Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Hood issue that perplexes me, se pics.


Recommended Posts

I am trying to install my hood latches and release handle to get things locked down for the road portion of this adventure and the pics below is what I have.  Engagement of the rollers on the hood is not even close.  The ramps on the hood are fully forward, the rod ends are at the limits forward, and the hood to door clearances are goodish.  Why am I not even close.  How could this body be so jacked?

IMG_0873 2.jpg

IMG_0875 2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you adjusted the cockpit lever? Is the cable too tight? Rollers should be more down & forward when hood is ”unlocked” from the lever. I think.

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My locking bar ends sit pointed straight forward when unlocked. When you rotate the lever to lock, the arms swing down.

 

They don’t swing up onto the ramps, when the hood is fully closed … though it might seem like they work that way they don’t. ;)


added: my ramps sit near full up (bottom of slots).

Edited by visionaut
ramps

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/10/2024 at 7:27 PM, Polymerjohn said:

I am trying to install my hood latches and release handle to get things locked down for the road portion of this adventure and the pics below is what I have.  

Did you have the hood removed at some point time and installed back now? I ask because hood seems to be in bind. Do you have pictures of hinges to the hood and to front brackets attached?

 

Are you sure "ramps" are in right positions? 

IMG_6799.thumb.jpg.05b9c3add0e67c88ddee9aac9533003b.jpg

 

Edited by Buckeye
added picture

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help on this.  Attached are some pic to help assess.  Even if I move the hood forward and both doors.  I still see how I am so far off the ramp engagement.  I have been thinking that I am so far that I need to fabricate extended ramps that will engage the hood rods.  All the slop available for adjustment has been used up and I am still far from engagement.  Moving the doors and hood forward is only about 1/8" at best.  Still not enough, in my mind.  I will get after it this weekend and any help or suggestions are welcome.

 

John in OK

IMG_0880 2.JPG

IMG_0882 2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I see is that the bolts holding the hood support legs are in backwards preventing the leg from rotating. These bolts need the head and shoulder on the outside along with the arms.

hdup1.JPG.a5602172ad03da6bb01dc0920aa73f20.JPG

 open-uri20190722-7799-1031ody.?1563832029

Edited by Son of Marty
  • Like 1

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both of the legs fold forward.  My car does not have the over-tang on the top bar that catches the bottom bar as seen in the photo posted by Marty.  This weekend I will make the changes to match the picture in Marty's post the best I can.  I still don't have a solid solution to get my hood latch rod to engage the ramps on the hood.  This weekend my plan is to move the hood to rod roller engagement position and go from there back to the door and fenders as needed.  I do realize this could get "ugly" and frustrating.

 

Polymerjohn in OK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hood closed i think it could be 3 mm or so more forward.

Hood supports... something is off there. Looks like top part of the legs are missing the tip with short 90 deg bends (that stops joints over extending).

 

Does the hood behave if you remove that hood support/spring thingie?

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hood only needs to be forward enough so the roller arms (in their forward pointing unlocked position) pass by just in front of the angle plates. In the ‘slot’ between the angle plates and the horizontal cross-hood seal.

 

The angle plates need to be near their upmost position on the hood (exposed slots at top) so that the roller arms can reach them to press down on them.

 

When you rotate the lever to lock, the roller arms need to rotate downward from their unlocked pointed-forward state. The rollers then press down onto the tops of the front wings of the angle plates to retain the hood.

 

 

If you’re unconvinced the roller arms rotate downward onto the angle plates (mistakenly thinking they roll UP the angles), take some measurements.

The height of the roller arm extending forward over the flat fender top is approx. 3.2” above. When the hood is closed, the lower forward edge of the angle ramp sits about .75” over the same flat fender top. The arm has to go DOWN to engage the ramp sitting under it…

 

Tom

Edited by visionaut
typos
  • Like 2

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Visionaut explained the function really well above. I think problem is about understanding how it should work because I don't see anything that much wrong in the pictures of OP.  Just to add that to lock the hood down the lever in cockpit is pushed down and forward. In pictured situation it should be pointing back. So - nothing like other cars.

 

The stop buffer missing on left side and the spring levers to hold it up should be fixed for perfect operation but locking is separate issue from them.

  • Like 1

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Polymerjohn said:

Both of the legs fold forward.  My car does not have the over-tang on the top bar that catches the bottom bar as seen in the photo posted by Marty.  This weekend I will make the changes to match the picture in Marty's post the best I can.  I still don't have a solid solution to get my hood latch rod to engage the ramps on the hood.  This weekend my plan is to move the hood to rod roller engagement position and go from there back to the door and fenders as needed.  I do realize this could get "ugly" and frustrating.

 

Polymerjohn in OK


the legs need to fold backwards. Fix that before bothering to adjust anything else. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, visionaut said:

The angle plates need to be near their upmost position on the hood (exposed slots at top) so that the roller arms can reach them to press down on them.

If when the hood clamp lever in the cabin is rotated down and the rollers are also rotate down, the angle plates need to be low enough for the roller to pass the front of the angle plate and roll on top of the angle plate.  The rubber bump stop should be raised as needed to let the angle plate to be lowered.

Edited by jimk
  • Like 2

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a starting point, try setting the bottom edge of the angle plates even with the horizontal fold in the under hood structure that the angle plate bolts to.

 

Then set the stopper heights at the trailing edge of the angle plates to approx 1/4-1/3” below the face of that fold.

 

That should put the closed lower edge of the hood close to horizontal, ideally matched up in parallel to the horizontal crease along the outer top of the fender (sitting about 1/4-1/3” above said crease so the hood waist trim lines up at the door).

 

Then tweak the stopper heights to adjust the height of the rear edge of the hood.

And if necessary tweak the angle plate heights in their slots to adjust the closure tension of the rollers on the plates when locking.

 

Tom

  • Like 1

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...