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Thoughts on a "hiccup" my car had today...


sczapiga
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Good evening, 

I thought I'd post on the FAQ since I'm not sure what happened and you all seem to have some really helpful advise and ideas. So here it goes...

 

I had just finished installing new HD struts, brake rotors, wheel bearings and a speed sensor (discussed in another topic) on my 75 and had to take my son and daughter up to an appointment this afternoon around 3 in Novato CA. It was probably 75 ish in Mill Valley, so it didn't feel too warm in the car for the trip but of course I didn't think how hot it would be outside of our fog barrier we have in our town. I parked in Novato where it was around 105 and noticed the car "diesel" for a second before it shut off. I noticed but figured it was poor adjustment of the new 38/38 I had just installed one drive ago. We got some ice cream and started the car back up, which took a second and full throttle to get it to start (flooded feel but kinda normal with my old carb and this one) it ran fine and then after about 20 feet it had a hiccup then died. It kinda felt like air/fuel related because it started back up just long enough to pull into the shade then died. I had noticed a little pool of coolant when we pulled out but the temp never went high and I watch it very closely. When I got the hood open I noticed the coolant hose that connects to the heater core on the driver side was loose and thats where it was leaking from. I've never touched that particular hose connection and it only lost about a small water bottle worth of water. I checked that there was fuel squirting in the carb when I opened the throttle and checked for anything else that looked weird. Nothing? After about 45 min, I tried it again and it started right up and idled just fine. I decided to leave the car and get a Lyft home because I didn't want to break down on the freeway with two kids. Im thinking the coolant was just a loose hose and unrelated? I drove it home about an hour ago and it hauled ass the whole way and ran better than it ever has with no issues. Heres a list of what I just did to the car for some data:

 

-Just installed a 38/38 electric choke carb (almost new, 200 miles or less on it) two weeks ago and only test driven once

-Gasket matched the intake manifold but didn't polish, it still has some texture in the runners

-New Mr. Gasket glass fuel filter and new fuel hose (filter to carb)

-Cleaned ITG filter and re-oiled (yes it was plenty dry and not too oiled)

-Struts, rotors, wheel bearings and sway bar end links (today)

 

Don't know what may have caused it but it was damn hot and I'm thinking maybe a fuel vapor lock? I am really scratching my head on this one and any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks, 

Stephen 

 

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9 hours ago, sczapiga said:

Good evening, 

I thought I'd post on the FAQ since I'm not sure what happened and you all seem to have some really helpful advise and ideas. So here it goes...

 

I had just finished installing new HD struts, brake rotors, wheel bearings and a speed sensor (discussed in another topic) on my 75 and had to take my son and daughter up to an appointment this afternoon around 3 in Novato CA. It was probably 75 ish in Mill Valley, so it didn't feel too warm in the car for the trip but of course I didn't think how hot it would be outside of our fog barrier we have in our town. I parked in Novato where it was around 105 and noticed the car "diesel" for a second before it shut off. I noticed but figured it was poor adjustment of the new 38/38 I had just installed one drive ago. We got some ice cream and started the car back up, which took a second and full throttle to get it to start (flooded feel but kinda normal with my old carb and this one) it ran fine and then after about 20 feet it had a hiccup then died. It kinda felt like air/fuel related because it started back up just long enough to pull into the shade then died. I had noticed a little pool of coolant when we pulled out but the temp never went high and I watch it very closely. When I got the hood open I noticed the coolant hose that connects to the heater core on the driver side was loose and thats where it was leaking from. I've never touched that particular hose connection and it only lost about a small water bottle worth of water. I checked that there was fuel squirting in the carb when I opened the throttle and checked for anything else that looked weird. Nothing? After about 45 min, I tried it again and it started right up and idled just fine. I decided to leave the car and get a Lyft home because I didn't want to break down on the freeway with two kids. Im thinking the coolant was just a loose hose and unrelated? I drove it home about an hour ago and it hauled ass the whole way and ran better than it ever has with no issues. Heres a list of what I just did to the car for some data:

 

-Just installed a 38/38 electric choke carb (almost new, 200 miles or less on it) two weeks ago and only test driven once

-Gasket matched the intake manifold but didn't polish, it still has some texture in the runners

-New Mr. Gasket glass fuel filter and new fuel hose (filter to carb)

-Cleaned ITG filter and re-oiled (yes it was plenty dry and not too oiled)

-Struts, rotors, wheel bearings and sway bar end links (today)

 

Don't know what may have caused it but it was damn hot and I'm thinking maybe a fuel vapor lock? I am really scratching my head on this one and any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks, 

Stephen 

 

Seems to be going around. For your hot start flooded condition, the use of the Jeep filter and return line cured that for me a number of years ago.  

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Sure sounds like vapor lock to me...remember that never, ever in Germany (except inside a steel mill) does the air temperature reach 105 F, so those Bavarian engineers never really designed their cars to endure such heat.  (Witness stories about early attempts at factory air conditioning on the first 5 series cars).

 

Sounds like your float chamber boiled over just enough to dump raw fuel into the manifold, and cranking the engine pulled it down into the combustion chambers. (there was enough fuel in the accelerator pump plumbing to give you a squirt or two, even with an empty float chamber)  Bet if you had pulled a plug it would have been wet with gasoline.  A high energy ignition system (like a CD system) would have probably fired the plugs, but not a "normal" coil/points (or even Pertronix) system.  

 

Most Weber downdraft setups I've seen and driven will restart almost immediately if they've only sat for a few minutes, but the crank-to-start time increases the longer the car sits.  And that time is also dependent on air temperature; the colder the air, the longer the car can sit before long cranking is necessary.  

 

The coolant loss sounds like a Car Talk Puzzler obfuscator....that was a coincidence...

 

mike

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I don’t have one, who sells the 38/38 compatible spacer?

 

I just picked up some ethanol stabilizer, heat sleeve for lines and the Jeep filter to hook the return back up. 
 

thanks for all the help! We’ll see how it goes. Doing the Faultline 500 and want to make sure it’s sorted;)

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7 minutes ago, sczapiga said:

I don’t have one, who sells the 38/38 compatible spacer?

 

s-l400.jpg
WWW.EBAY.COM

One spacer(5.55mm thick) -fits Weber 38/38 DGS, DGES, or DGAS. Use this spacer for installing your Weber 38/38 DGS, DGAS, or DGES. Weber Carbs distributed by Redline. (1) Spacer for mounting (5.55mm thick) 38/38 Weber Carburetor.

 

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