mechanical to electric fuel pump

[bustedole]

I'm considering changing the mechanical fuel pump on my 76 2002 to an electric model. Does anyone have suggestions on brand? Or even if I should do this. Do they make a plate to cover the mechanical fuel pump hole once removed? I guess I could fabricate one...

What do you think?

Thanks.

Matt

[c.d.iesel]

PUT YOUR TIME, MONEY, and ENERGY

into other repairs or maintainence area.

The mechanical fuel pump is simple,

quiet,

lasts 30+ years,

reliable,

efficient,

no wires,

no extra holes/brackets/mounts/hoses/leaks.....

my happy Road & Track 1976 2002>

[esty]

they're inexpensive, easy to install and i think someone sells a cover plate for the mechanical in the store

personally...i don't like the appearance of the mechanical sticking out

[BigDog]

Delivers nice volume and pressure. Downside, it's a little noisy, but I"m working on what might be an air leak causing the noise.

I mounted mine up front under the hood where the battery used to be, using the 'hard line' as a supply from the tank, with no return line.

Available from Summit Racing at $30 less than TEP

Or you can go with a smaller rotaty style pump which will fit in the trunk, under the board, behind the gas tanks. I think piercemanifolds sells one like that, tube shaped...

Good luck.

---------------

BigDog

'76 2002 Weber DCOE40s

[garya]

I struggled with fuel pumps for a couple years because my head is not set up for a mechanical one. I went through 4 or so different ones before I finally came up with a good combination. Stick with the one that was engineered for the car if you can. The pressure will be correct, you won't have to drill holes or re-run fuel lines and they last forever.

The combination I found for my '72, in case you still are interested, is the following:

E30 318i fuel pickup/guage from junkyard.

Chevy Vega in-tank fuel pump grafted onto 318i pickup (cheap from Checker/Krogen/AutoZone).

Holley fuel pressure regulator.

Return line using later 2002 model vacuum activated return valve.

E30 318i fuel pump relay for safety (only allows FP to run when starter is engaged or when there is signal from the tach).

Hope that helps.

Gary

[Pierre]

The mechanical pump works well, is readily available, is fairly inexpensive, and super reliable.

More importantly, if you install an electric pump, you have to find a way to have the pump shut off when the engine dies. This is usually done by running a relay from the oil pressure sensor. The reason is that if you get into an accident, you don't want your fuel pump to keep running. Of course, the problem is that you have no oil pressure at start up. Therfore, you have to wire it in a way to override the relay during start-up. It can be done. But it's a lot of work, and there are no benefits. I presonally don't like the look of the pump in the trunk either. It looks tacked on.

Good luck.

[bustedole]

OK, I won't. I've just been losing pressure in my fuel line and thought that maybe it was the mechanical fuel pump. I figured I'd just replace it with an electric and be done. Thanks for the words of advise.

Thanks.

Matt

[Mike Self]

advantage to an electric pump is if the car has been sitting for a long time, the electric pump will fill the carb much faster than a mechanical pump--presuming you don't have a dead battery.

Or, if you're a belt and suspenders kind of guy, install an electric pump with a toggle switch--use it for priming and in case the mechanical pump dies on the road. But that's hardly worth the effort, as mechanical pumps last a looooooong time.

cheers

mike

[Mike Self]

1. the plastic line that runs thru the passenger copartment rarely goes bad; check it last.

2. mechanical fuel pumps must have a good vacuum to pull against--a loose hose clamp (or porous rubber fuel line) will allow air into the system and since the mechanical pump sucks (rather than pushes) it's not gonna work very well. So check all the sections of rubber fuel line upstream of the pump--in the engine compartment and back by the gas tank. The short rubber section that connects the fuel pickup at the tank with the plastic fuel line is probably original--and cracked. If it's still the braided cloth-covered line, replace it just on general principles.

3. Make sure any in-line filters are clean, including the screen at the bottom of the fuel pickup/sender unit in the gas tank. If it's all plugged up, your fuel flow will be affected.

4. Make sure the gas tank vent is functioning. If you hear a hiss or whoosh when you remove the gas cap, the vent is plugged and the fuel pump will have a hard time pumping against the vacuum (that's too much vacuum)

happy troubleshooting

mike

[roundtail]

Mike, I know this is an old post. I have a question to you reguarding this issue. I recently removed the electric fuel pump I installed many years ago and went back to a mechanical pump I found in the "archives". The 2002 will NOT start until I prime the weber and then It purrs like a new born kitten. I have purchased a new fuel line from bluntech but the problem still persists. Thank is in nearly pristine condition. sending unit appears to also be in great shape. I really want to keep the mechanical pump but cant deal with priming every startup. Any advice you could give would be most appriciated.  Rob Jay

[stephers]

Here is the set up I installed into a 70 ti         Set up is as close to the original set up that could be ordered by the factory.     My next door neighbor made up some new decals for it.   Installed a roll over / impact switch that is resetable    Puts out 3 lbs pressure and enough volume

 

 

Thanks, Rick

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

3 hours ago, roundtail said:

The 2002 will NOT start until I prime the weber

 

Have you tried blowing backwards through the pump to see if the check valve is working?

 

Some pumps don't hold the prime well and the fuel will run back to the tank.  Any air leak in the pump feed line will also let it drain back. 

 

Sometimes adding a check valve to that line can help.  There are a lot of threads discussing them.  I see one in Rick's first photo, tucked in next to the wheel well.

Tom

[TobyB]

And from an older series of threads, the fuel filter should go on the pressure side of the fuel pump.

 

I know this seems wrong, but air in the filter (and they all seem to collect air) acts as a spring,

reducing the pump's ability to draw fuel from the tank.  So the screen in the tank keeps junk out of

the pump, and the filter AFTER the pump keeps finer debris out of the carb.

 

The art of the mechanical pump is dying- good for you in keeping it alive!

t

 

[roundtail]

I will try repositioning the in line fuel filter AFTER the pump. Hopefully that works very frustrating

[Son of Marty]

Some electric fuel pumps are pull through capable so you can just plumb it into your rubber fuel line near the tank and wire it to a momentary switch and prime when you need it otherwise let it run on the mechanical pump.