engine and drivetrain 5 speed transmission test?

[Guest Anonymous]

On 3/19 Barry A suggested that to check out a tranny, you should put an electric drill on the output shaft to duplicate coasting with clutch disengaged. This seems correct to me but my half inch Craftsman drill won't fit on the output shaft. Any ideas of how to connect? And you would turn counter clockwise as you face the back of the transmission? Right?

[Guest Anonymous]

That was my post he was refering to and I had the same cituation. The rear output shaft is greater than 1/2 inch, so I don't know what drill he was refering to. I don't know of any with larger chucks )maybe I need a Charles instead of a Chuck?). And yes, the output shaft does spin counterclockwise. I just put it in each gear and turned the input shaft to check for slop...not that I knew that I could detect a problem that way. It sure does look good all cleaned up anyways. One other thing, what conversion kit do you guys recommend? 2002Haus?? Aardvark??

[Guest Anonymous]

The whole "bench testing" thing sounds a bit fishy to me as a whole. You couldn't take into account lateral loads - and even good gearboxes can be LOUD when they're on the floor of your garage - not under steel, foam, carpet, and shiftboots!

If this is of any interest - I've had many cars with noisy INPUT shaft bearings. The kind that make noise when the car is in neutral and foot off the clutch parked. Makes an E30 sound like it's got marbles in the engine!

Wonder if the INPUT shaft would fit on the drill - and over the shrieking drill - would you even HEAR the bearing?????

WARNING! If you were to try it - make sure gearbox is out of gear - or keep fingers AWAY from output flange!

My advice - be mellow....trust your fellow FAQers and buy local from the message board. Karma will ensure you a good unit.

Paul

[Guest Anonymous]

You have better leverage trying to spin the internal rotational mass with the input shaft then you do the output shaft, that's what the gear ratios are for! A 1/2" chuck has a better chance of fitting the input shaft anyway.

I would just check all the gears using a screwdriver in the selector rod to see if they engage easy by hand.

[Guest Anonymous]

very nice, complete and all parts painted. i promptly bead blasted and repainted them with por15 as i dont know what he uses. daves very helpful and will walk you thru questions on the phone. his instruction book is clear and concise

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)

[Guest Anonymous]

5 speeds. The primary purpose in testing in this manner has been to check for bad syncho's (particularly between 1st & 2nd), not so much to check for bearing noise.

The drill used is a HUGE Milwaukee industrial right angle drive 2 speed, 1/2" unit with a very large chuck that's just big enough to fit over the guide pin on the output shaft (this thing is at least 18 inches long, weighs close to 10 lbs, and generates enough torque that it feels like it's going to yank your arms out of their sockets if it stalls). The torque required to spin the transmission's internals doesn't load the drill much - running at 1250 rpm, the drill's motor is pretty quiet.

The thinking behind the checking proceedure is based on function - under normal conditions, when a transmission is being shifted the output shaft is "under load" (i.e, being turned by the rear wheels) and the input shaft is essentially disconnected from the engine (i.e., clutch disengaged).

Checking shift and synchro function with a power source connected to the input shaft would be essentially the same as disconnecting the driveshaft from a transmission that's in the car, starting the engine and shifting the trans with the clutch engaged (a secondary factor is that the transmission output shaft is well supported internally, while the input shaft is intended to be supported in the crankshaft pilot bearing when it's under load - hanging a power connection on an unsupported input shaft could put excessive side loads on the input shaft bearing).

With one exception, the transmissions that checked out using this proceedure have all shifted ok and been quiet when installed.

[Guest Anonymous]

I am planning on building an adaptor from a half inch driil to the output flange. half inch rod onone end and three pins to fit the output flange. If it works i will let you know.

[Guest Anonymous]

(nt)