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74 long block w/ e12 head and high comp pistons


conkitchen

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Price: $1
Location: sac norcal


Description:

Really this is a discussion-albeit I have this engine up for grabs. 

 

It's a motor that is ready to be taken to the machine shop for a refresh. I took it apart to inspect it all and it's good but the bores will need a hone and the crank a polish plus the head needing the usual clean up pass and then ALL new bearings and gaskets.  Maybe even throw in new chains and tensioner stuff etc...  

 

I would call it a parts motor but it's all there minus an intake and one motor mount bracket.   

 

I had it listed pre-covid for $500 and had the typical flakes inquire. 

 

The way I see it:

 

Good 2.0 block                 $100

good crank for polishing  $200

piano piston set               $100  (did not measure but they are I believe 2nd over) 

Connecting rod set           $50
E12 head w/cam               $200
Flywheel 215mm               $50

Oil pump                           $50
Misc everything else         $50  alternator, bracketry, nuts & bolts, plus covers and pan 

 

Makes it by simple math $800.00  

 

So is it even worth the sum of it's parts or just the weight of scrap metal?  

 

 

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

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  • conkitchen changed the title to 74 long block w/ e12 head and high comp pistons

Most of your parts costs seem reasonable to me, surprised you couldn't sell the whole unit for $500 pre-covid too. For those looking for a spare engine with everything to get a rebuild going this would seem like a no-brainer with a rebuildable E12 head.

1973 2002tii Taiga, 2763376 

1969 2002 Chamonix, 1666774

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52 minutes ago, Rodolfo Lasparri said:

Most of your parts costs seem reasonable to me, surprised you couldn't sell the whole unit for $500 pre-covid too. For those looking for a spare engine with everything to get a rebuild going this would seem like a no-brainer with a rebuildable E12 head.

Yeah right? 

I think most people get spooked when it's not running.  

 

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But what do I know

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Rebuildable E12 cylinder heads are useful.

 

However: A used cylinder head which hasn't been measured, inspected for corrosion, cracks, straightness, stripped holes and pressure tested is a gambler. (My experience:  40-50% of used heads are poor or junk, even those which 'ran when parked.') Someone needs to invest the time and money to demonstrate it's truly rebuildable, I don't observe many sellers willing to do that.

 

Add: Complete used engine sales are typically local, given the effort and cost to ship.

 

I'd buy the block, maybe the crank, if you were local. -KB

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If you took it apart to inspect it then it sounds like it was a simple visual inspection and nobody wants to buy something then REALLY inspect it themselves with micrometers and other measuring tools only to find that it is worn out or nearly so.  I would say your only error was not measuring the pistons and bores and crank journals when you disassembled it and showing those numbers for each cylinder compared to spec. This is only the bottom end.  I would concur with Ken on the cylinder head.  There is work to be done to convince people of the quality of an item.  Most are unwilling to do so.  When I go to an event like the BayArea02 swap and show people will often remark to me,"Wow! Your parts are clean! A lot of them are beadblasted or replated so they look new! Most all the other stuff out here looks like it was just pulled off the car and left oily or greasy."

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1 hour ago, kbmb02 said:

Someone needs to invest the time and money to demonstrate it's truly rebuildable,

Sure, I get that, however folks still only want to spend the thrifty prices outlined above even after I just spent $500 for the time and money to have it inspected and measured by a machine shop.   

 

Boat anchor it is! 

 

Going in the dumpster! 

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

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15 hours ago, conkitchen said:

So is it even worth the sum of it's parts or just the weight of scrap metal?  

IMHO, its only worth the sum of its parts when and if you managed to sell said parts individually.

Putting it all in a box and asking the "sum" wont work in most cases.

Your pre covid ask of $500 was reasonable but unfortunately, only to a very small group. IE: experienced or perspective engine builders with in reasonable driving distance to you

Another problem is that most experienced  engine  builders usually have a few core engines already laying about. Pretty small market niche ?

Edited by tech71

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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If you're able to just to just do the block then I may be interested to have a spare block.  I would take the whole lot but if you are who I think you are I bought an E12 head (no internals)  from you at the swap and show.  Haha sorry I'm not on the FAQ too much.  I completely understand that you may not want to tear it down to sell it piece by piece.  But if it comes to that point I wouldn't mind spending some time to disassemble it for the short block (not too hard as you know).  So just keep me in mind

 

-Mo

 

P.S. Love the boat anchor

Beast 02- '74 2002
Beast 35- '11 135i
The Twins!!!
O=00=O

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And if @Dabliz02 took the block, perhaps someone else would take a chance on an E12 head. The head was cast September 1975 (9? nubs surrounding “75”), so it was either a factory replacement head or swapped from a 1976 model ‘02, California version. I’d guess the head arrived on the scene about the time the engine was bored to 90 mm. And someone — qualified or unqualified to make that judgement — thought it was better than the one it replaced! How’s that for high praise? ?

 

It would be a shame to see this go to the smelter.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Post refresh what kinds of compression you talking?  I’ve got a cam i could throw at it but I’m looking for “more than stock” compression…. Would this work?  I’m in the Bay Area and ideally we could meet in the middle and i could drop it off at a shop on the way home!  My engine needs a refresh but “swap in a new one” seems better than “pull, fix, reinstall”.  

 

Thanks

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