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123 ignition no-start on '74 tii


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Hello,

 

So my first real upgrade (after some new tires) on my new-to-me '74 tii that I introduced to the FAQ early this month is a Bluetooth 1-2-3 electronic ignition.  I was pretty confident I got it installed correctly, but when I crank the engine after connecting to the app, the starter just turns over continually with no indication there is any spark.  I made sure not to do anything too dumb like the "Immobilize the device" setting in the app.  I got the engine to TDC for cylinder #1 based on the camshaft flange notch point right to the oil tube above, the cam lobes in the proper orientation on the "backside" for cylinder #1, and the rotor pointing to cylinder #1 for the old distributor.  With the new 123 distributor then installed I have the red wire from the distributor going to the coil positive and the blue wire grounded to the body.  The black wire I didn't connect until after I had done the "green LED light" thing with rotating the 123 distributor CCW until the light just first came on.  I tightened down the distributor, put the black wire to the coil negative (which is a Bosch blue coil), and then put the valve cover back on, spark plugs in, plug wires to the right spots on the 123 distributor cap (as well as to the right plugs) and the high voltage wire installed from the coil to the  distributor cap.  The phone app was able to connect to the distributor after the key was turned to the on position and it took the default PIN code, but I crank and nothing in terms of acting like it might start as I described above.

 

One question though is that my old distributor, which is a 0231-188-002, the correct Bosch replacement part number for the early tii distributor from what I found here, has a male wire spade connector for the condenser--I'll post a picture next.  Last weekend I was figuring out what I'd need to do for the actual 1-2-3 install (clearly I didn't figure it out very well given the current problem) and I was playing with original distributor.  While doing this I inadvertently knocked the wire off connector to the male spade.  With that done I got the exact same situation where it would only crank and never fire.  After much frustration I finally discovered this dangling female connector and felt on the distributor backside that this wire had a likely spot to be connected.  When it was reconnected the car instantly fired up--after all that cranking it should have.

 

For my 123, this female wire connector is dangling again so my question is whether this somehow needs to be wired in with the 123 distributor like it was for the old distributor where it was the magic that let my tii start?  I'll put a picture of that dangling connector as well and if someone could say "yes" or "no" in terms of whether it's OK for that not to be connected, I would greatly appreciate it.  My dangling wire happens to be yellow at the very end where the connector is, but a couple inches above that it's actually a dual black wire-and then it goes into a big wire bundle and I don't know where that goes--along the firewall and to the front driver corner of engine where the battery and voltage regulator is my best guess.

 

Thanks,

Gary

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Here's my old distributor with the connection point for the "magic yellow wire"

 

PXL_20210913_180041935.jpgAnd here is the dangling yellow wire along with the newly installed 1-2-3 distributor (I pulled it out from the plastic wire conduit to show it turning to a double black wire just a few inches from the end):

PXL_20210913_190731232.jpgSo does this yellow/black wire need to be connected somehow (and how) or is it fine just dangling and this not related to whatever my issue is?

 

Thanks,

Gary

Edited by AlfaBMWGuy
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That was another question @Mike G.  I was under the impression that you could just fire it up the first time with no curve selected.  Is that not the case?  Without that selected is it effectively the same as "immobilized" and it will never even send any spark out from the distributor? Or, I guess the better way to say that is that I thought it had some default curve selected.

Edited by AlfaBMWGuy
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Is there any High Tension spark? Check by pulling the centre wire from the dizzy cap and using a gloved hand to hold it 1/8inch from bare metal of cam cover while someone cranks....

If yes then your issue is timing

If no then your wiring of 123 to coil needs to be checked.

That dangling black wire by the coil should not be used...just insulate it and tuck it safely away.

 

 

 

 

 

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@LabphotoIt's all connected back up like it was with the coil--just new connections added for the 1-2-3.  I didn't introduce that into the discussion either.  I originally didn't know those previous connections to the coil were needed.  But, after not getting any green LED light at all from the 123, I eventually figured out that I needed the negative side of the coil connected like it was.  Then reading here on the FAQ I saw that the old positive/red connection on the coil was needed as well related to the tachometer I think--although in terms of connecting to the 1-2-3 and not being able to start, the previous positive connection to the coil didn't seem to make a difference.

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Thanks @dlacey.  That was my initial concern so glad to rule one thing out, even if it's not the immediate answer.  I'll check for spark when I get a chance.  Does anyone else know whether you have to load an initial/default curve through the app rather than just connecting to the app and trying to start it right away?

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From looking at the app away from my tii, it does look like I've got no curve set when I got to the "Curves" screen from the app.  For the "File information" part it says "No curve read."  Then for both Centrifugal curve and MAP curve, there's no data in either the graphs or the tables.  The "Edit" buttons are disabled though, maybe because you need to be currently connected to a 123 distributor to set anything?  So, I guess it still comes back to whether there is some kind of basic default curve that is set that is enough to get your car started/running with a 123?

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