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Quick rear hub question


Georges
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I would use a 1/2" breaker bar that's at least 2' long in addition to the above, and maybe a pipe extension (so you can break the socket).

 

In that way, when it breaks loose, you can damage the paint on your fender.

 

Note though, that using the puller you have the arms have a propensity to slip off.

 

Either way, may cause swearing.

 

And when you reinstall it, use some anti size.....

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My version-

pound the stub out of the trailing arm, don't pull the hub off the stub.

So do what you've done, then get the hub to about 600f (IR heat gun needed)

and keep it soaking there for a little (yes, this WILL stink)

and then  WHAIL on the end of the puller.  #3 hammer, minimum.  Really hit it.

Things MAY fly all over.  Wrapping a towel around the puller and tying or

safety- pinning it will certainly help. Once the puller pops off, use a brass drift 

and same large hammer to keep pounding the stub out.

 

It'll come.

 

It may take a WHALE of a lot of WHAILING to get it to shift.  Usually, once it starts,

it only takes some PORPOISE to keep it moving.

 

t

sounds fishy...

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What are you using to het the hub up with?  a MAP torch won't cut it, you need oxy-act with a torch tip for it. You may have to get that hub rosy red before she will move and only with a bolt on or 3 prong puller  AND a big hammer        I have had some where you thought something was going to snap and parts flying all over.   OK to add penetrating oil but it will just burn off mostly and make a stink and lots of smoke, ( makes everyone think that something big must be going on )   Perseverance and a BFH and a BFP

 

Thanks, Rick

 

 

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I like pounding on the stub as well, I screw the nut back on upside down flush with end of the stub to protect the integrity of the threaded area. It is possible to collapse the stub axle into the cotter pin holes and then your thread pitches don’t play nice any more. Remove the nut after it starts moving. Thick aluminum between the stub and pounding device helps minimize damage as well. 
 

Some are tighter than others…

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They're ball bearings, so, yes, if you whack them so hard that they're notchy,

you have to replace 'em.

They're standard sizes, and something like $10 a pop, and if you're in there 

in the first place, it's worth replacing them, just 'cause it's such a poopy job.

Use a significant  amount of grease- enough so there's a puddle in the bottom

of the trailing arm to re- lube them if they get hot.

 

Quote

 get that hub rosy red

 

which will kill the heat treatment.  Holding it at 600f is far safer...

 

...and sometimes you just can't help but kill the stub threads, even with the nut on.

However, re- cutting the threads usually works in mild to moderate cases...

 

t

 

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Having recently done this on two sets of trailing arms & trying multiple methods including an exploded 3-jaw puller...

 

The answer is Heat. Heat is your friend. 

 

After marinating for nearly 2 weeks in penetrant rust spray stuff mine refused to budge- even after destroying said puller (sheared the head off of one of the bolts holding it together) as well as a 2500g steel sledge, bashing into a 1000g copper sledge into the stub ends. 

 

Rebuilt the puller with some grade 8.8 hardware and bought a MAP torch, applied a modest amount of torque to the puller, and set to heating the area of the flange around the stub (but not the stub!).

 

Within 10 seconds, every hub gave way with a satisfying 'BANG', usually to get stuck again. Each flange took a few heat cycles and re-tightening of the puller to come free enough to where I could tap them fully free with a hammer and a "drift". In my case, a socket extension.

 

I'm now about to tighten said hubs today.... And had to borrow this BEAST of a torque wrench from my local shop to do so. 

image.thumb.png.751ffcafc3a5da40fbc800748cc30d29.pngimage.thumb.png.78159b2167cb59a87345b9dc8b468649.png

It makes me giggle.

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