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Posted

Should I go with a rebuild kit from Top End Performance and have them do the machine work?.. or have it done locally?

Suggestions on Compression (CA gas, max 91 Octane)? Cam duration, regrind or new (i'm thinking between 280 - 290)? JE Forged Pistons (dome, flat, raised)? Boring? Flywheel? Clutch?

I drive pretty hard... but not long distance... I wouldn't mind a little throaty rumble... but I don't want to have to idle at 1,200...

I am already running Stahl headers, Ansa exhaust, dual Weber 40s... still a 4 speed.. but I think I'm going to keep that for now... all new control arms and linkages... Bilstein sport front & rear ... H&R Springs... 19mm front & rear sway... breaks are stock but recently redone... going to upgrade after I build this...

Please feel free to get as detailed as you want... I want to do this right... and enjoy the work... I'm currently reading Tom Monroe's book... and plan to take time off work to build it with my mechanic... he's agreed to tutor me as we do it together...

post-1038-13667561408454_thumb.jpg

Posted

..yea - repair yer throttle linkage so the carb is opening FULL

against it's FULL OPEN stop. Replace the 30 year old ignition

distributor and set it using a TIMING LIGHT. Rebuild the carb, adjust the valves, and take a road test. Regain the 40 lost horses from maladjustments.23-6264766.JPG

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

Posted

Thanks... running pertronix ignition... and just rebuild both webers.. I'm getting so much blowby that I know I need to rebuild the bottom end.... #3 is just getting by in regards to compression...

Posted

I would go with a 292 Schrick cam, 9.5 pistons, a good balance job, lighten the flywheel and play with the total advance. Should be good for 140 h.p. More if you get a good port job on the head, e12 of course to match the 9.5s.

Posted

former, that's (usually) worn rings; if the latter it's (almost surely) worn valve guides and valve stem seals. But don't just do the head on a high mileage engine; it'll just cause the next weakest link (rings) to start leaking...

The Voice of Experience in that particular arena

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Posted

still got money head work

not broke yet ? stroker crank rods and pistons

2400 ccs+ circa 24 inches

I had a2200 hold on 300 alpina cam dual 40's nice

tii touring in 75, on the Abahn in Europe 1975 to 1978, 74 Red Baron 1986( still with my kids)

Green culb racer and Malga Auto left the family

Left w/ a 1976 beater/5 sp/AC in 2004 not on the road yet & Its All I have left

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