This is for Warren, on timing covers.

[mcmil]

I am in the middle of the same project on my 2000ti. The alternator bracket stud broke off and I am replacing the lower cover.

Pull the battery and the radiator.

You are going to have to remove the rocker cover, the top timing cover. The water pump can stay on the bottom cover or you can remove it seperately. The alternator and brackets need to be removed.

You are going to need to jam up the flywheel to remove the crank pulley. I pulled the starter motor and used a VW flywheel lock but I have seen other ways noted on this board.

Crank pulley has a 30mm nut on it and plenty of torque. I recommend setting the motor to TDC at the number 1 cylinder before locking the flywheel and pulling the pulley. Align the mark on the cam to the mark on the head and you'll be fine.

You can now remove the lower timing cover. Beware of the cam tensioner piston! It is spring loaded and can really fly!

The pan gasket will probably be okay. The head gasket is the one to worry about. A portion of the gasket fits between the upper and lower timing covers and is fragile.

I bought 2 timing cover gasket sets. I figured if I don't do it right the first time, I don't have to wait for more gaskets. Front seals are included and I just pounded it in until it was flush. I recommend test fitting the cover before sticking gaskets on them, just to see that everything aligns as expected.

I am using Black Permatex silicone on all the mating surfaces on the covers. I am also using Permatex Water pump sealant on the pump.

Ther are 2 lower cover gaskets and 2 upper cover gaskets and 1 water pump gasket.

Reassemble in reverse. Be careful while sliding the lower cover under the cam tensioner rail, it can push the gasket out of position. I put the water pump on the cover first, while it was still out of the car, just seemed easier.

I am taking this opportunity to replace the timing chain, rails, piston and spring, as well as all the old radiator hoses. I am swapping in a new M3 starter while everything is apart.

A compentent mechanic with all the parts, pullers and a lift could probably do this in a few hours. It has taken me much longer, because I didn't have everything I needed and am doing extra work.

Give me a shout if you have any questions.

[Guest Anonymous]

terrific answer. thanks for taking the time.

[jimk]

A last note, the tensioner uses oil to hold chain tension, not just the spring.

After installing the tensioner spring and cap, add oil in the oil pocket in the cover (the rocker oil returns normally through the hole in the front of the head and runs down into this pocket). Use something to pry the tensioner against the spring then let it spring out. The oil will suck into the tensioner/spring cavity and purge the air. Add more oil as necessary.

Omitting this step will have the tensioner floating on the spring only till it reloads itself which could be quite a while if the engine is running.

[clc]

the head gasket is a real bugger to protect during the work you're planning to do. its left exposed, hanging out there in space and very easy to break or tear.

what I did when I went through this process (I had to repair a broken alt swing bolt in the block, I have a tii) was I reattached the upper cover during times when it didn't need to be off and saran wrapped the gasket to the bottom of the cover.

unfortunately,I didn't do it soon enough and we tore the gasket. upon re-assembly, we siliconed the snot out of it and its still holding.

good luck