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A series of dumb questions.


M3This
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As noob I have a few random questions that don’t really fit anywhere. 
 

1) is the dent in the rear subframe normal?

 

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Next I was taking the hubs off the front struts and while the driver side hub and rotor slid right off the passenger side doesn’t want to come off. Any recommendations on how to get it off?

 

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lastly the passenger side had 3 bolts holding the steering link (I think that’s what it’s called) in place but the other side seem riveted in place. Do I need to drill these out?

 

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Thanks for any help in advanced!

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Drill those rivets out to replace the ball joint. Your PO must have replaced one side only, I guess. You will bolt them back together. You can get the kit from Blunt and proper bolts from Bel-Metric.

 

On the hub, you'll just have to get a puller and winch if off of there. You can try hitting it with PB for a few days, maybe try a heat the hub so it will expand and maybe come off a bit easier. But I'd use a puller first.

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25 minutes ago, PapaG said:

Drill those rivets out to replace the ball joint. Your PO must have replaced one side only, I guess. You will bolt them back together. You can get the kit from Blunt and proper bolts from Bel-Metric.

 

On the hub, you'll just have to get a puller and winch if off of there. You can try hitting it with PB for a few days, maybe try a heat the hub so it will expand and maybe come off a bit easier. But I'd use a puller first.


Thank you. I go rent a hub puller and see if I can get that to work. 

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1 minute ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

They did stamp a dent there to add clearance where the exhaust runs up over the top, but it looks like it was rubbing on yours for a while.

 

IMG_1400.JPG

 

Tom


If I’m going to send the subframe out for powdercoat do you think it’s cool structurally? Debating on doing that or just buying and adjustable for from IE

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9 minutes ago, M3This said:


If I’m going to send the subframe out for powdercoat do you think it’s cool structurally? Debating on doing that or just buying and adjustable for from IE

 

If you're planning on being low, not sporty low, but actually low, you're going to want to be able to dial out some of the negative camber you're going to get in the back, so you'd want some adjustability regardless.  Sporty low usually isn't too big of a deal.  That's a lie, even sporty low would be nice to be able to dial out some negative camber.  I think, anyway.

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23 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Your problem with the hub is the outer bearing is cocked on the spindle, don't get a puller, push it back down flat and try to fish that bearing out of there once its out the rest of the hub will follow easy-peasy.


would you just use a screw driver to try and flatten it out???

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18 minutes ago, irdave said:

 

If you're planning on being low, not sporty low, but actually low, you're going to want to be able to dial out some of the negative camber you're going to get in the back, so you'd want some adjustability regardless.  Sporty low usually isn't too big of a deal.  That's a lie, even sporty low would be nice to be able to dial out some negative camber.  I think, anyway.


I was going to buy the adjustable parts from IE anyway but was trying to figure out if it’s worth paying someone to weld them on this one or just buy the complete one from IE instead. 

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I am very happy with the IE adjustable subframe. The previous subframe had adjustments welded in but not done properly. You could only adjust it to make it worse. Proper adjustments made a big difference in handling.  

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19 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Your problem with the hub is the outer bearing is cocked on the spindle, don't get a puller, push it back down flat and try to fish that bearing out of there once its out the rest of the hub will follow easy-peasy.

I stand corrected and did not (and still cannot) see that. Good eye there Marty. 

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