72MetallicMalaga Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 I was jacking up the left side of the car from the front left frame rail and i heard a loud pop. Looks like the frame rail split/cracked? I always thought these were one piece? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzei Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 Clearly fixed at some point. Weld grinded down, went too thin, rust eated some more from the inside. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MetallicMalaga Posted November 12, 2022 Author Share Posted November 12, 2022 You think it would be driveable to a shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodolfo Lasparri Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 If it wasn't for that front weld as well, I'd think you could perhaps drive it otherwise. Given that gnarly front weld and it's location - I'd personally transport it with a flatbed tow and be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech71 Posted November 12, 2022 Share Posted November 12, 2022 (edited) Major major bummer, sorry! I see bad things on that rail, first that fwd weld at the subframe mount is just, well, awful. If the same individual did the repair that cracked, I can understand why it did. Second I see several "spots" along the corner area that are holes, rust holes to be precise. Theres one back near the jack stand, probably a lot of internal rust going on inside. I hope it can be repaired, again, major bummer so sorry. I dont think I would feel ok driving it anywhere. Edited November 12, 2022 by tech71 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MetallicMalaga Posted November 13, 2022 Author Share Posted November 13, 2022 Yeah it went through like a "driver quality" restoration with the 2nd owner (i'm the 4th). I did peel back that flap a bit, and there was some flaky rust underneath. What are options at this point? If the rust isn't too bad, do I have to still swap out the frame rail? Or can I have a good welder/shop cut out the bad areas and just re-weld a metal slab on the bottom of that rail? I'm actually glad I caught it this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech71 Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 (edited) 16 hours ago, 72MetallicMalaga said: Or can I have a good welder/shop cut out the bad areas and just re-weld a metal slab on the bottom of that rail? A good welder/shop can do amazing things but it would take more than a slab on the bottom to fix that. The bottom is no doubt the swiss cheesiest area, sure looks it. The sides may still be solid. That would require a formed U channel fitted/ welded over the outside to actually do anything. The longer the better. The pedal box would have to come out.. Not your average car shop repair, need someone with metal skills and that rail may be too far gone to be cost effective to repair. Edited November 13, 2022 by tech71 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chargin Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 The rails are readily available now from MVP at reasonable pricing, if you get a rail it could be used for a repair part or complete replacement I had mine repaired a few years ago not very pretty but it works and rarely is anyone else under my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markmac Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 Not a body expert, based on some of the work I have seen others do (Sportscar Restoration), it is a pile of work to properly change one (or both) of those out. Kooglewerks sells the rails - a couple hundred each, the labor though is I am sure a killer. I would email Matt at Sportscar Restoration - they know their way around these cars as well as anyone. Not to scare you or bum you out (sorry), link to an album SCR has on a frame rail re-do. It is major friggin surgery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyB Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 Eh, that channel's not so bad. As long as the subframe's not floating around loose- and if it was, the engine would have dropped out- then yes, you can drive it to shops to get some advice. I wouldn't track it like that. The strength is in the vertical inner fender, and that square tubular structure is there to transfer loading to it. It adds some resistance to collapse in a collision, and makes a nice place to bolt the engine cradle (subframe). As to how to fix it: That'll be the call of the shop that works on it. If you were doing it yourself, I'd say get the repair panels, start cutting away the rusty metal, and see how bad it is- then decide how much of the repair panels to use. But any competent shop will do that. You will do well to let them know that the parts are available, and where to get them, and even offer to source them if they want to do it that way- and then bring the car back when the parts come in. That way they know they won't be stuck storing a car they can't finish while some importer somewhere is waiting for a low price to come through from a country that delivers product for a price. t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech71 Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 15 hours ago, markmac said: It is major friggin surgery. It is that, engine/trans/subframe/pedal box out front bumper off seat/carpet/padding/insulation out on affected side hope the floorpan is solid enough to accept new rail, if not repair/replace floor pan Drill out dozens of spot welds, carefully cut through all the tack welds ect. Installation is not plug and play either, new rail has to be fitted properly. 15 hours ago, markmac said: I would email Matt at Sportscar Restoration Definitely need to find a "guy" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MetallicMalaga Posted December 27, 2022 Author Share Posted December 27, 2022 Alright finally started the process of frame rail repair. Opted to go with a thicker gauge steel, and reinforce both rails as well as the front subframe. Might actually end up connecting the front and rear subframe with additional framing at some point, but haven't decided yet. Think it's overkill? 😃 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tech71 Posted December 27, 2022 Share Posted December 27, 2022 8 minutes ago, 72MetallicMalaga said: Think it's overkill? 😃 totally 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowbert Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 Overkill is good. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorin Posted December 28, 2022 Share Posted December 28, 2022 Thats one way to do it. That is a lot of welding wire ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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