Jump to content

Stock sway bar bushings/rear shock upper mounts


Recommended Posts

14 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

you are supposed to tighten most suspension bits while on the ground

Yes ... I agree with Dudeland.

I seem to remember to snug them up but not tight enough to squish the rubber out much further than the washers.

The cup washers install with the cup out. Also consider flipping the bolts so the heads are down and the nuts are up on top.

This helps keep the threads from being mangled.

 

1834066252_SwaybarLink.thumb.JPG.0585675d9b7bde1bd1d9924c35b3f841.JPG

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, John76 said:

Yes ... I agree with Dudeland.

I seem to remember to snug them up but not tight enough to squish the rubber out much further than the washers.

The cup washers install with the cup out. Also consider flipping the bolts so the heads are down and the nuts are up on top.

This helps keep the threads from being mangled.

 

1834066252_SwaybarLink.thumb.JPG.0585675d9b7bde1bd1d9924c35b3f841.JPG

 

It has been a long time since I was underneath my car, but I always suspected that mine are done up too tight.  The PO was a racer so everything was quite tight on the car. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Dump the rubber, this is one place where urethane is needed even on stock set up. 

+1 on the Urethane suggestion, as in this location their non-compressibility will be a plus, as it allows the sway bar to come into play as soon as a load is applied to it, whereas rubber bushings will compress slightly, causing a delay in the bar's action.  And it won't make the ride any harsher as using Urethane bushings elsewhere in the suspension.  I'd also replace the swaybar mount bushings with Urethane while you're at it....

 

mike

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Dump the rubber, this is one place where urethane is needed even on stock set up. 

 

ooo, for once we don't agree!   The rubber's OK up until you want the thing to really handle,

at which point you're also doing everything stiffer.

With stock (looooonnnnggggg) travels, the rubber conforms enough to not cause

problems.  While you might notice a little improvement in transition, it'll wear, make noise, etc.

 

As to how tight?  Anything that snugs the rubber up a bit is 'enough' to keep it from rattling.

Somewhere I read that you want it to squeeze out enough to match the OD of the outer washer,

and that seems to be a good rule of thumb.  Too tight, and it'll bind, eventually wearing the rubber.

You want the rubber to flex, so the bolt doesn't have to.

 

TLDR:  it doesn't really matter.

 

t

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Somewhere I read that you want it to squeeze out enough to match the OD of the outer washer,

and that seems to be a good rule of thumb. 

A non-intuitive thing:  the washers on each side of the bushing should be installed with the upset edge facing away from the rubber.  You'd think it would be the other way; it isn't.  (note the picture above)

 

mike

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Upcoming Events

×
×
  • Create New...