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Guest Anonymous

Help me get it started!

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Guest Anonymous

I've finally got everything back together (rebuilding head, etc.), but now I can't get it to fire.

I think it may be something electrical, but I don't know much about these systems. I had tried to set the point gap while it was apart, but was just hoping it'd all come back together somehow and fire a little until I could tune things. I've set it so that the rotor points to the #1 wire when #1 is at TDC.

I sprayed a bunch of starting fluid into intake, and nothing. I tried getting the #1 wire to arc to block, but nothing. I had pulled the distributor cap to see if points look ok, and they were still sparking a little (after engine was off). I've tried rotating the distributor and points all around, but nothing.

Help me narrow it down please.

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Guest Anonymous

1 wire connected to condensor

2. condensor good

3. coil wires snug in insulators

4. #1 cylinder at TDC for sure tested with cylinder whistle or crank mark under valve cover

5.center contact in distrubutor cap in good shape

6. Rotor in good shape

7. wires from distributor going to plugs in the order indicated on the valve cover

8. coil is good.

9 wires to starter relay on in the proper way

10 all of the coil wires and ballast resistor wired properly

aloha

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Guest Anonymous

not the crank, under the valve cover. The mark should be centered on the rocker arm shaft to be @ TDC of #1 cylinder.

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Guest Anonymous

OK, most of those are good in my opinion, except I haven't figured out yet how to judge #2, and #8-10.

I just got some contact cleaner and files, filed off the points and all connections and blasted them out with contact cleaner. Still no fire...

Spray starter fluid should make some kinda noise, even if its way off on timing, right?

My fuel system hasn't primed yet, as looking through the fuel filter, wonder why?

For 9 & 10, everything is the way it is when I took it apart. Three little wires plugged into coil. One of those wraps around and goes to points in distributor. One must go to battery, and other I don't know. Besides those and the plug wires, how much else is there?

Could somebody give me a really dumb explanation how to test my coil and condenser?

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Guest Anonymous

(nt)

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Guest Anonymous

want to consider an overhaul of the electrical system that includes new points, plugs and condenser. This should ensure the credibility of the electrical components. I am not sure how to tell you to test the coil, there has been several posts on that in the past. Maybe a good Google search will turn that up.

Please verify you are positive you are not 180 degrees out of time. To do that, you have to pull the valve cover and verify the slot on the cam is in alighment with the oil tube and the distributor is aligned with the mark on the distributor housing. Then if your wires are correctly connected to the plugs in the correct order, if you have fuel, the car should fire. I take it this is a carburated car?

To ensure proper wiring to starter relay, you may need to consult a wiring diagram of see if there is another car around to use as a model. If that doesn't work, maybe someone who is real good with that can chime in. I have been running an electronic ignition for so long, I do not have that wiring committed to memory. At the very least, clean all of the contacts and verify the integrity of the wires looking for any obvious breaks.If you need anything else shoot me an e-mail and we can trade phone numbers for a call. I am in EST.

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Guest Anonymous

Yes, I've double-checked the cam timing. Both marks are at the proper location, and I've installed the distributor so that the rotor lines up with the distributor housing's mark. I did find one problem: the ground wire for the alternator wasn't attached anywhere. I'm not sure how that'd cause a problem, but I attached it to a timing cover bolt. I checked that the coil is getting power. One of the wires attached to it had 12V, but the other had ~6V. Is that right?

Anyways, I took the coil-distributor wire off and held it to a ground. I heard it clicking as it arced, so I assume the coil is OK.

I've cleaned all contact points inside the rotor and cap with contact cleaner and a file. The problem must be in there somewhere or the wires. I've got to get new plug wires now anyways, since I just broke one out of the boot.

I'm thinking about going ahead and just getting an electronic ignition system, and forgetting it. I'm gonna go down to a performance shop that sells CraneCams stuff, and see what they have in stock. It sounds like the XR3000 would be my top choice, or the XR700.

I've got a Bosch blue coil now, does that make any difference?

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Guest Anonymous

coil6.jpg

I now have a red coil with a red coil ballast resistor.

Did you replace the condensor? A bad condensor will cause the car not to start

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Guest Anonymous

Well, the performance shop was worthless. They had no idea what the cost of 'shipping' would be, nor when they might get it. I have no idea why you'd have to pay shipping, but ah well. I might as well go with Jeg's or summit via express mail if I go that route.

I haven't replaced the condenser yet, my good parts store is closed on Sundays. I'll get a new cap and rotor from them tomorrow, too. I did pick up a set of Accel universal 8mm plug wires from the performance shop, and spent a while putting those together. I'm now much more confident in the plug wires, but still no spark.

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Guest Anonymous

Well, I picked up a coil, condenser, points, cap, and rotor today. $55 total and all were in stock at Hawaii Import Parts. :D

The big surprise is that the rotor doesn't look anything like the one on my car. I bugged them to try to find one that looked like mine, but they said this was the only kind that fit any of these type of cars.

My car doesn't have a vacuum advance, so I had thought that someone had upgraded the distributor to one from a ti or tii before. But they both take the same kind of rotor....

Anyways, this new rotor looks like it would perform much better than the old one. I'll take pictures later for comparison, but it'd be a real struggle for the spark to get from the rotor to the cap in my old setup.

Not only that, but the notch aligning the rotor is 180* degrees opposite the contact, whereas it was a strange angle on my rotor. I bet that'd prevent me from ever getting getting the timing correct with the factory marks.

So, when I get home at 6, I'll go ahead and put everything back at #1 TDC, put in new points, new condenser, set gap, put on new rotor aligned with timing mark, new cap, and new coil, and it better start up this time. Since the coil was cheap enough, I just wanna go ahead and put on a new shiny one. I wanna start fresh with everything and get this thing running, instead of diagnosing every little piece. Well, hopefully I'll be cruising tonight. :D

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