Pilot Bearing Removal Problems - It's Out!!

[Sam_in_VA]

I used the modified (with a grinder) autozone tool. It took about 15 minutes of grinding and about 4 wacks with the slide hamer to get it out. One thought, though... the BavAuto tool had pulled the needles out already, so the inner diameter was larger. This tool might be too large to pull an intact bearing without a lot of machining.

Thanks to everyone... this board is great!!!

I am having a problem removing the pilot bearing on my '76. It has the smaller diameter needle bearing model... I don't know if came that way or if it's a retrofit. I tried all of tyhe removal tricks on this and the other board and it wouldn't budge; so I bought a removal tool from BavAuto. The tool pulled the guts out of the bearing, but the outer portion stayed in. the tool won't budge this part. I was able to tap in inward about a mm in hopes that it would free it for removal, so it isn't stuck, but it won't come out.

Any removal ideas? I also have the larger diameter ball bearing model and dustcaps, so removal of whatever changes it to the needle bearing diameter would work too

[jdp530]

Its been so long since I have done that job, don't remember how I got that outer race out. Can you use a dremel with a very small carbide or diamond bit and cut it?

[2002]

This is a very hard bearing to remove without a good bearing removal tool. The last time mine was removed I took the crank to a machine shop and had it done. They had a tool similar to the BavAuto tool, and it came out in several pieces. If the crank is still in the engine and/or in the car your options are limited. I would not recommend pushing the bearing further into the crank, that make make it near to imposible to remove. Sorry for the bad news.

[Zenon]

The interference-fit, hardened-steel outer race of the bearing is tough to remove by design but usually the needle rollers and cage will just about fall out (which is convenient, actually). The needle roller style pilot bearing is correct for a later car and in any case can only be replaced with same.

The impact force of the slide hammer is way more force than the screw puller can develop. It should remove it in around 10 solid whacks (my direct recent experience with a ~5lb slide). Here's an example of a suitable tool (2lb set's pic was the best though I would recommend a heavier one):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5469

All you need is a simple single hook but the two- or three-jaw internal bearing puller dealies could be better (if they fit). With a single hook, it may help to have a third hand jam a large flat screwdriver in alongside the hook to keep it in position on the edge of the bearing race.

If you have a slide hammer but no hook, you can perhaps use a ~4" bolt of a thread and diameter to fit the hammer's interchangeable end (you may need a female coupler to make it work) The shoulder under the bolt head is the hook. Of course, it may need creative grinding to fit into the bearing. Use a high-grade bolt or the shoulder will probably round off quickly.

As Steve has warned, DO NOT try to drive the bearing in to break it loose. If you run out of space to get a hook in behind, you will be very fooked.

Partly for the same reason, be sure not to drive the new bearing in too far. Use the old outer race as a drift for installing the new bearing. Only apply force to the new bearing's outer race or it will be ruined.

BTW, I have tried the grease/piston technique that Haynes mentions and for me it has worked for the bushing in the tranny end of a 320i driveshaft, but never on a crank pilot bearing. It does do a great job of giving you a NLGI #2 facial, though.

regards,

Zenon

[meyekel]

i used a j hook bolt from a battery tie down. the threaded part is about 7 inches long and the j fit fairly snugly inside the race. i used the screw method and out it came.

mike r

[02fanatic]

You are going through exactly what I endured with Hugo's pilot bearing removal...most pilot bearing removal tools are TOO BIG, and the Bav Auto tool is "crap"!...mine broke and did the exact same thing yours did...only removed some of the needles!

GO to an Autozone and borrow a slide hammer...won't cost you a thing! If the guy is cool he will allow you to do what I did...the tips of the grips need to be "ground down" a wee bit to allow the tool to go into the bearing. I ground down the tips on my bench grinder so the tips would go through the pilot bearing and then working the slide hammer & it popped right out.

The BIGGEST problem with this procedure is finding a tool that "fits" through the bearing. Another option that I didn't actually try would be to get a concrete anchor bolt and try tightening it, when the anchor spreads the bearing may come out...others have had success with this method.

I liked the slide hammer though...very easy!

One thing I don't agree with previous posts is that only late model '02's ahve the needle type pilot bearing. My early '72tii had the needle-style. Actually, I think it is the other way around...the wider ball bearing pilot bearings are in the late model '02s...but I really do not know for certain...only that it seems to vary from car to car.

Good luck,

John

[ifayeoh]

in car try the slide hammer mentioned.

machine shop will have the carbide bit to get it slit then removed.

i had the same issue.

[Sam_in_VA]

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I got the Autozone tool and it is much more substantial looking. I have yet to try it (fanily obligations), but I'm pretty sure it will work after grinding. Its only $18, so I'll keep it afterwards and return the impotent one to BavAuto.

Sam