battery, electrical, or cold?

[vintage_car]

On a fully charged battery and a few pumps on the gas pedal the car is turning over after holding the key over for about 30 seconds. How can you tell if the starter is going or not, that may be my 1st issue. If I let my car sit for 3-4 days and come back out it is a little more difficult to start, but then today I just killed the battery trying to start it, it doesn't have enough juice to turn it over. So with the car being out in the cold is it just cold that is affecting it or do I have some sort of short somewhere creatng this drain. The battery tests good at the auto shop and takes about an hour for them to charge it, and it will do the same thing in about 2-3weeks. My red indicator light doesn;t show any tattle signs of charging issues. I have replaced the altenator and the voltage regulator and the battery. Do I need to get a trickle charger?

[ridr4lif]

I had a similar issue with my car. It would start right up once the car was warmed up, but it never wanted to start when cold. But as soon as i got a jump from someone, it would usually start right up. Batteries, when cold put out way less CCA's then when warm. A trickle charger may help.

[vintage_car]

That was my thinking, b/c I can jump mine and she fires right up. I just wondered why it drained the battery so much when cold. Anyone have a solution for this? Higher CCA from a different battery maybe?

[Mike Self]

'cause it ain't gonna heal itself. I've had good luck with a group 26R battery--more CCA than a group 42 and fits fine.

Also have your alternator tested for output, and the starter tested for excessive current draw. Most auto supply shops (Auto Zone etc) will do this for free.

And, of course make sure all your battery terminals/connections (+ & -) are clean and tight...after a bunch of cranking, dirty ones will be warm/hot to the touch.

BTW it was +7 here this morning...

mike

[vintage_car]

Well I have had the altenator and battery tested. I haven't had the starter tested yet. Gues I will do that when I take the battery to Auto Zone to charge my battery. When they test the battery it does a load test automatically. Everything tests fine, it always has that is what is so frustrating. I'll go home put jumper cables on the car and let it sit for a bit and it will fire right up. I'll let it sit for a few days in the cold and I will drain the battery trying to start it. It just doesn't make sense. I understand it may be more difficult to start with the 40 DCOE's, but it should be near impossible.

[Mike Self]

system somewhere...Is there an aftermarket alarm system or some sort of high powered sound system (where an amp might be left on all the time)?

Or...

does your starter seem to turn slowly and make a bit of a squealing or "eeeeeeeping" sound? If so, the rear armature bushing may have come adrift from its plastic sleeve and is now turning with the armature. That will put excessive drag on the starter and cause it to (1) turn slowly, especially when cold and (2) draw more current. If the rest of the starter motor is OK you can make a replacement bushing the eliminates the plastic sleeve (which isn't available from Bosch) but you have to remove the starter motor. If you decide to go this route, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you instructions.

cheers

mike