engine and drivetrain Engine run on help.

[rho]

new plugs, rebuilt weber 38... timed @1400 rpm with 002 dizzy.

What is causing the car to continue to run after I shut off the ignition? It does not run smooth but it diesels very rough.

I assume it is caused by incorrect timing, should I advance or retard it..?

thx

[Napes]

solenoid. Electrically closes the idle jet when ignition is switched off. They're available from all the usual suspects (sources). If you've got elec choke carb you can piggyback a 12v source from that wire to the solenoid. It's solved the run-on problem in all 3 of my ' 02s, and I live in So.AZ and drive in 100+ temps regularly in the summer.

[jgerry2002]

Double check timing. Make sure the throttle flap is just barely cracked at idle.

What solved it for me was timing. I was getting a bit of advance at idle.

[rho]

thanks guys... I figured out that the HIGH idle contributed to much of it... now it's tolerable..

the shaft that goes from the firewall to the carb was binding alittle causing the high idle... problem is temporarily solved.

Thanks again.

Robert

[Zenon]

new plugs, rebuilt weber 38... timed @1400 rpm with 002 dizzy.

What is causing the car to continue to run after I shut off the ignition? It does not run smooth but it diesels very rough.

I assume it is caused by incorrect timing, should I advance or retard it..?

thx

What is your idle speed? Too high will always run on. I shoot for 850-900 RPM as a maximum and that is good even without an idle cut solenoid. Don't go too low, though - below 800 is hard on the bearings (low oil pressure) and the electricals will get dim. Usually looks like one needle's width below the 1K mark on the dash tach.

If it won't idle well at that speed, you can perhaps retard the timing a bit. IIRC you have a tii mechanical-advance only dizzy, right? If so, the tii dizzy is supposed to be set so the 25BTDC ball is visible at 2200-2900 RPM, depending on year and market so your present setting is too advanced. If your engine is modified and a mix of parts, then you will have to do some experimenting with timing anyway to find a good compromise between idle and higher rpms. Drive, listen, feel, tweak, repeat... Clockwise is retarded, ccw is advanced.

regards,

Zenon

[Guest Anonymous]

can everyone stop suggesting to check ignition timing to cure a running on or dieseling problem ? this problem happens AFTER the key and thus the ENTIRE ignition system has been disabled. ignition timing has nothing to do with it as, just like Elvis , it has already left the building.

[jgerry2002]

The majority of run on is caused by over advanced timing.By its definition it occurs after the ignition is off.

[Guest Anonymous]

can you SLOWLY explain how a disabled ignition system affects an engine that is dieseling (compression igniting) ? solenoid idle jets that work wouldn't seem to make a difference. when you turn your key off, there is no more ignition , so its timing doesn't matter.

[jgerry2002]

Dieseling is when you get combustion caused by fuel igniting without spark.

Running a car with over advanced timing leads to hotter combustion temps which is then a cataylst for run on/diesling when the ignition is cut.

There are many other factors that can cause diesling too of course. A higher idle leads to more fuel in the combustion chamber at the moment you cut the ignition. Other factors include incorrect spark plugs, carbon build up, and bad fuel (or simply a different formula).