whispering Bomb!!

Posted

What I ended up doing is while I had the pressure bleeder hooked up (everything set up in the car) I pumped the brakes a few times to clear the air out of the master. That helped a lot in getting better feel for the brakes.

I don't know how someone could truly "bench bleed" the master because it seems all the fluid would leak out anyway while installing it (and get all over your paint).

Matthew Cervi
'71 Bavaria

'18 M2

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