How to disassembly the Shif rod for new Seal

[Jorge Silva]

Hi guys,

 

I'm doing the flex disc replacement as well as the transmission mount (already ordered the E21) and I detected 2 leaks: reverse switch and shift rod.

 

The reverse switch is very easy and straightforward but I'm stuck on the shift rod. I have the transmission in the car in my garage and working under the car is really tough. Nevertheless I'm stuck in this point (see picture attached). What now? I've removed the metal stripe and found a kind of hole with a metal piston (sorry i dont know tbe techinal name). And i've tried to hit that small piston from the bottom hopping it would pop-out on the top but it didn't move at all. Is this the right procedure?

I would like to avoid to disassembly the remaining shift components as it is really hard to work underneath.

Any tips how to separate the parts so I can replace the seal?

 

Many thanks!

[Jorge Silva]

[tech71]

Yes thats correct procedure.

Thats the retaining pin, tap it out with a hammer and punch.

Sometimes they will just push out.

Edited May 18 by tech71

[TobyB]

The pin, in theory, should fall out.  Don't hit that shaft very hard, as it can bend pretty easily.

 

Try wiggling the 2 parts, and also push it forward against the transmission a bit-

there's supposed to be a compressible puck in there that pre- tensions it backwards

against the shifter.

 

What'll happen is that the pin will get a ridge worn into it, and then it will bind against the hole.

I've never had them very stuck when they weren't rusted- constant mild pressure and wiggling 

usually does it.

 

If it doesn't, try something like a clamp that will press against the shifter itself, not bend the shift rod.

 

hth

e

 

[Jorge Silva]

Thank you all for your help and suggestions. I will give it a try later today. 

 

Just some more question,

 

1) can the pin be removed in both directions or only from below or from the top?

2) in case I disconnect the surrounding shift parts from the input shift shaft itself, it is possible to rotate the shift shaft so I can have a better access to the top part of the shaft? Or the pin hole always is in vertical position? (because I cannot see the hole on the top as it is right below the tunnel.

3) How much can I lower the tranny to allow better access?

 

Sorry for the rookie questions. Many thanks.

[TobyB]

1 I think either way- if there's 20 mm clearance above, you can push it up.  It only needs to clear the 

inner shift shaft that goes into the transmission.

2 nope- the internals of the transmission hold it vertically.

3 until the exhaust holds it up, or the distributor cap hits the

firewall, whichever comes first!

 

hth

t

 

[tech71]

So its been a few days.. did you get the pin out? Dont leave us hanging.

[Son of Marty]

29 minutes ago, tech71 said:

So its been a few days.. did you get the pin out? Dont leave us hanging.

Yeah, waiting for the pin to drop.

[Jorge Silva]

Made it 5min ago! It was really stuck but I managed to get it out after removing the shift linkage and put something between the shaft and the tunnel to avoid bending the shat so i could hit the pin out. Thank you for the tips.

 

Now I'm moving to try to disconnect the propeller shaft from the final drive soni can replace the center bearing, but I'm again stuck because the nuts are really tight! Any tips for that?

 

Many thanks!

[jimk]

A long pry bar thru the u-joint to keep the shaft from turning while you struggle withe the nuts.  I use a box end wrench with another interlocked to the other end of the wrench for leverage.

[Jorge Silva]

On 5/22/2023 at 7:51 PM, jimk said:

A long pry bar thru the u-joint to keep the shaft from turning while you struggle withe the nuts.  I use a box end wrench with another interlocked to the other end of the wrench for leverage.

Thanks. I removed the first 2 without too much trouble and then I needed to leave penetrating oil during 2 days in the other 2 and it worked.

 

Now the last nightmare is to undo the nut (not bolt) that links the 2 halfs of the shaft together. I don't have a tool for that, so I'm guessing I'll drop it in a specialized garage and let them handle it. (Picture)

 

Almost 50years old and the shaft, center support bearing, guibo and trans mount were never replaced. (Some pictures attached as well)

 

[scanner]

Here’s how I managed it, holding down the prop shaft with the weight of a car using angle iron and a pipe wrench, a 24mm ring spanner (wrench!) with some leverage and a tyre iron wedged in there to stop the wrench slipping off, penetrating fluid and heat. It was a mission but do-able, good luck