Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Horn stopped working, clunking/clicking noise now


Pablo M

Recommended Posts

Apologies for all the questions.
Don’t know why but I was surprised the horn on my car actually worked when I got it last October. the other day I was driving it around and no horn. 
 

Tonight I was pulling the turn signal stalk and noticed the horn ring loose. In my research found that it’s held in place by the upper and lower steering column surround. Ok. I also noticed the pin sticking out, presumably that touches the metal on the ring. 
I touched the pin to the ring and tried the horn. Under that condition I could hear a clunking sound (sounded more than just a clicking) coming from where the horns are located. Reminded me of a relay sound, but louder. 
 

any suggestions how to get horn working? 
 

image.thumb.jpeg.47d5411b607437de545d64ee7c7c1d59.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.843fa529b46f7a1c69bdc0e37d32245c.jpeg

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pablo,

Your whole steering wheel looks suspect!

 

Step #1:  With ignition "on", ground the Brown/yellow horn wire. Do you get a honk? If yes, go to Step #2. If no, check the horn relay and wiring to the horn(s).... especially the ground wires!

 

Step #2: Do you get continuity between the plunger button and the steering wheel when you push the horn contact(s)? If yes, go to Step #3. If no, clean steering wheel horn contacts and button.

 

Step #3: Make sure the horn contact button is in contact with the slip ring at all times (turn steering wheel to each stop to test).

John

 

1976619129_Fuse6.thumb.jpg.479a03e12753fd4b89a05c70c2de298d.jpg

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And...run a jumper wire from the + terminal on your battery to the trigger terminal on the horn relay (terminal 86) and listen for a honk.  If you hear a normal honk, then the problem is with either the power (+) feed to the relay, the relay itself, or a weak ground (the horn button). 

 

If you hear the wounded moose sound, then you're gonna have to remove the horns and temporarily connect 'em to a + and - power source with jumper wires, and turn the little adjustment screw (or bolt head) on the back side (or top, depending on the horn itself) until it gives you a proper honk.  Then reinstall and test again. 

 

My suspicion is that if both horns are weak sounding, then there's an electrical fault somewhere upstream that's not allowing full power to the horns themselves.  

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to contribute, this happened to me a few months ago, and the issue was corroded positive and negative lines on the horns.

 

I renewed the spade connectors on them, and got the horns working again, but then shortly after, the horns burned out.

 

So I picked up a pair of Hella Horns off Amazon, and everything is working again.

  • Like 1

'72 Metallic Malaga 2002 with a '73 M10 | Dual Weber DCOE 40s | E21 5spd and LSD | Pertronix II

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/31/2023 at 11:07 AM, John76 said:

Pablo,

Your whole steering wheel looks suspect!

 

Step #1:  With ignition "on", ground the Brown/yellow horn wire. Do you get a honk? If yes, go to Step #2. If no, check the horn relay and wiring to the horn(s).... especially the ground wires!

 

Step #2: Do you get continuity between the plunger button and the steering wheel when you push the horn contact(s)? If yes, go to Step #3. If no, clean steering wheel horn contacts and button.

 

Step #3: Make sure the horn contact button is in contact with the slip ring at all times (turn steering wheel to each stop to test).

John

 

1976619129_Fuse6.thumb.jpg.479a03e12753fd4b89a05c70c2de298d.jpg

 

 

Mine is wired like the "better wiring" diagram, although I didnt find the in line fuse. I also am missing the Right Horn completely. I have one in spares so I'll try hooking that up. Are the two horns actually different? 

The plunger/contact button appears to catch only the inside edge of the metal ring on slip ring. It appears to be in constant contact. 

 

 

On 1/31/2023 at 2:06 PM, Mike Self said:

And...run a jumper wire from the + terminal on your battery to the trigger terminal on the horn relay (terminal 86) and listen for a honk.  If you hear a normal honk, then the problem is with either the power (+) feed to the relay, the relay itself, or a weak ground (the horn button). 

 

If you hear the wounded moose sound, then you're gonna have to remove the horns and temporarily connect 'em to a + and - power source with jumper wires, and turn the little adjustment screw (or bolt head) on the back side (or top, depending on the horn itself) until it gives you a proper honk.  Then reinstall and test again. 

 

My suspicion is that if both horns are weak sounding, then there's an electrical fault somewhere upstream that's not allowing full power to the horns themselves.  

 

mike

Ran the jumper and got a spark at the terminal of the relay. That's it. Also note its wired per "better wiring" layout in diagram above, so terminal 30 has direct connection to positive, 86 only one wire.  When the horn worked it sounded fine. Now its just nothing, except when I directly pushed the slip ring onto the back of the steering wheel. Then only a click/clunk. 
I'll have to look at it in more detail this weekend.

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Mine is wired like the "better wiring" diagram, although I didnt find the in line fuse.

Alternate plan is to run the Red wire from the horn relay #30 to the fused protected side of fuse #1 (on square-light cars).

This is a 16A fuse for the lighter, so even if you smoke and honk at the same time, you will be safe (from blowing fuse, not smoking).

The second horn is optional. Usually, the pair includes a Low tone (335 Hz) and a High tone (400 Hz) to produce a very loud and piercing sound which is ideal for waking up drifting drivers looking at their laps (phones).

The "better wiring" diagram avoids stressing the ignition switch by powering the horn(s) or any other high-current accessory directly from the battery...ideally through a dedicated fuse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok interesting development. 
tonight decided to drive the car around town, doing errands. Trying to drive it more to shake it down a bit since it sat so long before my ownership. 
 

Started the car and backed out. I hadn’t moved 5 feet and horn started going off lolol. As soon as I turned the wheel it had started but wouldn’t turn off. Kept shutting it off and restarting the motor but every time I turned the key to ON it went off again hahaha. Had to pull fuse 12. 
 

guessing the steering wheel contact is making constant contact now. Seems to work just fine now. Only thing I will check later is if the steering wheel buttons turn it on. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Pablo M said:

guessing the steering wheel contact is making constant contact now.

Good guess.  From your original picture there's a little bit of bare wire peeking out where the plunger is pressed into the steering wheel hub.  Since the horn circuit is a grounding circuit (that plunger/wire in the steering wheel actually grounds the whole horn circuit) it's grounding all by itself 'cause a bare wire is touching a ground and completing the circuit.  Either that, or one of the horn button pushes is stuck and making contact.  

 

mike

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...