Jump to content

Tii dying after starter and new linkages


Highnote1
 Share

Recommended Posts

So I replaced the ancient starter with smaller later one reccomended here, left off the black and red wire as recommended. I also took off runner 1 to get to the two small linkages and replaced those with new from probimmer. (Already had done long one from pedal)

 

Got it all back together and car started right up spinning so much faster than before and ran fine…until it warmed up. Surging and finally dying from low rpm. Starts right back up but dies now that it is warm. 
 

Feels like a vacuum leak maybe but I even replaced the gaskets on intake runner to seal it up. 
 

Ideas? Should have just done the starter only so I wouldn’t think it was causing it!

 

one thing at a time!! Rookie move. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the vent line from the throttle body to the vent for the valve cover     If it is really hunting when warm sounds like it is too rich      Check where your tuna can screws are now so you have a reference point and give them a good half turn each way trying it out    Don't be worried that you might mess everything up   hell, it doesn't run now when warm so adjusting it can only make it better.       You did measure the 2 links before putting them in?    Double check your D shaft positioning with the 2 lock screws, is that all set right?       My point is, don't be afraid of making adjustments to get it running, once running you can see where those adjustments are and why to keep it running   

 

Thanks, Rick 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree to check for basics like vacuum leaks, make sure none of the hoses popped off, etc. 

 

You replaced the two shorter throttle linkage pieces---I cannot recall the difference in length between the two, but did you ensure that the 85mm rod was installed in the correct location between the injection pump and throttle body? The original correlation rod has plastic socket ends for greater precision, but these of course are not as durable, so the aftermarket replacements use standard metal socket ends, which could lead to a mixup if the lengths are different (I remember them being quite close).

 

It is possible that your existing correlation rod was misadjusted, so now the correlation between the injection pump and throttle butterfly is off. The fix could be as simple as resetting the basic relationship between the two as described in the factory manual, noting that the D-cam often needs to be at least slightly covering the reference bore for the setting tool. There are many searchable threads about this on the forum. Then set you idle mixture, and hopefully the thing will stay running!

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m pretty sure the two short ones are identical. I measured multiple times to be sure. 
As I slept last night I wondered if I put the lower runner gasket on correctly. It is kind of an odd shape and it seemed like the way I put it on would seal but I wonder if it’s upside down…it kind of has a notch in it. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you measure the old rods you took off? It's possible to get the car running half good with the rods way off... It could be that by putting things "right" in terms of rod-length you have weakened the mixture causing it to be too lean once warmed up. Use the BMW NA manual to reset the mixture, complex but not rocket science.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dlacey said:

Did you measure the old rods you took off? It's possible to get the car running half good with the rods way off... It could be that by putting things "right" in terms of rod-length you have weakened the mixture causing it to be too lean once warmed up. Use the BMW NA manual to reset the mixture, complex but not rocket science.

I thought of that too. Like everything was cool until I messed it up with new parts. Still feel like it’s a vacuum issue on that runner. Metal ones…but still. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Curious why when replacing the throttle linkage rods, intake runners were removed.

 

Do you have the Tii tools?

 

If the old linkage rods were really old & sloppy, will have lock the pump to re-sync the throttle body rod then re-adjust the cam lobe in the throttle body. Takes 5minutes or less. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As others have said, a surging or oscillating idle is a sure sign the idle mixture is too lean. IMHO, the odds of it being a vacuum leak —either because the runner was taken off and put back on, or because a vacuum line, either the little one T-ing off the valve cover vent hose and going to the side of the throttle housing, or the big one from the warm-up regulator got jostled—are way bigger than it being a slight misadjustment of the rod length. If no vacuum leak is found, you can, as you probably know, adjust the idle mixture with the tiny screw in the tuna can. I always remember it, in this world that equates thin with beauty, as "lean is in." So back the screw slightly out (counter clockwise) to make it richer. Tiny changes to the screw make big changes in mixture, and the idle mixture will effect idle speed so the process is iterative. But you probably know all that too. Also, IMHO a second time, the tii tools aren't that big of a deal. I have them and rarely use them. A tight slop-free linkage, adjustment of the amount the cam covers the hole in the tuna can so it doesn't pop on deceleration, and tweaking the mixture so it doesn't hunt at idle is 90% of tii tuning. Unless a PO has bodged the whole thing up.

 

Good luck!

 

--Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone. I had some wrestling down below with the starter bolts to get the original out so my guess is vacuum line somewhere too or I put the gasket on upside down or something. It fit over the bolts fine. Can anyone confirm if there is a right or wrong direction for the lower runner gasket? 

I’ll fiddle more on Sunday. To go back..it ran just fine but had a slow start and some pretty crusty linkages so I bought replacements. First time it’s ever died was after this repair sequence. 🤦‍♂️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since you replaced the starter AND the two front linkage rods, I’m betting you knocked something loose (warmup regulator make up air hose or the bottom KF linkage pivot bracket).  The throttle body is supported by a long bracket that holds the end of the stock starter housing.  The replacement smaller starters don’t need that  extra support.

 

Did you remove the bracket and upon its re-installation somehow NOT get the vertical KF linkage set back into the cup on the KF pump? If not, then your settings are now all out of whack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an update…sprayed carb cleaner around runner and any other suspect areas. No changes. Starts right up, once warm idle surges up and down. All air lines appear to be ok. 
 

I went ahead and double checked the runner just to be sure and all is fine I believe with lower gasket. 
 

I am thinking now, Tuna can just needs to be adjusted because of new linkages? There was enough slop to be weird with new ones?

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Upcoming Events

×
×
  • Create New...