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Exhaust Issue


SydneyTii
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Interesting fault just developed on my Tii,

The last week it is very slow to pick up in 2nd gear, to add to that when you rev from idle it’s slow to do so, above 2k rpm it’s fine, it idles ok At 950 rpm but it’s “zing” that a technical term is gone below 2k

One standout for me is the the exhaust back box whilst not leaking is noticeably loud/more throaty.

it could be a few things, poor distributor, it has a fairly new old stock Petronix, Kuglefischer lost sync with throttle position because intermediate shaft clamp is loose, it it could just be a leaky or internally collapsed back box.

I do remember my carb 02 being “wholly” (another tech term) when it had a hole in the back box

Fueling is fine, I have a rebuilt kuglefischer pump and it was running well before this.

Any help appreciated. Cheers.

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Missfires are related to poor valve clearances, tuning and vacuum leaks.

I noticed you said a linkage part was loose so I would re index it.

Since it is a Tii I would reset/adjust the throttle linkage to factory specs.

Assure you have proper fuel flow with a clean fuel filter and inspect fuel delivery circuit pump, and lines etc.

Intake fasteners/gaskets to alleviate vacuum leaks.

Check timing and inspect the condition all ignition components. Inspect alternator and battery condition for proper output. Check/adjust valve clearances.   

 

Tii Linkage - Dumb Question - BMW 2002 and other '02 - BMW 2002 FAQ

 

 

 

 

 

Link added.

Edited by Mikesmalaga72
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Yes I am going to reset the shaft to the TB as the idle position for the D Cam looks all wrong, thinking it may just have moved over time due to the clamp not being tight enough, mine is a euro Tii so the firewall and pedal linkages as different from US cars, but it’s a nice little job to resync it all, certainly won’t hurt. I suspect my old distributor as well, I set everything up within the last year as I fitted a rebuilt Kuglefischer, it’s weird because it usually runs perfectly, the biggest difference outside of the running is a somewhat different sounding exhaust.

I plan on doing valve timing as it’s been a while,  I’m pretty sure linkages are ok, but will recheck, I think something has finally failed or is on its way and I’m starting  to lean towards electrical/ignition last time this happened my pertronix was the issue… 

will report back! Thanks all.

Edited by SydneyTii
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10 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

Yes I am going to reset the shaft to the TB as the idle position for the D Cam looks all wrong, thinking it may just have moved over time due to the clamp not being tight enough, mine is a euro Tii so the firewall and pedal linkages as different from US cars, but it’s a nice little job to resync it all, certainly won’t hurt. I suspect my old distributor as well, I set everything up within the last year as I fitted a rebuilt Kuglefischer, it’s weird because it usually runs perfectly, the biggest difference outside of the running is a somewhat different sounding exhaust.

I plan on doing valve timing as it’s been a while,  I’m pretty sure linkages are ok, but will recheck, I think something has finally failed or is on its way and I’m starting  to lean towards electrical/ignition last time this happened my pertronix was the issue… 

will report back! Thanks all.

Vertical shaft with D cam may be worn where it passes thru the coupling and TB bushing.  If the coupling was loose, then that could certainly be your issue.  Also, if the distributor clamp was loose, the timing could be off.

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Well it’s genuinely strange, it’s not happy reving up from idle, in fact messing with it today giving it a couple of squirts of fuel off of the TB injector via my little switch helped it a bit, but give it too much and it wants to stall, it’s weird bit ignition/bit fuel…. But so are many other things, I still feel it’s in the ignition, perhaps my distributor has just past the stage of being useful…. Good excuse for a 123😜
Anyway I intend to do a step by step fault finding approach to see what fixes or proves it… not to many changes at once or I will never find it.

tbh it’s a bit like when my Petronix started to die….

anyway all part of the fun🙄

Edited by SydneyTii
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I knew it was in the ignition 

 

AD79F2FE-1292-40C3-8945-5515CF62FAE3.jpegFitted these covers a few weeks back to try and save my oldish original type HT leads, until I get my e21 heat shield on, that will be happening quick smart now!

They ended up masking the issue.

I routinely checked the plug caps were on ok and all had seemed fine, so I moved onto the next thing.

After going through the injection setup I restarted the car and it still ran like a Dog, I had done the timing when I recently replaced the Kuglefischer pump… anyway as I went to start the car with the hood open I noticed the lead for #2 sitting a bit odd…. 
Then I noticed the burnt sleeve… oh bollocks what now!!! 
Simple the plug cap had come off, maybe I’d just done that fiddling with it…. Nope couldn’t get it on again it went on but then popped right off…. Surely not!!!! Pull the lead and cap off and found a spark plug socket rubber around the plug from a few weeks back, Jesus I feel dumb.

Also these boots pulled the leads and caps onto the exhaust manifold due to the way they fit, plus I didn’t have the leads fixed up by the rocker cover so that didn’t help, total of 3 buggered caps, 1 melted lead… good job..NOT!!!

🙄

Anyway new leads fitted and a booking for the only garage I trust to do the exhaust gasket/heat shield, normally I’d do it but I’m almost sure the car will mock me and crap out a stud!

see I told you it was in the ignition.

 

Edited by SydneyTii
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Btw what are the symptoms of a back box that has internally collapsed? It still sounds very strange. I can’t feel or see a leak but can’t get right under the car, I did notice the resonator is quite rusty now, it is 12 years old though🙄 and I notice when I block the tail pipe it doesn’t stall….. like I thought it would, maybe it is leaking on top…

Edited by SydneyTii
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  • 2 weeks later...

So just in case anyone else has this issue this may help.

After everything the car was lacking power and very hard to start.

In utter frustration I went to re-examine the distributor, as I undid the clip it just didn’t feel right, anyway once I removed the cap I noticed the top of the rotor had wear! So I took it off, pulled the Petronix magnet off and then cleaned everything so it was spotless, I then reseated the magnet making note of where the rotor sat it still looked to high, I twisted the magnet through a couple of cycles and it felt like it seated better and a bit lower, when I replaced the rotor it sat lower, so for good measure I blew out the whole dizzy with compressed air carefully, I remembered chipping the nub on an old rotor when I was messing around months ago, I thought the bit had fallen into the engine bay but I think it was hiding in the dizzy, the twisting of the magnet must have dislodged it and allowed the whole assembly to sit correctly, it now starts instantly and runs beautifully, so looks like I found the issue.

it masqueraded as so many other things plus I had the plug wire and plug issue that I missed it……

Heap big dumb dumb🙄😜

Edited by SydneyTii
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