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Whats the link for the E30 battery cable install?

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Guest Anonymous


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Guest Anonymous


BUT here is his RAW, unedited text, for your perusal!!

How To Use your E30 shit:

Materials List:

E30 battery cable (check)

E30 distribution block

E30 starter cable

E30 battery cable grommet or regular grommet

NAPA small marine battery box

4' - 1/8"x3/4" aluminum angle

6 - 3/4" long stainless steel machine bolts, washers, and nylocks.

~30" 2 gauge side-post terminal battery cable

~15" 2 gauge top post battery ground cable


Dremel with cut-off wheels and grinding stone.

Drill with bits the size of the SS bolt you choose.

Auger bit

Ok, step one: Pick a spot to drill a hole for the battery cable to enter the

engine room. I chose that weird angled surface right above and behind the

clutch pedal, where it touches the firewall when depressed. Now, this is

where you can decide whether you want to cut an oval hole like I did to fit

the E30 grommet, or make it easy on yourself and use a regular grommet. I

needed to borrow a sheet metal auger bit from a machinist friend, I guess

they cost alot of money, so you might want to consider that. Now, if you're

taking the E30 grommet road you'll want to hold up the E30 grommet *from

both sides* of the firewall and make sure there is room to cut. If you have

a late car there isn't much choice; it's pretty crowded. Hold up the grommet

and trace around the shape and try and find the center points of the radius'

as best you can. Now buy, borrow, or steal a sheet metal auger bit that's

slightly smaller than the waist of the grommet. Drill pilot holes for the

auger bit. Cut the radius' with the auger bit and use the dremel to open up

the two holes where they cross each other, so you have an oval the same

shape as the E30 grommet. Good job, this was the hardest part.

step two: Whip out the aluminum angle, and cut four pieces to surround the

base of the small marine battery box. Drill holes in each piece for the SS

machine bolts, one at each end. Now, measure the width of the strap that is

included with the battery box. Use the dremel cut-off wheels to cut a slit

in the center of the two longest pieces of aluminum angle for the strap to

lace through and get a strong hold on the battery box once the aluminum is

bolted to the trunk floor. Now say to yourself, "I like long sentences."

step three: Center the battery box in your trunk with the ports for the

battery cable facing towards the rear of the car. Surround the base of the

box with the four pieces of aluminum angle so it is tight, this will prevent

the box from sliding when your driving around the city like a mad-man. Drill

holes in the trunk floor to match the aluminum bolt holes, being aware of

the diff hanger reinforcement underneath the trunk floor. Bolt down the

aluminum angle with the battery box strap laced through the slits.

step four: Run the E30 battery cable through the rectangular hole above the

drivers-side rear wheel well and slide the plastic protector sleeve over

that portion of the cable. Now take it through the back seat bulkhead down

by the seat belt reel/mounting point. Then go through that little tunnel in

the seat rail and up and over to the grommet in the firewall.

step five: Mount the E30 distribution block. I chose to bolt it onto the

washer bottle holder right above the brake booster. The holes line up

perfectly with the distribution block mounting bolts. If you are using your

washer system or you have an early car, you might want to mount it on the

drain gutter sheet metal, you know what I'm talking about. Bolt the tapered

lug end of the E30 battery cable to the distribution block and then remove

the stock starter cable and engine block to battery ground. Take the E30

starter cable and run it from the tapered lug end of the battery cable at

the distribution block to the starter (relay). File the non-recessed side of

the side-post terminal end of the cable you bought so it's nice, flat, and

shiny. This is going to rest against the block and provide a block to

chassis ground. You might want to scrape the rust off the block where the

stock ground cable was bolted on. When I did this, the bolt that was in the

block fit prefectly through the side-post terminal end, and the washer fit

perfectly inside the recess in the terminal end, so just bolt that end of

the cable to the block. Find a nice nest for the other end of the new block

ground. I chose to bolt to the common chassis ground point right next to the

relays. If your car doesn't have this, then take off an upper strut bearing

nut and sand off some paint around the bolt, then bolt it to there with the

strut bearing nut.

I think you can figure the rest out. When your done go get wasted and make a

fool of yourself to the little kids nextdoor.

Thanks and Rock On,

Elliot Goldstein





p.s. YES I will FAQ this into an article SOON, along with a bunch of other shit...... BUT I HAVE TO FINISH MY CAR TOO!!! ;) -Rob

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