Door cards alternative fixings

[PhilC]

I have set about making new door cards. I am super happy with what I have achieved but I have come crashing down with a massive fail on the fixings.

Old card.

New

I have done it this way as my seats are the chestnut colour and I didn’t want to have to re-trim the handle, plus I get to retain the stitching.

Anyway, I bought the correct clips to “screw” into the holes on the back but that did not work too well because, as I later discovered, the holes were too small to fit the clips. I gave myself blisters putting them in and broke many of them. Then when I had them in place they didn’t line up well with the holes in the door and ALL broke. Then to get the broken bits out of the card I had to peel off the edges and restick. By this time I was mightily annoyed.

So I got some classic car clips (green below) but they didn’t work as they were offset once in the hole. So I made new holes so they were lined up to the original hole. They still didn’t work.

With all the messing about I have absolutely mullered the back of the card.

I am now left with two alternatives. Remake the cards or use external screws with a cap to finish off. I can’t face making the card again, it took ages and I think the blue vinyl will be ruined if I try and remove it.

 

So, after this long tale of woe, my question is, if you have used external fittings what have you used and can you post a picture?

Thanks in advance 🙂

 

 

[esty]

self adhesive velcro might be worth a try

 

[HobieDog]

Ufff. Sorry, that must be painful after all the work you went through making the new cards and covers.
 

Sounds like you’re done trying to get the clips to work, but as a final last-ditch effort have you tried filling the buggered holes with an epoxy filler and re-drilling them?
 

How about drilling entirely new holes in the door to accept the clips in a different location?

I’ve also had very good experiences with YKK SNAD fasteners used in a marine environment.  The door card substrate may be too unstable, but possibly worth a shot if your only alternative is putting holes in the new vinyl.  Perhaps coating the door card surface in a layer of epoxy first (and letting it harden) for a smooth and stable surface before sticking the fastener will work. 
 

if external mechanical fastening is the only option, a stainless trim washer and oval pan head screw would look best imho. 
 

good luck - I hate when a nice project goes off the rails at the last step like this.

[PhilC]

1 hour ago, esty said:

self adhesive velcro might be worth a try

 

I like the idea but wonder if it will be string enough to pull the card in tight to the door. Also Velcro is fairly thick and might leave a gap?

 

39 minutes ago, HobieDog said:

Ufff. Sorry, that must be painful after all the work you went through making the new cards and covers.
 

Sounds like you’re done trying to get the clips to work, but as a final last-ditch effort have you tried filling the buggered holes with an epoxy filler and re-drilling them?
 

How about drilling entirely new holes in the door to accept the clips in a different location?

I’ve also had very good experiences with YKK SNAD fasteners used in a marine environment.  The door card substrate may be too unstable, but possibly worth a shot if your only alternative is putting holes in the new vinyl.  Perhaps coating the door card surface in a layer of epoxy first (and letting it harden) for a smooth and stable surface before sticking the fastener will work. 
 

if external mechanical fastening is the only option, a stainless trim washer and oval pan head screw would look best imho. 
 

good luck - I hate when a nice project goes off the rails at the last step like this.

I tried filling the holes but it didn’t really work. I also like the pan head screw look but I was hoping for a less “industrial” appearance as I am trying for the resto mod vibe.

 

keep the ideas coming chaps😁 

['76mintgrün'02]

I vote for buying new cards. These are plywood, which will stand up to moisture better than fiberboard.  Shipping might be expensive, but the cards themselves seem reasonably priced.

 

Door Panel Rebuild Kit at Aardvarc Racing | Recaro Seats and Parts for the BMW 2002.

WWW.2002PARTS.COM

 

 

Tom

[visionaut]

Phil - a bit unrelated, but your originals look like rare Luxe door cards, why’d you abandon them?

 

…and the door panel clips I’m familiar with look like these:

 

[PhilC]

19 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Phil - a bit unrelated, but your originals look like rare Luxe door cards, why’d you abandon them?

 

…and the door panel clips I’m familiar with look like these:

 

Abandoned because they were well past their sell by date and the PO had cut speaker holes in them. Also, I didn't like the door pocket because, basically, you need two hands to get anything in or out of them. Even rarer now 😂

 

Yes, that clip is basically the same as the white one in the pic above.

[tzei]

Green clips looks like E21 clips. A bit tighter than oe whites i believe.

['76mintgrün'02]

I'd also apply some sort of penetrating sealer to the new plywood door panels.

Getting just the right amount of puff into the panels seems like it could be tricky.

 

Can anyone tell me how the plywood panels mimic the bulge under the locking pin?

 

My panels are curly down at the bottom, but I think I'll flatten them back out, as opposed to buying new.  It's been on the list of things to do since I bought the car, but not high on the list.  I don't mind the curl so much.  It matches the thin original carpet nicely.

 

 

[joysterm]

+1 with @'76mintgrün'02,use something that is a lil more stable that fiber board.

 

I made all my door  and rear cards from a marine grade plywood. I am not sure what is available on your side of the pond but I used a 6 mil mahogany (5mm would be a bit better. ) Just take care in creating a template and transfer all the appropriate mounting points, once you are happy with the fit  and clearances. As far as the mounting fasteners, I searched the web to find something with a little longer shank, the OEM hardware did not work for me.

 

Good luck!

 

Here are a few pics:

 

 

 

 

 

[tech71]

From your description it seems you have already answered your question about how to proceed.

If additional tinkering will destroy the vinyl I see no other option except some kind of external attach screws, or just start over completely.

Why fiberboard? original? that stuff sucks.

GRAINGER APPROVED Trim Screws, PK 50 - 5ZDL2|5ZDL2 - Grainger

WWW.GRAINGER.COM

---

Trim Screw, 3/4"L, #10, Phosphate, PK50

 

Edited November 5, 2022 by tech71

[visionaut]

38 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Can anyone tell me how the plywood panels mimic the bulge under the locking pin?

Tom - they just use a v-shaped notch there to clearance the locking pin. You can see it on Dave Varco’s panel you linked to. The IE aluminum panels have a similar notch. It looks like @joysterm made some little bulges…

['76mintgrün'02]

Thanks, Tom.  I'd make bulges too.  I like the bulges.

Tom two.

[visionaut]

2 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Tom two

Now now, you’re just Tom (one) 😄

[PhilC]

I'm not sure what you guys know as fibreboard. We call this hardboard. I have used 3mm. 5mm would be far too thick. Hardboard has more flexibility than ply. We only get one type of ply over here and it's pretty rubbish, none of you hardwood ply that you guys seem to have.

The bulge under the locking pin is part of the metal top to the card.

I picked these up today. Might see if I can find a better colour match.

And take the shine off with a bit of fine sand paper.