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Is this timing chain cover going to leak oil?


Eissmann

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I’ve been doing a gasket replacement job on my timing chain covers. The front of the engine and oil pan was an oily mess. I assumed the leak was coming from the main front seal.  After a lot of wiping everything is much cleaner now. 
I found a crack on the bottom edge of the lower timing chain cover. I am afraid this could be the cause of the leak.  Has anyone had to deal with something like this? Am I going to need to get another cover?

 

4E23833C-FD48-4436-9499-57336DAA5870.thumb.jpeg.5f4acf6ae7d46118bf1f47402a6e9915.jpeg1E13CEB8-4F8C-4BFB-8314-44966B5FB4BA.thumb.jpeg.0dc38e077b93ce2951e4c360ae8ad1a8.jpeg

 

 

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Get another cover, that one is cracked all the way around the bolt hole.

that corner is on the verge of falling off completely.

If you cant scrounge one locally hit me up, just so happens.. see lower pic.

Or check out this one on Ebay

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WWW.EBAY.COM

<p>1967-1985 BMW E21 320i E30 318i M10 Lower Timing Cover Case 2002 OEM Sandblasted. </p><br /><p>Sandblasted Bmw m10 lower timing cover...

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Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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Yup, as it sits, that runs a pretty fair chance of leaking-

or breaking off completely.

 

And yes, I have dealt with that sort of issue by replacement.

 

Welding would work, but replacement is (historically) cheaper.

BMW made a lot of M10's and the lower timing cover's not a 

high- consumption item.  They seldom get cut, unlike the upper cover.

 

fwiw,

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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By the location of the crack, it looks like the cover had been pried off by someone that didn't know a dowel was on that (and the opposite) holes.  The only reason the bolt is larger on that spot is to accommodate the dowel.  The dowel is the size as other dowels on the engine to not have another part number to deal with.

So the bolt doesn't need to be "dogged" down that heavily.  The gasket is a thin paper material as is on other joints where dowel positioning is important.  Tighten the bolt at this location last.

If mine and a different cover is not convenient, I'd grind a v groove on the back side and bottom pan gasket surface and fill it with epoxy.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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I am taking no chances that my cover could leak. I have another cover on the way.  Many thanks to tech71 who helped me source a proper replacement. Mine is a later car ('76) and it still has an air pump with a mount on a stud in the cover.

 

When installing the new cover, do I install the cover and wait for gasket seals to set up before putting in the bolts for the alternator mount and air pump and water pump? Or do all these get bolted on when cover is installed?

 

without the water pump,  alternator and air pump there only 4 bolts remaining to hold the lower cover. That doesn't seem like enough  to hold the cover with even pressure on all the mating surfaces.  
B212E935-395A-4892-A5BB-9E22CAD8660A.thumb.jpeg.191a4963ae840e766e3aa8aa4f57abb3.jpeg

Edited by Eissmann
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Do you have any shorter bolts to go where the alt bracket and water pump go to snug up the cover all round?

If not you can just temp install that stuff until your sealant cures.

I like using this grey silicone on both sides, pretty much the same as Dirko and available most places. Dont need much.

Once sealant is applied  and gaskets are aligned with cover you may have a little bit of gasket sticking out at the bottom. You may want to trim there depending upon the fit.

Be sure to apply a small bead of sealant across the oil pan gasket to cover interface.

Good luck with your project! your cover is on the way

 

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Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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I am going to see if I can find shorter bolts to install the cover then remove and replace those bolts for the brackets. 

My oil pan gasket is damaged at the interface and is getting replaced after I do the timing covers.

Do I put the dabs of sealant in the interface when I re-install the oil pan?

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Put the oil pan on first, apply seal sealant as shown, same for the upper timing cover. Just a dab across the seams

Is your engine still in the car?

IMG_2552.JPG

IMG_2553.JPG

Edited by tech71

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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The engine is still in the car. Oil pan still in place. I have an engine support bar to lift engine for the oil pan gasket job.

 

What is the support web for the chain tensioner piston? 

 

 

Edited by Eissmann
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That pic is confusing, the ball is actually inside the tensioner piston, they get stuck from gummed up oil and the tensioner wont work correctly. Soak it in acetone/laquer thinner whatever, until when shaken, you can hear the ball rattling around inside. You can also press it apart with a vise and 2 appropriately sized sockets and clean it properly.

You also have to bleed/prime it before putting on upper timing cover?

Tried to buy a new one recently... no joy on that, appears to be NLA

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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The ball isn't stuck in the piston.  It's in the end with the cover.  It's a check valve and is what keeps the tensioner solid against the shoe.  The spring is not what keeps the chain tight, it's the hydraulic action.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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