Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Recommended Posts

Guest Anonymous
Posted

apparently they might foul a lot easier in non-FI applications??

I would stick with supers or similar standard plugs.

Posted

I use bosch platnums with a blue coil and no problems even when the valve seals were gone.

Trying to buy back my

75 Sahara

Pertronix, 9.5:1, 294, 40mm Solex, 5 speed, MSD

Posted

They seem to foul quite easily in M10's, especially if the motor is a bit tired and/or out of tune.

Cheers,

Ray

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

Posted

Wonder if you elec fuel pump is 6v or 12?

6v starters are very stout however, they tend to fail by exhibiting less and less torque... On my 1600 I converted to 12v and, just left the starter in place, along with anything else that could be improved by running at 12v (really about 9v.) After driving daily for about 5-7yrs (maybe more?) everything is was still running. Wipers really whip, heater really defogs fast, the cig lighter can light a bob marley sized blunt in 2sec. The blinker relay and high beam relay are really responsive when activated.

The starter motor did fail eventually but, it sure turned over quick while it was working. I still have it. I haven't had the time to check out what failed - it may still work even. When I swapped it for an e28 unit, I recall it may have been the wiring or, the 'noid - I was rushed, and had the other part on hand.

One of the e34 starters are a much better design.

I would highly reccommend upgrading to 12v

The cig lighter alone will amaze you.

Make sure the wiper arms are snug before testing. One of mine nearly killed the gardener's dog - but, thats another story..

good luck,

John McA

Posted

i remember pete mchenry or terry sayther, can't remember who, saying that they had lots of problems with the platinums getting stuck in the blocks or stripping out the threads. i guess there were some issues with the plugs fusing to the block, especially if there was no anti-sieze compound used...but they experienced stuck plugs with and without anti-sieze.

for what it's worth. i use NGKs if possible.

'74 turkis 2002ti(-i)

Posted

the dynamo and brackets get removed as does the voltage regulator - depending on how stock. A std alternator out of a 320i 45-60 amp and new brackets and bushing and hardware from 2002AD would do the trick. I found the rubber bushes do last quite a while but, you can replace them with nylon or delrin(?) right now. the rubber fails around 150K miles and the alt. will rotate its spinning parts forward, into the radiator - ugly and, not fast. You want to get an alternator with internal v. regulator.

This will neaten up the engine compartment.

then battery

buy another 6v if yours is new and wire them together to make 12v and place in trunk with a custom made bracket and marine boxs. If old, make a hot knife nylon rope cutter. I did the cutter.

Optima gel pack (red top - of course)

Then bulbs - all of them including interior light.

Don't forget to pull the instrument cluster. It has thumbknobs (2)

and, a pigtail connector under the dash after you have removed the knee panels - if they are still remaining. Use a later roundie year for your bulb order.

Your electric fuel pump. - this is not stock, so falls into the mystery catagory. There may be other things to keep an eye out for.

Consider installing one of those in pan oil heaters..

A variable electric water pump and 110v immersion heater might be

a great way to preheat the entire engine and passanger compartment.

Just plug in and use a 110v to 12v transformer to circulate the coolent.

Unplug and, drive. Somebody in Australia markets the pump and a thermostat. You can dial up or down the volume of flow - how cool is that?

If you do the above, you want to get an electrical radiator fan. That gets rid of the fan and mechnical water pump.

I would suggest getting new belt. The old one prob. won't fit.

Mount the alternator under the back seat and drive it from the

driveshaft. Use a sectional belt - like they sell for woodworking tools -

to make changing belt less troublesome. And, its red too! Unless you have ac this gets rid of all the belts in the engine compartment. You will be able to idle for short periods of time but will need to keep moving....

Good luck,

John McA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...