Jump to content

Potential new tii owner questions

Recommended Posts

Hi all - 


I'm looking at getting my hands on a 1974 tii in the next couple months. It has been in a barn for something like 20 years, but ran OK when it was put away. Apparently a charging issue and the Behr a/c crapping out (it lives in Florida) were enough to get it parked. It hasn't run since. 


I know it'll need the fuel system cleaned at a minimum, and maybe just a new tank entirely. My question is with the KFisch pump. 


Assuming it spins freely, is there a go-to source for o-rings and copper washers to re-do the top of the pump? Would you bother? Should I try and get it going first, then deal with the pump as needed? 


I know there aren't a huge number of people doing rebuilds, but have also heard from a couple people that it might not need a full rebuild, as long as it spins freely. Trouble is, even top end rebuild parts seem like they're hard to come by. 


Lastly, supposing the injection system needs more than a freshening, how difficult is a carb swap just to get it moving? 


Thanks for reading. I know these are stone simple questions, but I have to start somewhere. And, if there are threads I didn't find, just post a link. 


Thanks, all. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would top up the oil in the Kfish with fresh and replace the fuel and all fuel filters before use.  Don't worry about seals unless the pump is leaking.


Make sure the belt is in good shape,  not frayed.


I would do 2 oil changes in the engine.  One before initial startup and the next after running for 10 minutes.   But that's me.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a little surprised that, in my recipe, I didn't list replacing the o-rings above the suction valves. It's #6, part number 13511257558, in the realoem link below. These are very likely to leak after a long sit, causing fuel to stream out of the top of the injection pump. The rubber o-ring on that seals the regular valve (#8) to the back of the pump is also a common leak spot, but it doesn't show up on realoem. Matching it at a hardware store has always worked for me. 



Ensure that you have a clean fuel system (INCLUDING THE INJECTORS--taking them to a diesel shop to have them tested for leakage, opening pressure, and spray patterns is money well spent), adjust the valves, put in fresh spark plugs, make sure it's firing on all cylinders and that the timing is in the ball park, and of course change the engine oil and rotate the engine by hand a few times. Gently coax the car back to life. 


There are many threads on the tii's warmup regulator and adjusting the air/fuel mixture by playing with the cam in the tuna can on the top of the throttle body.


You really, REALLY don't want to do "a carb swap just to get it moving." The injection pumps are very robust.


I walk through the sort-out of my '72tii "Louie" in my book Ran When Parked. 






  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...