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Guest Anonymous

do we need a brake booster?

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Guest Anonymous

2002sm.jpg

porsche 914 do not a brake booster and their stopping is OK without it. Anyone ever see an '02 without one?

i am just full of new topics today :)

discus among yourself.

steve k.

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Guest Anonymous

pedal config. they hinged from above and, had master clys on the inside of the fire wall.

I don't think they were vacuum boosted either, they had a longer leverage though.

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Guest Anonymous

02flash6.gif

(nt)

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Guest Anonymous

Drive some where safe, go fairly fast, kill engine then see what you think of the brakes(essentially without a booster)

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Guest Anonymous

If you've ever installed the check valve in the booster hose backwards (me: guilty as charged!) - you KNOW how stiff that ole pedal gets. For a street car - I'd hate it. Also consider how flimsy the pedal bracketry is - all that strain on that ONE bolt in the pedal box would just be asking for trouble if you ask me.

I'd love to eliminate that big horkin' thing...but couldn't justify it on a daily use kind of 02.

Paul

MAximill...

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Guest Anonymous

(nt)

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Guest Anonymous

'68 1600 booster replacement hard to find. Just pulled the old one and tossed it. Never noticed any significant diff. Running two '02s at the same time so should have noticed any diff.

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Guest Anonymous

Most of the advice about evaluating a boosterless setup recommends that you unplug the booster hose and see how the car stops. This is misleading because there's a big honkin' spring inside the booster, and you're fighting it when you step on the brake without the hose connected. The boosterless setup would eliminate that spring, reducing the effort required by a few pounds.

Also, the real solution would be to resize the master cylinder to a longer stroke with smaller bore. This would preserve the total volume of fluid being moved and keep the system pressure the same, but reduce the force applied at the pedal (in exchange for longer travel). Of course you'd have to make sure that the linkage allowed for full travel of the pedal, but there's actually quite a bit of range in the pedal mechanism that's not used by the stock setup. The pedal will ride a little farther out from the firewall if you increase the travel distance.

Also notice that the brake pedal is actually rather short. Increasing the length of the pedal would also reduce the necessary applied force, at the expense of longer throw. This could be done with or without MC resize.

And no, the brake linkage is not too flimsy to withstand boosterless operation. That bolt through the brake pedal is big, and you can always move up to hardened fasteners. You need to make sure that the sheetmetal in the bottom of the box isn't rusted away.

I'm setting up a boosterless system in my '74, but don't hold your breath for results. I've got a lot of bodywork to do before the car will be back on the road, and I've got way too many house projects on my list.

Mike

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Guest Anonymous

to get pressures up a bit. As Paul said, without the booster, initial bite is not so impressive.

But with Teflon hose, and some careful testing, I bet it could be done, and probably not be too expensive, once the details were worked out.

There are a bunch of cars (Volvo 122, Datsun roadster, VW type III, etc) that have similar weights, similar brake systems, and no booster.

Toby

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Guest Anonymous

2002sm.jpg

I have the full big brake upgrade installed on the car: gerling calipers, 320i rear drums + cyclinders and Tii maaster cylinder.

Does it mean that installing a standard MC should improve the braking without the booster over the Tii MC?

steve k.

brain fried mode

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Guest Anonymous

Did it and it scared the hell out of me.

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