Powdercoat vs. POR-15

[2002maniac]

Ok, I was just about to send a whole bunch of parts to the powdercoater and I saw a post on s14.net where a guy claimed that POR-15 is a better alternative than Powdercoating.

Can anyone compare the two in Rust inhibition, chip resistance, chemical resistance, and longevity?

How much will I need to coat my subframes, all suspension components, pedal box, and a billion other assorted brackets and parts?

Thanks!

[slash02]

It will stand up more then POR...

[canadamatt]

I have had a few things powercoated, and would not do it again. I'd rather go Por. Why?

- you can do it yourself

- if the prep for powercoat isn't PERFECT, you'll see it.

- when the powercoat cracks, and moisture gets behind it, you are screwed. with por, you just sand down and re-apply

- um, thats it.

Thats my only real beef with powercoating. IF it starts to go, you have to strip the entire piece and re-do it. So in the case of my powercoated trailing arms...I just ended touching it up with por.

btw, my powercoated trailingarm in the pic, you can see the rust at the base of the spring perch; even though the arms were sandblasted 10times over, and powercoated right after. That spot was less than perfect apparantly..

Matt

[2002maniac]

Thanks Matt. It looks like you've got bigger problems than a little rust on that trailing arm

Is that when you hit a curb?

[canadamatt]

Um, I don't know what you are talking about. I would never hit a curb. T-bone it totally sideways, maybe

RIP to that trailing arm..

Matt

[BigDog]

It's worth it. Find a reputable shop who does good media blasting as prep... You won't beleive how durable powdercoat is. If you have a bad shop, maybe not so much, but then you probably didn't pay enough either...

I had my last kart chasis powdercoated by a local guy, and it held up amazingly well. Despite being bottomed out, all the flex that goes through a kart chasis, dropping, spinning off the course, everything, and the stuff was tough as nails. It didn't crack until I had a wreck that tore the front corner off the kart. And even then I wonder if the powdercoat was stronger than the welds that got torn in 3 directions!!!

------------

BigDog

'76 2002

[BillWilliams]

I never compared the two although it is fare to do so. I have always thought of them in different applications, however, I can see they can be used in some same applications.

I powdercoat intake manifolds, diff covers and brackets. I did have the subframes powdercoated too. I use POR on things with seals that can not be powdercoated and need to be brake fluid and fuel proof.

If I had to guess, POR properly applied may be a more long term solution to rust. THey are both good products/techniques. The prep for powdercoat is twice as involved though, bare metal and properly cleaned.

It is cool to paint over rust with POR and it looks half way good.

I believe if I wanted the component to look real good, I could get if off of the car, had no seals or rubber parts, I may powdercoat, many colors to choose from. Other situations may lead me to POR, their products are very good. The only problem I have with POR is painting cylindrical components, it seems to run easily since they designed it to be self leveling. Flat services paint much easier.

[Jack]

I think I'm with Bill. Both have their apps. Keep in mind that POR-15 is UV sensitive and if exposed to light for long periods it will break down. they have chassis black (which looks great too)and other colors to cover it. I'm a big fan of POR15. As with powdercoating, or any covering, proper prep is critical.

[BillWilliams]

Wurth has a product that is identical on the spec sheet as POR 15. Some Body shops are using these products as a primer with excellant long term results. There is an intermediate steps they have to do before they paint.

One shop I spoke to say that Wurth or POR 15 primed cars have never rusted. Other products he has used, he claims will allow rust to form overtime.

[ToddK]

Just a little advice about powder coating. Never coat anything that is soldered as the heating process melts the lead solder. 50/50 solder melts at around 375 F degrees and pure lead melts at around 625 F degrees. A friend of mine tried to do a copper expansion tank once. Not a pretty sight.

[febler02]

Considering that the original black paint on the undercarriage held up pretty well over the years when nobody cared how it looks, either pc or por-15 should last another 25-30 years with reasonable care of your car.

What nobody here mentioned is that you can do both if you are really worried about it. Powedercoat can be applied over paint if the paint itself will survive over 400 degrees. It seems you could use the hi-temp POR-20 as the first layer and powdercoat over that. I would ask the people doing the work if they have any recommendations for it.

[alp]

most people wouldn't do the mix because of the expense of each process I would think. Ihave seen powdercating done but not too much of POR-15. I have not always been happy with the look of powdercoat-can look thick, rippled texture type look. A painted surface (by air not brush) usually looks very nice and clean.

[slash02]

Um, I don't know what you are talking about. I would never hit a curb. T-bone it totally sideways, maybe

RIP to that trailing arm..

Matt

Matt, I almost did that friday night in the E28, making a turn and there was some ice, and the cat started sliding! Imanaged to get it under control inches before bumping the curb. Its all good