engine and drivetrain Prepping Car for upcoming autocross season...

[Guest Anonymous]

I want to start autocrossing my car this upcoming season. I know its still a while away, but I figure it would be a good time to start prepping. Anyway, My first order of buiness is to either get new tires for my 15 inch rims(current are to big and rub), or get a package of 13 inch rims with small tires. Would either be a better setup over the other? Also, I still have to swap out the front struts, which brings me to my next question. How do you remove the front struts? I was attempting to do it at school using one of the lifts but we couldn't figure it out. I thought it had to do something with the three bolts at the bottom of the strut, but apparently that wasn't it. Also, moving on to engine and transmission. I know I should swap out all the fluids etc., but what about the fact my engine likes belch blue smoke(burning oil on overrun) when up in the revs. Will that be an issue, or just a nuisance? Also, I want to install some extra gauges in the cabin. Im thinking an oil temp gauge and a big tach with shift light, like the ones most people run. Any others I should add in? Also, Im looking for a video camera setup for my Canon ZR-200, what are some good options?

Thanks Alot

Will

[brad_c-ville_VA]

i've always been told that smaller wheels are better for autoX, depending on who you ask, of course. the moment of inertia is less for smaller wheels, so therefore theorhetically you should use less power overcoming it. however, if you get lightweight larger diameter wheels and low profile tires, you should be able to almost match the moment of inertia of a smaller wheel. plus, there are far more tire options for 14" and 15" wheels than 13". the faq's own steve k. is probably the best person to ask about 02 autoX.

the struts come out of the tubes by removing the screw on cap on top of the strut tube. to remove the whole assembly you should be able to undo the top nut, compress the springs and push the tie rod ends out of the pitman arm. the 3 bolts at the bottom hold the ball joint in the arm. if they are the original bolts, they need to be drilled out as they are more rivets than nuts and bolts. the whole assembly should pull out if all that is removed.

i had some friends that used a lipstick camera extension with their vid cam and attached it to the roof of their cars (original mini coopers) using some PVC pipe that was attached to one of those plate glass suction cup handles. sticks right to the roof, no worries.

[Guest Anonymous]

Smaller overall diameter will improve acceleration slightly which is very important in autocrossing. I used 13" with 205/60 Yoks years ago. I am not sure what's available now. Sounds like the valve guide seals are worn but oil burning could also be a result of poor ring compression. You should do a compression test and a leak-down test to get a better idea of engine condition.

Brakes will be the most important factor in autocrossing besides engine tune. I use to bleed my brakes before each event which was once a month. I could also warp the front rotors in one day of autocrossing so I did a brake upgrade using vented rotors from a late model 320i and I also installed the larger rear drum brakes from same car. This was a great improvement.

I also installed a limited-slip differential to give me better cornering performance.

For a beginner I would suggest prepping your car by tuning the engine well, bleeding and prepping brakes and by simply driving. You will see a nice improvement with practice and don't overdrive your car. Sliding the rearend out, overbraking, and driving too hard into turns will lengthen your times. Drive smoothly and you will see faster times.

[KFunk]

Is this your first time autocrossing?

If so, don't worry much about prepping it. Go, have fun, then figure out what you need to do. Only replace stuff thats normal maintenance or dangerous. If your tires aren't rubbing badly, I would forget it, but its your call.

And yeah, my car smokes some too on the track. The other guys just call it the 'James Bond' car because it leaves a smokescreen. It's only a safety issue if you dump liquid oil on the track.

For changing the struts, I didn't even remove those three bolts at the bottom. I popped off the tie rod end, caliper, unbolted the top, compressed the spring a little, pushed down on the top of the strut, and swung the strut housing out so it pointed out toward me. Compress the spring a little more, remove strut bearing at top, and lift spring off. Then use big channel-lock pliers to remove threaded collar at top of strut housing. Change strut cartridge, and put it all back together. No need to remove the bolts on bottom of strut housing.

But I ran a couple autocrosses with dead struts, here's one vid:

http://media.putfile.com/s220050918funk

and here's after I but in Bilsteins/H&Rs:

http://www2.hawaii.edu/~kfunk/2002/Autocross/video629.wmv

I still need big R-tires, LSD, sways, bushings, etc. But its fun enough without them. Don't waste your money and time on mods until after a few tries and you decide what you need to be more competitive. On your first autocross, no matter how good of a car you're driving, you're probably not gonna be competitive with the regulars anyways. Thats OK, just take your time and build up later.

[KFunk]

Oh, and don't worry about the guages. If you ever have the urge to look at any guages, you're probably not driving fast enough.

Depending on how they make the courses in your region, you should only have to shift once, then leave it in 2nd for the whole course. If you ever get a straight big enough to max out 2nd gear, you'll know it. If it worries you, then put in a rev-limiting rotor or something.

I wouldn't worry much about brakes getting hot. A typical autocross course isn't long enough to get the brakes very hot, unless you've got a couple co-drivers repeatedly running the car.

Firm brakes may make you feel better tho. Some regions use stop cones after the finish line, in which you get up lots of speed thru the timing lights, but then have to come to a complete stop before the stop cone, or its a DNF. That usually ends up in a painful screeching stop... and nice brakes make it a little better.

[ToddK]

The first thing you need to address on your car should be safety related items. Check over the ball joints, wheel bearings, and other suspension pieces. Make sure your car doesn't leak any fluids, and make sure everything is bolted down securely. Change your brake fluid and install good pads with a low operating temps. Road racing pads never come up to temp, and won't work. Get a helmet, join the SCCA, and go have fun. Bring your sun screen. You will spend 95% of your day standing around or shagging cones. If you really want to spend money, go with short wide sticky tires. Check the rule book to make sure you don't buy anything that will push you into a higher class. SCCA rules are available at their website.

[rallysmurf]

I want to start autocrossing my car this upcoming season. I know its still a while away, but I figure it would be a good time to start prepping. Anyway, My first order of buiness is to either get new tires for my 15 inch rims(current are to big and rub), or get a package of 13 inch rims with small tires. Would either be a better setup over the other? Also, I still have to swap out the front struts, which brings me to my next question. How do you remove the front struts? I was attempting to do it at school using one of the lifts but we couldn't figure it out. I thought it had to do something with the three bolts at the bottom of the strut, but apparently that wasn't it. Also, moving on to engine and transmission. I know I should swap out all the fluids etc., but what about the fact my engine likes belch blue smoke(burning oil on overrun) when up in the revs. Will that be an issue, or just a nuisance? Also, I want to install some extra gauges in the cabin. Im thinking an oil temp gauge and a big tach with shift light, like the ones most people run. Any others I should add in? Also, Im looking for a video camera setup for my Canon ZR-200, what are some good options?

Thanks Alot

Will

get some of these slick!!!!!

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,268523/

[c.d.iesel]

I'm glad your not waiting till 48 hours before the event!

thats a good start.

OIL PRESSURE (0-150PSI) INSTEAD OF OIL TEMP GAUGE

BRAKES: NEW PADS, ROTORS, DRUMS, SHOES, NO LEAKS FROM

resr brake slave cylinders, no leaks from calipers , all new hoses

everywhere!, and clutch fluid flush

motor and trans mounts : they take a beating! and anything 20+years old will fail - same thing for center drive shaft rubber mount/bearing

steering/suspension: new shock, springs, all new suspension bushings or atleast tight with no cracks. Tire Rods, center link, idler arm bearing, steering gear box oil and free play adjustment

seats: supportive SPORT seats, NOT STOCK SEATS, new seat belts

cooling system: no leaks, tight alternator mounting in correct alignment, new fan belt, radiator in good flowing condition, all hoses fresh, no rubbing, clamps tight

fuel system: all new hoses and clamps, new gas filter, carb tight, throttle linkage return springs intact, linkage free moving, full throttle opening?,

electrical system: brake lights, wipers, starter, charging system, ALL ENGINE WIRING TIGHT, NOT brittle, all connections clean, not weak, witing not frayed, touching, rubbing against body , exhaust, pinched ,

ignition/distributor/spark wiring not laying on exhaust, pinched, broken, brittle, ..............

exhaust system: tight, leak free, not touching body, drive train

have fun, find an experienced technician to assist you, and talk

to your local club members for specifics on the rule your car must meet.

Ask if a Tech Inspection Form is available so your not surprised

the morning you show up to drive.

[Guest Anonymous]

Good info guys, thank you.Also, I want to bring something else to your attention. My oil light likes to come one after hard braking or really hard turning. Is that really an issue, or is it over-sensitive? Due to the nature of an autocross, I would think it could be one. Also, are there any sport seats out there that are relatively inexpensive? Are there any from a particular car I could find at a junkyard that would work?

Thanks Again

Will

[Allenr56]

Before you do anything, go here and download rules http://www.scca.com/Solo/Index.asp?IdS=0012D2-2C39E50&x=050|070&~= .

If you think you might get serious about it, FSP is the class 02's are most competetive, I think EP is pretty dominated by the Honda's. The stock 02 goes to G Stock where it can't even begin to be competitive against the Mini Cooper S, which has been death for every other car in GS.

If you just want to have fun, look at STS. This class was invented for people with mildly modified street cars to come run on street tires (140 treadware rating). This is also dominated by those damn honda's, but at least you won't make a modification that has you running against three rotor miata's on 12" slicks or a carbon fiber lotus.

Pretty much what everyone else has said, make sure the car runs good, suspension is tight, inflate your tires so they don't roll off the rims and have a good time.