Twin Weber Problems

[Son of Marty]

Just pop the rod to the interlock joint and with the idle speed screw (you are using one speed screw for the whole setup) backed off is there space between  below the throttle stop that the speed screw would hit if it's run down

Edited September 16, 2022 by Son of Marty

[WhoIsSea10]

11 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Just pop the rod to the interlock joint and with the idle speed screw (you are using one speed screw for the whole setup) backed off is there space between  below the throttle stop that the speed screw would hit if it's run down

You’re asking if the the linkage would could in contact with the idle screw tab should i back the screw out all the way?

[Son of Marty]

That's right, with the throttle linkage disconnected there should by a tiny bit of clearance, I would also make sure the throttle arms are not hitting the carb body anywhere. 

[Son of Marty]

A couple of pictures would help a lot.

[WhoIsSea10]

6 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

That's right, with the throttle linkage disconnected there should by a tiny bit of clearance, I would also make sure the throttle arms are not hitting the carb body anywhere. 

I’ll definitely check. And I’ll get some pictures and/or videos when I get a chance

[WhoIsSea10]

12 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

A couple of pictures would help a lot.

I Want to add that the throttle is a little rougher on a cold start. If I hold the throttle steady around 2000 or so it gives a few pops out the tailpipe, almost like a gallop. Much smoother after warming up but could be ironed out more.

Edited September 16, 2022 by WhoIsSea10

[WhoIsSea10]

 

Quick video. Can’t really tell if its making contact while fully backed out or not. I may loosen the end nuts,  back the idle threw all the way out, and then tighten the nuts and try to get it to close all the way.

 

[Son of Marty]

Yup that's enough. And you have removed the rear idle speed screw?

Edited September 16, 2022 by Son of Marty

[WhoIsSea10]

26 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Yup that's enough. And you have removed the rear idle speed screw?

I actually still have the rear idle screw in but it doesnt make contact with anything. I just kept it threaded in so I wouldnt have to put it somewhere or possibly lose it

[Senna27]

Speaking of twin Weber problems, I purchased a set of new 45 DCOEs from Pierce Manifolds. I had my mechanic install, synchronize and jet them for optimum performance. Then after less than 100 miles, my car started running like crap. There was fuel leaking from the carbs and it was running rich as you can see by the plugs. Turns out the starter valves were seized due to burs on the surface. So he polished them and now everything works fine. 

 

I also don't recommend the Redline soft mount gaskets. They disintegrated in no time. So he machined a set if custom gaskets to replace them.

 

 

Edited September 22, 2022 by Senna27

[Hans]

I gave up on soft mounts. Runs fine with paper gaskets.

[Leucadian]

4 hours ago, Senna27 said:

Speaking of twin Weber problems, I purchased a set of new 45 DCOEs from Pierce Manifolds. I had my mechanic install, synchronize and jet them for optimum performance. Then after less than 100 miles, my car started running like crap. There was fuel leaking from the carbs and it was running rich as you can see by the plugs. Turns out the starter valves were seized due to burs on the surface. So he polished them and now everything works fine. 

 

I also don't recommend the Redline soft mount gaskets. They disintegrated in no time. So he machined a set if custom gaskets to replace them.

 

 

Looks super clean.

 

How do you find the car runs w/ screens over the velocity stacks?

[Senna27]

2 minutes ago, Leucadian said:

Looks super clean.

 

How do you find the car runs w/ screens over the velocity stacks?

 

Thanks...

 

I previously had Uni foam filters but switched to the BBR Filters. I didn't notice any difference between the two types but I didn't dyno them back to back. I mainly didn't like the way the Uni filter on #3 was bent upwards and resting on the brake booster.

 

I did some research on the filters. Here's the gist of it. 

 

Any filter will reduce HP to some extent compared to running wide open. Since running wide open is not an option for most people, you need to use some sort of filtration, whether it's paper, foam, cotton or stainless screens. Paper style filters will filter the best but will also significantly reduce performance, which is why people opt for performance filters. It's really just a case of who's filters reduce the least amount of horsepower and what's the best fit for the environment you're driving in. BBR has been making these screens for almost 15 years for both street and racing applications. Their filters will filter particles down to 100 microns which is a little over the diameter of a human hair.  

 

Hot VWs Magazine did a test on them. They found their filters flow very well with minimal loss in their tests.

 

BBR Filters – My WordPress Blog

BBRFILTER.COM

 

 

[Leucadian]

@Senna27 Really appreciate the detailed response.

 

I have a set of ITG filters sitting on my work bench with stubbier stacks, but I know the fit is going to be tight.

 

I'm going to order a set of BBRs.  Thanks!

[norrinradd]

Found these and use with my 40s. Yeah, wish I had more clearance on #3, too !