engine and drivetrain First Oil Change in my 1600

[Ebruckbauer]

Well, I recently bought a 1600, and I am going to change the oil, it hasn't been done since I have owned it (about 3 months) and has been stored for 2 of those 3. I want to ensure a clean engine, does anyone reccomend some good cleaners I should run through it before putting fresh 20w-50 Castrol in? The car will only be driven in 32F and up temps, and stored in the winter. Is there anything else I should consider before changing the oil? Should I wait until I am ready to drive it again?

[c.d.iesel]

change the oil and filter now

fill with 20w/50 and 1 pint of MARVEL Mystery oil

drive moderatly (no full throttle) for 200 miles - drain,

change oil and filter

refill with 20w/50

change every 1500 miles there after.

[Ebruckbauer]

Sooo, what if I don't want to take it out to run it because of weather? Will a 2002 filter work for the 1600? I have a bunch of filters that are new from prev. owner, do you see a problem in using them even if they were open for a while?

[florida1600]

As long as the oil filter is the spin-on type, 1600 and 2002 oil filters are the same. Filters from the US e21 320i and e30 318i will also work. Use a reputable name brand, i.e., Mann, Mahle, or BMW OEM, but Purolator and Fram are OK too. Don't use a filter that is dented or severly rusted.

[Timmer]

You can also add a little oil to the filter opening itself, prior to putting it on, fill it about halfway.

Tim

'69 2000

[Ebruckbauer]

I am sure it says in the manual, but how much oil should I add if I am using an additive?

[c.d.iesel]

...the 02 motor takes 4 quarts plus 1 pint of oil or Marvel Mystery Oil

..if you have an 'early' 1600 ?, it may have a metal oil filter canister with a paper filter 'element' insert - which is different

than the later 1600 - 2002 which has a 'spin-on' oil filter cartridge.

Look at the car to besure - removing the battery may make it easier for you the first time till you get your 'bearings'.

[Guest Anonymous]

Well, got the Mystery Oil, Castrol GTX, then I tried to start her to warm the oil up before draining. No start. Suprise... It has always been a bit hesitant to start, but this is the longest it has sat. I have Sta-Bil in the tank, and I heard that can make starting more difficult. Any ideas?

[Timmer]

Sta-bil is more/less a fuel preservative, I add some to the gas tank of my 1969 2000 prior to leaving it in the garage for the winter, which is usually late November/early December for me; top off the gas tank and add sta-bil after the car's last drive for a few months. What I also do after putting the battery back in and changing the oil/filter (and this spring I'll renew the spark plugs also) and getting the car ready for it's first drive is add a bottle of "heet" or similar to the gas tank, will help with any moisture that's found it's way into the gas tank/lines while the car has been idle for 4 months or so.

Tim

'69 2000

[Timmer]

The other things are to make sure your ignition parts are all good; if on points, they are clean and have the correct gap, rotor is good, condensor is good and double check that the wire is on snug too, no cracks in the distributor cap and the inside of the cap is ok as well, spark plugs are clean, ignition wires are snug on the both ends, clean fuel filter.

Tim

'69 2000

[Guest Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help guys. My ignition system is the first thing I will tackle today. The distributor and wires are good, its the plugs I am worried about. Any reccomendations other than OEM?

[Timmer]

Most folks use Bosch W7DC or W8DC, the W8DC being the hotter spark plug for Bosch or NGK BP6ES OR BP5ES, the lower number, BP5ES, being the hotter spark plug in the NGK line. I actually ran an autolite copper plug in my 1969 2000 last spring, summer, and fall, gapped at .025, car ran great; for ignition wires, new Bosch wires are on the car, as well as new points, rotor, condensor, and distributor cap being put on after the engine rebuild, about 3k ago. This spring, prior to the first drive of the season, I have a new set of NGK BP6ES's ready to go in. If your 1600 still has the one barrel Solex, as my '69 2000 does, it might be a good idea to clean the idle jet, use compressed air or let it sit in a small cap of carburettor cleaner for a little while. Don't poke anything through it, thin wire, etc..as that will damage the jet.

Tim

'69 2000