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Guest Anonymous, June 22, 2002
BUT here is his RAW, unedited text, for your perusal!!
How To Use your E30 shit:
E30 battery cable (check)
E30 distribution block
E30 starter cable
E30 battery cable grommet or regular grommet
NAPA small marine battery box
4' - 1/8"x3/4" aluminum angle
6 - 3/4" long stainless steel machine bolts, washers, and nylocks.
~30" 2 gauge side-post terminal battery cable
~15" 2 gauge top post battery ground cable
Dremel with cut-off wheels and grinding stone.
Drill with bits the size of the SS bolt you choose.
Ok, step one: Pick a spot to drill a hole for the battery cable to enter the
engine room. I chose that weird angled surface right above and behind the
clutch pedal, where it touches the firewall when depressed. Now, this is
where you can decide whether you want to cut an oval hole like I did to fit
the E30 grommet, or make it easy on yourself and use a regular grommet. I
needed to borrow a sheet metal auger bit from a machinist friend, I guess
they cost alot of money, so you might want to consider that. Now, if you're
taking the E30 grommet road you'll want to hold up the E30 grommet *from
both sides* of the firewall and make sure there is room to cut. If you have
a late car there isn't much choice; it's pretty crowded. Hold up the grommet
and trace around the shape and try and find the center points of the radius'
as best you can. Now buy, borrow, or steal a sheet metal auger bit that's
slightly smaller than the waist of the grommet. Drill pilot holes for the
auger bit. Cut the radius' with the auger bit and use the dremel to open up
the two holes where they cross each other, so you have an oval the same
shape as the E30 grommet. Good job, this was the hardest part.
step two: Whip out the aluminum angle, and cut four pieces to surround the
base of the small marine battery box. Drill holes in each piece for the SS
machine bolts, one at each end. Now, measure the width of the strap that is
included with the battery box. Use the dremel cut-off wheels to cut a slit
in the center of the two longest pieces of aluminum angle for the strap to
lace through and get a strong hold on the battery box once the aluminum is
bolted to the trunk floor. Now say to yourself, "I like long sentences."
step three: Center the battery box in your trunk with the ports for the
battery cable facing towards the rear of the car. Surround the base of the
box with the four pieces of aluminum angle so it is tight, this will prevent
the box from sliding when your driving around the city like a mad-man. Drill
holes in the trunk floor to match the aluminum bolt holes, being aware of
the diff hanger reinforcement underneath the trunk floor. Bolt down the
aluminum angle with the battery box strap laced through the slits.
step four: Run the E30 battery cable through the rectangular hole above the
drivers-side rear wheel well and slide the plastic protector sleeve over
that portion of the cable. Now take it through the back seat bulkhead down
by the seat belt reel/mounting point. Then go through that little tunnel in
the seat rail and up and over to the grommet in the firewall.
step five: Mount the E30 distribution block. I chose to bolt it onto the
washer bottle holder right above the brake booster. The holes line up
perfectly with the distribution block mounting bolts. If you are using your
washer system or you have an early car, you might want to mount it on the
drain gutter sheet metal, you know what I'm talking about. Bolt the tapered
lug end of the E30 battery cable to the distribution block and then remove
the stock starter cable and engine block to battery ground. Take the E30
starter cable and run it from the tapered lug end of the battery cable at
the distribution block to the starter (relay). File the non-recessed side of
the side-post terminal end of the cable you bought so it's nice, flat, and
shiny. This is going to rest against the block and provide a block to
chassis ground. You might want to scrape the rust off the block where the
stock ground cable was bolted on. When I did this, the bolt that was in the
block fit prefectly through the side-post terminal end, and the washer fit
perfectly inside the recess in the terminal end, so just bolt that end of
the cable to the block. Find a nice nest for the other end of the new block
ground. I chose to bolt to the common chassis ground point right next to the
relays. If your car doesn't have this, then take off an upper strut bearing
nut and sand off some paint around the bolt, then bolt it to there with the
strut bearing nut.
I think you can figure the rest out. When your done go get wasted and make a
fool of yourself to the little kids nextdoor.
Thanks and Rock On,
p.s. YES I will FAQ this into an article SOON, along with a bunch of other shit...... BUT I HAVE TO FINISH MY CAR TOO!!! -Rob
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