Rear window defroster

[Guest Anonymous]

My 1974 has a rear defroster that doesn't. Is there a way to test the element or whatever you call the thin horizontal lines. The fuse is good and there is power to the switch on the dash. Thanks for any help.

[Rob7502]

CHeck with an ohm meter

[BigDog]

They die. Kinda like fairground goldfish. Nothin you can do except replace the grid with an aftermarket one, or get a new glass with one baked on.

Good luck!

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BigDog

'76 2002

[Guest Anonymous]

Basicly if you have rear power to the rear there is no cheap solution. The aftermarket add on style defrosters I have never had much luck with. A new rear glass is the best done right aproach but its expensive. I personaly would buy a real nice rear windo scraper and rock on.

Sam

[ingraham]

If you have about 12 volts there, the wiring is good. If not, trace the wiring back through the switch and fuse. If the voltage is good, carefully unplug one wire to the glass, and measure the current between the wire and the terminal on the glass. It should be several amps -- I don't have the spec, but something in the range 8 to 12 is reasonable. If the current is zero or small, the grids on the glass are worn away, the normal state for most 2002s. A new, not used, rear glass is the only good way to restore the original defrost function.

[JayKehoe]

i have defrost grid on my 72 Inka tii that I never tested. Like the other post advises, do a simple continuity test on the leads to the grid, unpluged, forst, and then, with the grid plugged-in. Mine works, but it is not really put to much of a test in SFO. Good luck- at least your switch and power is good. The wires to the grid are probably good too. Look carefully at the grid itself to see if lines are solid , or parted. I have seen defrost rear windows at swaps, for sale, over the years.