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Insight needed into a shaking issue.


Scottjeffrey

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Hi, I have a 1974 base which I have restored/rebuilt over the last several years with my own two paws. It drives and operates perfectly with one exception. At about thirty miles per hour there is a slight to moderate 'shaking vibration' in the steering wheel. A mechanic I visited, took it out for a lengthy drive. He called me up to come over to his shop and had the car up with someone at the wheel getting it up to 30 with the rear wheels spinning. He showed me and had me feel the vibration where the drive shaft center bearing, mounts and said he believed the drive shaft need balancing. I took it out and had a driveline shop rebalance it and put in new u joints. By the way, new steelies and tires, very recently balanced and shake was there before the new wheels and tires too.

I trust him, a very decent and competent guy. I put in back in today with a new guibo. My first several rides had me saying it's fixed, later, its much, much better; almost perfect and a later ride on a different road, it felt close to it did before taking out the driveshaft. The entire steering system and suspension front and back is new. Almost zero free play in steering wheel ( It was adjusted incrementally).  Any thoughts on what the heck is wrong. Everything is perfect except this and I need to fix this before I say, Thank you so, so much for any thoughts you might have. A very happy holiday to you all.

Warmly Yours,

Scott in Fort Lauderdale

IMG_0660.jpeg

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Nice car and keep up the good work!!

 

Edit......You mentioned steering wheel vibration perhaps you should look into that first with your indy shop tech...!  I concentrated on the driveline since you did alot of work there.

 

(1). When you replaced the guibo/driveshaft did you remove the steel band that compresses it if not you should check nose of driveshaft for serviceability.

(2). Ensure are all nuts and bolts torqued to spec @ guibo joint.

(3). While things are kinda loose preload center bearing rubber 10mm forward toward front of car 

(4). Ensure driveshaft is installed under no tension fore and aft by adjusting the rear diff bolts on lower rear crossmember to just touch against input flange at differential.

(5). Perhaps inspect all CV bolts for proper torques, upper differential mount bushings and their bolt torques.

(6). Driveshaft to differential input flange bolts and their torques.

Edited by Mikesmalaga72
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4 minutes ago, Mikesmalaga72 said:

Nice car and keep up the good work!!

 

(1). When you replaced the guibo did you remove the steel band that compresses it if not you should.

(2). Ensure are all nuts and bolts torqued to spec @ guibo joint.

(3). While things are kinda loose preload center bearing rubber 10mm forward toward front of car 

(4). Ensure driveshaft is installed under no tension fore and aft by adjusting the rear diff bolts on lower rear crossmember to just touch against input flange at differential.

Hi Mike and thank you for your help.

#1-yes

#2-I tightened them as forcefully as I could while laying under the car. I planned on taking it to my earlier mention mechanic for him to check all fasteners on the lift.

#3-I did pre-preload the center bearing.

#4 No

I am open to doing #4, I suppose I should remove the four bolts between driveshaft and differential, loosen differential mounting bolts, slide it back a bit and then to 'just touching driveshaft"?

#3- Will put it on a lift and check tightness of the eight bolts at the guibo.

Thanks You So Much,

Scott

 

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10 hours ago, Lorin said:

My experience with vibrating driveshafts is that they don’t vibrate the steering wheel. 

Hi Lorin and thanks for your help. I have been wondering about this myself. Can't see how the one could lead to the other but followed the advice I was given after running out of my own thoughts about the vibration/shaking in the wheel. Any ideas, Lorin? Many thanks - Scott

 

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10 minutes ago, tzei said:

Was the shafts pilot bearing renewed?

Was cv joints dissassembled? Are they put back correctly?

Check front cross member & steering box torques.

Shaft's pilot bearing was not renewed. I renewed my cv joints and boots,

and put them back correctly. I will check front cross member and steering box torque. Thank you very much for your suggestions.

Scott

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I'm with Lorin on his comment about a vibrating steering wheel isn't usually caused by a driveline imbalance.  

 

We're gonna presume that the front tires/wheels have been balanced, the alignment is proper, neither front brake is dragging  and there's no play in either tie rod nor the center track rod.  Those can all be sources of what you're feeling.  

 

To eliminate wheels/tires as the culprit, swap front and rear wheels.  If the vibration goes away, then you have either a slightly bent rim, or an out of balance tire...And that can be caused by a lump of mud on the inside of the rim, or even a big stone caught in a tread.  Then go down the list--steering rods, brake drag etc.  

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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31 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

I'm with Lorin on his comment about a vibrating steering wheel isn't usually caused by a driveline imbalance.  

 

We're gonna presume that the front tires/wheels have been balanced, the alignment is proper, neither front brake is dragging  and there's no play in either tie rod nor the center track rod.  Those can all be sources of what you're feeling.  

 

To eliminate wheels/tires as the culprit, swap front and rear wheels.  If the vibration goes away, then you have either a slightly bent rim, or an out of balance tire...And that can be caused by a lump of mud on the inside of the rim, or even a big stone caught in a tread.  Then go down the list--steering rods, brake drag etc.  

 

mike

Hi Mike, Hope all is well! Your presumptions are correct. I have also swapped the wheels around. I guess next I will look for mud, perhaps have them rebalanced. No slop in front end, all components up front are new and recently aligned. I brought it over to my friend's shop this morning. He only works on BMW's and had had many 2002's. I wanted him to check the tightness on the new driveshaft install as I put it in on my back under the jacked and supported car. Not a great deal of room under there. My shoulders are aching this morning, lol. He is going to see what he can see. Thanks for your help as always!

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Scott

 

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2 minutes ago, Scottjeffrey said:


… have them rebalanced…

 


I always found ‘02 front ends — something about 1960’s-designed McPherson struts — extremely sensitive to wheel imbalances. I have no idea if your issue is as simple as that, but… more often than not, I’ve found myself having my ‘02 wheels re-balanced, occasionally twice!

 

When you come back to the tire shop and have freshly-mounted tires re-balanced, I also have the impression that the techs are more focused on getting it right, and not just slapping weights on a rim. Sometimes the shop doesn’t even charge for the re-balance.

 

Anyway, you have little to lose in trying it.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Believe it or not, some tires will actually move a little after being mounted and balanced depending on how much " juice /soap " is put on to help slide the tire onto the rim.   First few braking moments can cause the tire to shift on the rim       After the stuff dries out and the wheels get rebalanced , everything is ok.

 

Thanks, Rick

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