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AHAHAHA!!!! ITS ALIVE!!!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

After sitting for about 2 months i finally was able to install the starter it needed yesterday. Then, while i was at it, i decided to do the plugs, cap, rotor, wires, points, and condensor as well. Im so proud of myself!!! I GOT IT RUNNING AGAIN!!!

Cheers,

Jonas

PS: Sorry for the enthusiasm here, its just been a while, and that really built up my confidence!

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Guest Anonymous

On its maiden voyage, i kept on hearing it backfire (possibly through the carb?) What did i do wrong? Should i readjust the points on it?

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Guest Anonymous

tn_enginebay04_JPG.jpg

URL: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/megasquirt.html

Set the points (measure the dwell with a meter, the .016" gap spec is really just to get it started). You want the dwell to be 58-62 degrees.

Backfiring out the intake can be the ignition timing, bad cap/rotor/wires/points, or can be an overly-lean mixture. Concentrate on the dwell/timing settings first.

You can set timimg mostly by ear - at idle, advance it until the engine starts to sputter, then back off a bit for a smooth idle.

You have to tweak timing, mixture, and idle speed iteratively since they all interact. Typically, the best setting for mixture and timing is what gives the highest *smooth-running* RPM. A vacuum gauge (very cheap to buy) is very helpful since the best timing, mixture, and idle speed settings correspond with the highest vacuum at your target idle speed.

If the idle is still rough after all that, make sure your valve clearances are properly set. Must be done on a stone cold motor, the spec is .006" to .008" - I go for .007. Too tight is worse than a little loose, but bang-on is best. The more even you get them, the smoother the idle will be.

This is the broad strokes and personal preference - the Haynes manual has all the steps well covered.

If it still backfires, look for vacuum leaks, or maybe a malfunctioning accel pump in the carb.

regards,

Zenon

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